Home | Others | Full text issue week 03-2016

Full text issue week 03-2016

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 03-2016           

Summary of news published since the issue of Week 02-2016

 

jpa4Sibil220ARGUABLY the most important item of news in this week’s issue is that a sock knitter in Italy has launched a collection of everyday socks produced with Dryarn PP microfibre. This is important for two reasons. The first is that the fibre, which has been used hitherto only for functional legwear, finds its first commercial application in the field of traditional city socks. The second is that this marketing development brings to consumers a range of socks which provides a level of comfort, wellbeing, durability and convenience which no other fibre, whether natural or synthetic, used for socks can provide, as we have found by personal experience over the years since the fibre was first launched. 

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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NOTICE

 BECAUSE our team and most of our readers will be in Paris from 23 to 25 January to attend the S.I.L. and Interfilière salons, the next issue of this newsletter will be a double issue to be published on February 1 for Week 5.

BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

ITALY: stronger online sales of bodywear reported

UK: online spending gathers more strength

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

NILIT: yet another new mélange yarn launched

EUROJERSEY: new PR agency appointed

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

H.BEST: secures Nautica licence for underwear

ILEANA CALZE: 1177 line of socks features Dryarn

YSE: wedding lingerie capsule proposed

WOLFORD: new shapewear range made in cotton

DIESEL: choice of advertising media defended

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

CALZEDONIA: expansion in Spain quantified

CORTEFIEL: first stores opened on Caribbean isle

BOUX AVENUE: strong Christmas trading reported

AMERICAN APPAREL: Charney leads rescue bid

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

MATTEO CECCHI: made Sales Director by Eurojersey

LUDOVIC MANZON: takes helm of Sloggi brand

TRACY LEWIS : resigns from Wacoal Europe

SAUL GUZMAN: joins Alvanon as PR Consultant

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

PROMISES: nothing new under the sun

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

ITALY: stronger online sales of bodywear reported

 

ACCORDING to statistics supplied by Sistema Moda Italia (SMI), the Italian bodywear and legwear sectors generated sales of around EUR 4bn in the first nine months of 2015. Exports declined by 5.4 per cent against the same period in 2014 while imports rose by 2.6 per cent and domestic consumption increased marginally by 0.3 per cent. During the first three quarters of 2015, sales of all apparel products declined by 2.4 per cent. Particularly strong growth was achieved by online sales of bodywear and legwear that rose to EUR 237m from EUR 151.5m in 2014, allowing the online channel to raise its market share to 5.3 per cent.

Christies

Christies

The progress being made everywhere by online sales of underwear and lingerie provides further evidence that the channel is destined to dominate the distribution of bodywear.

 

See also:

ITALY: fabric exports lost ground in 2015

ITALY: swimwear stress affects most consumers

ITALY: hope of economic recovery strengthens

 

UK: online spending gathers more strength

 

ACCORDING to the latest data released by Barclaycard, online spending in the UK over the Christmas shopping period rose by 17.9 per cent year-on-year while high street stores reported a near-stagnating sales rise of 0.2 per cent. Barclaycard COO Chris Wood commented: “In many ways, this Christmas brought to the fore all the shopping trends of 2015. The large spikes in spending, centred around sales days like Black Friday, emphasise consumers’ increasing search for value as they hold back their spending until the best deals emerge. Likewise, whilst online shopping has grown in popularity throughout the year, the strength of consumer preference for digital over the high street was seen in full effect over the Christmas period. As retailers continue to release their Christmas trading updates we expect many to reflect these changing behaviours.”

Marks & Spencer

Marks & Spencer

This trend suggests that lingerie and hosiery brands could benefit from focusing their sales effort on retailers with a strong, or exclusive, internet presence.

 

See also :

UK : online sales record set in November

MARKS & SPENCER : tops UK loyalty index

UK : online sales of lingerie maintain growth

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 SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

NILIT: yet another new mélange yarn launched

 

A MAJOR world producer of nylon 6.6 fibre, Nilit launched a new three-colour mélange yarn that produces an optimal heather effect with enhanced fashion appeal. Labelled Triomix, the new yarn is said to be unique in the field of mélange fibres and will be presented on the Nilit stand at ISPO in Munich from 24 to 27 January 2016 as well as at the International Istanbul Yarn Fair from 4 to 6 February. The company also published its TrendBook for 2017/18 under the title Moments in Time. Click here to access the TrendBook.

Triomix by Nilit

Triomix by Nilit

The renewed proposal of a range of mélange yarns suggest that heather effects could be assuming added importance in the field of fashion.

