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Full Text 04-2015

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 04-2015

 

Summary of news published in Week 03-2014

 

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THIS week’s news that manmade fibres won further market share from cotton in 2013 should be welcome by supporters of the environment. While several Life Cycle Assessments (LCA) have shown that cotton’s sustainability credentials are less positive than had been thought, these focused mainly on the energy used to grow, harvest, transport and process the fibre. But cotton, even when biologically grown, needs generous irrigation in most areas where it is farmed and the world’s water supply is also finite. So is land suitable for growing food. With some inconvenience, human life will be maintained when the world’s oil runs out but a world without water would be devoid of both animal and plant life. As regards innerwear, at least one, and often several, manmade fibres provide one or more aspects of performance that surpass that of cotton. They deserve to win even greater market share.

Jean-Pierre Adeline

NOTICE 

BECAUSE all of our team and most of our readers will be in Paris from 24 to 26 January to attend the Mode city and Interfilière salons, the next issue of this newsletter will be published on 2 February to cover Weeks 4 & 5. 

Please note that bodywear industry news continues to be published regularly on the “Recent Posts” area of the SIBILintimate home page.

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

FRANCE: apparel consumption slumped in November

FIBRES: synthetics win greater market share

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

INVISTA: competition planned to promote legwear

DOGI: fabric trends for S/S 2016 unveiled

ARCHROMA: advice on eco-friendly finishing updated

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

ORY: Spanish brand files for liquidation

RINGELLA: support for charity announced

S.O.H.: new distributor appointed in the UK

HANRO: product range diversified into yoga wear

WACOAL: integration of Eveden business completed

TRIUMPH: sells men’s branded underwear business

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

MARKS & SPENCER: return to Belgium being prepared

CHINA: foreign e-tailers now fully accepted                                               

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

HANS HORNEMANN: to take key post at Wacoal

ISAAC DABAH: honoured by business newspaper

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

INTERFILIERE HK: details of Trend Forum unveiled

IMMAGINE ITALIA: salon to present over 200 brands

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

UNMENTIONABLES: US Patent Office plays coy

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 BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

FRANCE: apparel consumption slumped in November

 

SAGGING consumer confidence combined with unseasonably warm weather to reduce French consumption of textiles and apparel by 6.4 per cent in November 2014. The figures provided by the Institut français de la mode (Ifm) show that popular price stores suffered most (-13.6 per cent), followed by department stores (-9.5 per cent) and specialized chains (-8.4 per cent). All other distribution channels except home shopping (+0.6 per cent) suffered setbacks.

 

Millesia

Millesia

Unfortunately, the Ifm no longer indicates evolution by garment categories, nor does it now make a distinction between apparel and other textile products. Nevertheless, it seems unlikely that the evolution of bodywear sales was significantly more positive than that of other types of apparel.

 

FIBRES: synthetics win greater market share

 

A REPORT from the European Man-made Fibres Association (Cirfs) states that synthetic fibres accounted for 70 per cent of world utilization in 2013 as the share of cotton slipped to 29 per cent and wool retained just 1 per cent. In Europe, the share of synthetics reached 83 per cent. Although China is now the world’s largest producer of synthetic fibres, Europe remains the leading source of cellulosics, acrylics, elastane and polypropylene fibres.

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As an increasing proportion of consumers come to realize that the environmental characteristics of cotton are less positive than had been thought, the fibre is likely to lose further market share in the field of innerwear, sleepwear and homewear.

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

INVISTA: competition planned to promote legwear

 

WITH the objective of promoting the interest of young people in fashion tights, Invista, producer of Lycra fibre, is organising an online photo competition in six major European markets: France, Germany, Italy, Poland, Spain and the UK. The competition is part of the Legfie Love campaign and all that participants have to do is to post a selfie of their legs, a legfie, on the Facebook page of Lycra that illustrates their interpretation of the advantages provided by Lycra fibre. The competition runs from 12 January to 1 February and the first prize is a week’s holiday in Australia. Click here for more details of the competition.

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One of the most valuable effects of the competition is that it will oblige competitors to think for themselves about the advantages of Lycra rather than to receive passively the information provided by the fibre’s producer.