 

See also:

NILIT: test confirms benefits of Innergy fibre

NILIT: Duelle yarn adopted by hosiery leader

 

 EUROJERSEY: new PR agency appointed

 

THE ITALIAN knitter that produces and markets the Sensitive® range of bodywear fabrics, Eurojersey, appointed Milan-based Logos PR, founded and managed by Jennifer Leppla, as its new PR agency after many years of collaboration with the Slalom agency.

Sensitive by Eurojersey

Sensitive by Eurojersey

The Sensitive® label has been developed over many years as one of the most widely recognized fabric labels, providing a solid base for its future promotion.

 

See also:

EUROJERSEY: S/S 2017 collection presented

EUROJERSEY: exhibit focuses on marine ecosystem

EUROJERSEY: five themes proposed for swimwear

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

H.BEST: secures Nautica licence for underwear

 

SPORTSWEAR brand Nautica concluded a licensing agreement with H. Best in New York that will produce and distribute a collection of men’s underwear under the Nautica label. The collection is to be based on minimalist designs, in strong colours, with geometric patterns. The basics in 100 per cent cotton will be supplemented by a line in micro-fibre and prices will range from USD 18.50 to USD 42.

Nautica

Nautica

The new licensee produces the 2(x)ist and DKNY ranges, which demonstrates its ability to manage the marketing problems associated with an underwear collection.

 

ILEANA CALZE: 1177 line of socks features Dryarn

 

ITALIAN sock knitter Ileana Calze launched its 1177 line which is produced entirely with Dryarn PP microfibre yarn from Aquafil. Although the new line includes many innovative designs, its most important characteristic is provided by the yarn, which meets all of the essential requirements for socks. In addition to its light weight, the yarn offers thermal regulation thanks to its inherent moisture management, is dermatologically neutral, does not pill, can be washed at low temperature and dries extremely quickly to provide exceptional wearer comfort and convenience.

1177 by Ileana

1177 by Ileana

Long used for functional legwear, Dryarn is ideal for everyday socks, as we have written many times in the past.

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YSE: wedding lingerie capsule proposed

 

IN COLLABORATION with specialist wedding dress designer Laure de Sagazan, lingerie brand Ysé, that offers specially designed lingerie to women with a smaller bust, has produced a capsule collection of wedding lingerie. Labelled A celle que j’aime, the capsule consists of two bras, one bandeau with removable straps and one unwired push-up, as well as a culotte and a thong. Both feature prominently Leavers lace from Calais.

Ysé

Ysé

The concept meets a consumer need that could well represent a viable niche market, provided that it can be promoted adequately at relatively little cost.

 

See also:

YSE: product range extended

YSE: first retail store opened in Paris

 

WOLFORD: new shapewear range made in cotton

 

LUXURY Austrian brand of legwear and bodywear Wolford launched a new range of shapewear made in a blend of Supima cotton with elastane. Labelled Cotton Contour, the range comprises three lines: Bodywear, Legwear and Lingerie, all designed for gentle control and comfortable fit. Bodywear includes Forming Body, Forming Top, Forming Skirt and Forming Dress, Legwear includes the Forming Capri and Forming Leggings while Lingerie proposes three styles of forming panties. The new range will be available to consumers as from February 2016.

Contour Cotton by Wolford

Contour Cotton by Wolford

Cotton Contour promises to appeal to consumers who prefer cotton to manmade fibres and who believe, against a mass of contrary evidence, that cotton is the most eco-friendly fibre.

 

See also:

WOLFORD: current range highlights stretch lace

WOLFORD: sales rose strongly in first half

WOLFORD: finer qualities added to tights range

 

DIESEL: choice of advertising media defended

 

THE CHOICE of porn websites as advertising media for the underwear collections of jeanswear specialist Diesel was defended by the brand’s creative director. Nicola Formichetti said that all potential customers visited such sites and that her choice of media reflects the real world in which we all live today. She added that print advertising remained important but that it was necessary to advertise also in media that were seen by consumers with their smartphones, tablets and computers.

Diesel

Diesel

Since almost everybody wears underwear, it could be argued that the most effective channels are those that reach most consumers at lowest cost, regardless of contents or media. Of course, it is also necessary to select media that target readers in the socio-economic categories that correspond to the image and price bracket of the collection being proposed. It is possible that some porn sites meet these criteria.

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

CALZEDONIA: expansion in Spain quantified

 

THE SPANISH subsidiary of Italian distribution group Calzedonia told the local press that it plans to open 50 new outlets in Spain during 2016. It added that it expects to return into the black after having declared a loss of EUR 0.176m in 2014. Franchising Calzedonia Expansion Manager Carles Tello said that the planned new outlets would include around 10 Calzedonia stores, 24 Intimissimi boutiques and 10 Tezenis shops.