 

DOGI: fabric trends for S/S 2016 unveiled

 

UNDERLINING the strength of its revival after its acquisition by Sherpa Capital last year, leading bodywear fabric supplier Dogi launched a major promotional effort to maximize the impact of its presence as an exhibitor at the Interfilière salon in Paris from 24 to 26 January 2015. The latest edition of its Dogi Group News publication, which is being e-mailed to actual and prospective customers all over the world, unveils the main themes of its S/S 2016 collection of intimate apparel fabrics. These five themes, that cover major trends in the field of lingerie, are presented under the heading A Sweet Moment for You. Click here to see the introduction page and the descriptions of the five themes.

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This is the first time, to our knowledge, that Dogi has launched a pre-Interfilière campaign to maximize the flow of fabric buyers to its stand at the salon. This is a significant indication of its current drive to succeed.

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ARCHROMA: advice on eco-friendly finishing updated

 

SPECIALISTtextile chemicals supplier Archroma announced that it has updated its ONE WAY calculator that was conceived to help mills and brands to develop innovative textile solutions that are more ecologically and economically sustainable. The improved calculator now enables pre-selection of colorants and chemicals compliant with Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Manufacturers Restricted Substance List (MRSL).

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The update helps textile and apparel companies to identify products that reduce or eliminate impurities from effluent as well as those that reduce water and energy usage.

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

ORY: Spanish brand files for liquidation

 

LINGERIE and swimwear concern Ory, which employs 76 people, is reported to have filed for liquidation. The move follows a rejection by the workforce of a plan proposed by management to re-negociate the employment contracts of 60 workers. The responsible authorities are expected to make their decision known within the next few days.

 

Ory

Ory

Once a leading Spanish specialist in the production of larger cup size swimwear and lingerie, the brand has been facing for some years keener competition from newcomers to this field.

 

RINGELLA: support for charity announced

 

HOMEWEAR and sleepwear label Ringella launched in the UK an exclusive range of nightwear in collaboration with the Make a Wish Foundation that seeks to offer children with a life-threatening condition the means to realize their most important wish. For each sale of a pyjama set in the collection, the company will donate USD 5 to the charity. The offer was announced at the Lingerie Edit trade salon in London earlier this month.

 

Ringella

Ringella

In recent years, a growing number of brands have launched donation schemes in favour of a variety of causes. This type of promotion deserves to be used even more widely because, in addition to boosting sales, it also enhances the image of the label.

 

S.O.H.: new distributor appointed in the UK

 

EROTIC lingerie brand Shirley of Hollywood (S.O.H.) announced the appointment of the Alterego agency as its distributor in the UK. The US brand said that it expects the new distributor to bring fresh excitement and professionalism to the merchandising of its collections in the UK and Ireland.

 

Shirley of Hollywood

Shirley of Hollywood

Other, and hotter, US erotic labels are intensifying their efforts to develop sales in the UK, as well as in Europe generally. But because it is a long established brand, S.O.H is well placed to attract the many more mature women who are now adopting increasingly erotic styles of lingerie.

 

HANRO: product range diversified into yoga wear

 

THE LATEST move made by Swiss high quality innerwear label Hanro to broaden its product range is the launch of a collection of yoga wear. The new line, which will reach retail stores for A/W 2015/16, consists of some ten pieces, all designed for yoga and other”gentle” sport activities. Fabrics feature MicroModal, elastane and brushed cotton and tops are seamless for greater comfort. Retail prices will range from EUR 40 to 130.

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The continued success of Lululemon in North America suggests that a comparable, and as yet largely unexploited, market for yoga wear exists also in Europe.

 

WACOAL: integration of Eveden business completed

 

THE REORGANIZATION that was called for after the acquisition of the Eveden business and brands in 2012 is now completed and has led to the creation of Wacoal Europe Ltd, a new subsidiary of Wacoal Holdings Corp. The new corporate entity, which includes the former businesses of Wacoal France, Wacoal UK and Wacoal Eveden, is responsible for the European and Australasian operations of the Wacoal and b.tempt’d brands and for the global business of the Fantasie, Freya, Elomi, Goddess and Huit brands that were formerly operated by Eveden.

 

Huit by Wacoal Europe

Huit by Wacoal Europe

The way is now clear for Wacoal to start exploiting most effectively the considerable opportunities for further growth provided by its acquisition of the Eveden business and brands.

 

TRIUMPH: sells men’s branded underwear business

 

GERMAN trade publication TextilWirtschaft reported that Triumph International has agreed to sell its Hom men’s underwear business to Huber Holding, the Austrian group that operates the Skiny, Hanro and Huber brands of innerwear. The price of the deal was not revealed. Triumph said that the sale was in line with its strategy of concentrating on major global brands. Hom CEO Regine Weimar is to remain at the helm to ensure continuity of management.

 

Hom

Hom

The deal promises to strengthen Huber’s access to the French and Asian markets and will also allow the Hom label to benefit from Huber’s strong international presence, especially in the US.

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

MARKS & SPENCER: return to Belgium being prepared

 

LONG a market leader for lingerie and underwear in the UK, Marks & Spencer is to return to the Belgian market with a physical store due to open in the summer of 2015. The British chain has leased a 5’000m2 location in a new shopping centre sited in a central area of Brussels and plans to offer there both food and fashion, including underwear and lingerie. The new store will complement the online shop opened in Belgium late in 2012, which served to test the market for the chain’s merchandise.

 

Marks & Spencer

Marks & Spencer

The opening will mark a further step in the chain’s current bid to develop the continental European market that it abandoned precipitately in 2001 when it faced serious cash flow problems.

 

CHINA: foreign e-tailers now fully accepted

 

SUBJECT to them being based in the Shanghai Free Trade Zone (FTZ), foreign e-tailers are now allowed to own 100 per cent of their online store in China. Hitherto, all foreign online distribution platforms were obliged to be joint ventures with a local partner. The Shanghai FTZ was created in 2013 to meet the Chinese government’s aim to promote greater foreign direct investment in the country.

 

Shanghai FTZ

Shanghai FTZ

The major local online stores, Alibaba and Taobao, are so solidly implanted that having a Chinese partner might well prove to be an advantage for foreign e-tailers attempting to enter the Chinese market.

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

HANS HORNEMANN: to take key post at Wacoal

 

LEADING multinational lingerie brand Wacoal announced the appointment of Hans Hornemann as General Manager EMEA markets as from the end of February. Hornemann was formerly CEO Middle East, Central and Eastern Europe for Triumph International and earlier executive posts include Mexx and Cartier.

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ISAAC DABAH: honoured by business newspaper

 

ISRAELI financial newspaper Calcalist named Isaac Dabah, CEO of internationally expanding bodywear concern Delta Galil, Business Leader of the Year for 2014. The rating, which is determined by 100 senior executives, analysts, underwriters and investment managers in Israel is based on four criteria: reliability, consideration of shareholders, performance and transparency.

 

Isaac Dabah

Isaac Dabah

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

INTERFILIERE HK: details of Trend Forum unveiled

 

THE TREND Forum at the next edition of the Interfilière Hong Kong salon, to be staged on 18 and 19 March, will feature three themes, corresponding to the Day & Night concept. Modern by Day will feature new knit and weave textures for loungewear and underwear, Festive by Night will present innovative colour combinations and festive textures and Aromatic Flowers will focus on modern and romantic embroideries. Other exhibits will provide inspiration for innerwear with a sporty flavour.

 

Trend Forum Interfiliere Hong Kong

Trend Forum Interfiliere Hong Kong

In addition to trend information, the trade fair will present a uniquely broad and varied selection of fabrics and other production supplies for the bodywear manufacturing sector.

 

IMMAGINE ITALIA: salon to present over 200 brands

 

TO TAKE place in the Fortezza Da Basso in Florence from 6 to 8 February, the eighth edition of lingerie salon Immagine Italia & Co will feature over 200 labels from Italy and other countries. The organizers claim that leading labels from all over Europe, and not only Italy, will be exhibiting at the event.

Immagine Italia & Co

Immagine Italia & Co

 

The show is the only major event of its type in Italy and promises to prove of interest for larger distributors seeking more important Italian brands that do not usually exhibit outside their home country.

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

UNMENTIONABLES: US Patent Office plays coy

 

WHEN Norwegian underwear brand Comfyballs attempted to register its trademark in the US, the Patent Office turned down the application on the grounds that the label is vulgar. Yet the brand has been accepted in Australia and New Zealand as well as in Scandinavia and the EU. The official US explanation is that since the label implies that a man’s testicles will be comfortable when wearing the underpants, the word “balls” has an offensive meaning.

 

Comfyballs

Comfyballs

Offensive to whom? Eunuchs?

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