Intimissimi by Calzedonia

Intimissimi by Calzedonia

The group’s continued expansion in Spain suggests that it retains its confidence despite the strength of local chains such as Oysho and Women’Secret.

 

See also :

CALZEDONIA: premium line of tights launched

CALZEDONIA: expansion into US envisaged

CALZEDONIA: chain to open men’s underwear stores

 

CORTEFIEL: first stores opened on Caribbean isle

 

A STORE of the Women’Secret lingerie chain was one of the three first openings made in the Caribbean islands by the Cortefiel distribution group. Located on Curaçao, the stores were opened in a shopping mall operated by the Sambil concern based in Venezuela. In November 2015, when it opened a Springfield store in Guatemala, Cortefiel said that it had identified Mexico as a key market and planned to open there up to ten stores a year.

Women'Secret by Cortefiel

Women’Secret by Cortefiel

Since Women’Secret is the group’s best performing chain, it is very likely to be included among the new openings to be made in Mexico.

 

See also :

CORTEFIEL : listing considered as alternative to sale

CORTEFIEL : strong growth reported in Russia

CORTEFIEL : move back to profit predicted for 2016

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BOUX AVENUE: strong Christmas trading reported

 

BRITISH lingerie chain Boux Avenue, which was created from scratch by local ace retailer and distribution guru Theo Paphitis, reported strong sales over the Christmas shopping period. Despite lower footfall in the 28 stores, comparable sales rose by 8.3 per cent in the six weeks ending 31 December. For the full year 2014/15, which ended on 28 March 2015, the chain reported total UK sales up by 35.5 per cent to GBP 36.5m and EBITDA 2.7 per cent higher. For the current fiscal year, the chain predicted sales of GBP 45m with further growth in margins and improved EBITDA.

Boux Avenue

Boux Avenue

Considering the founder’s past history and track record, the success of the chain comes as no surprise and can be expected to continue.

 

See also :

BOUX AVENUE : global expansion plans revealed

BOUX AVENUE : Oxford Street flagship store to open

BOUX AVENUE : UK expansion maintained

 

AMERICAN APPAREL: Charney leads rescue bid

 

FOUNDER and former CEO of the troubled American Apparel chain, Dov Charney secured backing from two investment groups to make a USD 300m bid for the chain that is now under Chapter 11. The investors propose injecting around USD 130m, which would allow the chain to exit bankruptcy with some USD 160m of liquidity and new equity against around USD 75m under its debtors’ plan. Charney says he has a business plan that would improve the performance of the company that dismissed him in 2014 on grounds of sexual harassment.

American Apparel

American Apparel

The chain, which claims to sell exclusively merchandise made in the US, continues to be highly regards by US consumers.

 

See also:

 

AMERICAN APPAREL: sales decline continues

AMERICAN APPAREL: Chapter 11 filing reported

AMERICAN APPAREL: New York SEC threatens delisting

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 PEOPLE – corporate personalities                                      

 

MATTEO CECCHI: made Sales Director by Eurojersey

 

ITALIAN knitter Eurojersey, that produces and markets the Sensitive® range of bodywear fabrics, announced the appointment of Matteo Cecchi as its new Sales Director. Cecchi joined the company in 2010 as sales manager for RTW and sportswear. Earlier, he had been export manager of Compagnia Tessile SpA.

 

Matteo Cecchi

Matteo Cecchi

LUDOVIC MANZON: takes helm of Sloggi brand

 

GLOBAL lingerie brand Triumph International placed Ludovic Manzon at the head of its Sloggi briefs business. Manzon had been General Manager Asia-Pacific Region with sports equipment brand Puma, which he had joined in 2004 as Manager Japan.

Ludovic Manzon

Ludovic Manzon

TRACY LEWIS : resigns from Wacoal Europe

 

AFTER 11 years at the helm of the company, Wacoal Europe CEO Tracy Lewis said that she would resign from the post at the end of March 2016. Her position is to be taken over by Geoff Embley who is now Finance Director.

Tracy Lewis

Tracy Lewis

SAUL GUZMAN: joins Alvanon as PR Consultant

 

APPAREL sizing and business expert Alvanon announced the appointment of Saul Guzman as PR Consultant, with particular responsibility for the European region. Earlier, Guzman had been PR Manager at London luxury store Harvey Nichols.

 

Saul Guzman

Saul Guzman

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

PROMISES: nothing new under the sun

 

AN EARLY 20th Century advertisement promised gullible consumers that the Heidelberg Electric Belt either cured or brought relief from almost all known diseases and physical conditions, all at the cost of USD 18.

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Things have got better in the 21st Century since shapewear actually does improve the wearer’s body shape…at least until it is taken off.

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