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Full text issue week 14-2016

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 14-2016 

Summary of news published since Week 12-2016

 jpa4Sibil220THE DECISION of British retail giant Marks & Spencer to include burkinis in its assortment of swimwear reflects two significant facts. The first is that the number of Muslim women in the UK has caused this market segment to merit the attention of a major distributor. This suggests that brands and distributors in other countries that have a large Muslim population might also consider offering appropriate swimwear. The second is that a growing number of Muslim women are prepared not only to go to the beach but also to go in the water. This is important because it signals the evolution of a trend that could well spread from Europe to Muslim countries throughout the world, creating a huge new market for swimwear and swimwear fabrics. Clearly, this market will take years to develop but it promises excellent opportunities for all players in the beachwear supply chain.

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

ITALY: hosiery cluster relaunches promotion

EUROPE: men’s underwear sector reviewed

SWIMWEAR: new report evaluates global market

CONCEPT: novel approach to trikini design

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

LENZING: A/W 2017/18 colour trends revealed

INVISTA: new technology cuts fabric costs

SOPHIE HALLETTE: bid for lace makers raised

DESSEILLES LACES: Chinese bidder is successful

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

REPLAY: stake acquired by Hong Kong group

BJÖRN BORG: new range features skin tones

BANANA MOON: online services expanded

MAISON LEJABY: new line celebrates women’s lib

F**K BEACHWEAR: outlets added to retail network

PAIN DE SUCRE: agent appointed in USA

LOVESTORIES: retail network expanded further

LA PERLA: new flagship store opened in Tokyo

GOSSARD: sales effort in France to intensify

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

MARKS & SPENCER: burkinis added to assortment

BEATE UHSE: assortment now includes shapewear

HUNKEMOELLER: first stores in Russia to open

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

PAUL CHARRON: joins Board of American Apparel

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EXHIBITIONS– what to see and where to trade

 

MAREDIMODA: trend team designated

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

PERVERSION: cat steals only men’s underwear

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

ITALY: hosiery cluster relaunches promotion

 

KNITTERS that form Italy’s hosiery cluster in and around Castel Goffredo decided to relaunch their international promotion under the slogan Italian Legwear a Touch of Excellence. The area that accounts for 80 per cent of Italian legwear production, valued at around EUR 1bn, counts some 150 companies employing about 4’500 people. Ten years ago, there were 240 producers employing 6’000. The decline of the past decade is attributed mainly to offshoring by major producers either to benefit from lower labour costs or to gain access to protected markets.

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The revival of the slogan will allow Italian knitters to derive greater benefit from the advantages of the made in Italy label.

 

See also:

BALLERINA: plus size hosiery collection launched

JOOP: new hosiery licensee appointed

NUBIAN SKIN: plus size hosiery range launched

 

EUROPE: men’s underwear sector reviewed

 

PUBLISHED by QYResearch, a new study analyses the men’s underwear sector in Europe. Under the title Europe Men’s Underwear Industry Market Research Report 2016 the publication covers every aspect of the sector, including production and consumption as well as producers’ development policies and plans. It also analyses the raw materials and equipment scene as well as consumption trends.

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Hom

Over the past decades, the men’s underwear scene in Europe has been impacted strongly by the growing influence of fashion as a criterion for consumer choice. Consequently, the update of marketing information provided by the report should prove particularly valuable for professional players.

 

See also:

CALZEDONIA: chain to open men’s underwear stores

CSP: licence for men’s underwear secured

MENALSO: personalized men’s underwear proposed

 

SWIMWEAR: new report evaluates global market

 

PRODUCED by Technavio, a new report titled Global Swimwear Market 2015-2019 finds that the world market for swimwear is now expanding at a CAGR of over 5 per cent and is expected to reach a value of more that USD 20bn by 2019. Then, the US market is predicted to reach USD 10bn and sales in Europe are expected to exceed USD 5bn. Swimming is forecast to become more popular in the Asia-Pacific region, boosting CAGR to 8 per cent creating a market worth more than USD 4bn. In the MEA region, greater availability of modest swimwear is expected to produce a CAGR of over 4 per cent, producing a market worth USD 0.56bn.

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Parah

Considering the relatively low entry barrier to swimwear production, the predicted evolution is likely to produce many new brands and thus to favour keener competition between labels.

 

See also:

ISOLA: swimwear brand finally reprieved

BENDON: first swimwear collection launched

PAS GROUP: Jets swimwear business acquired

 

CONCEPT: novel approach to trikini design

 

CELEBRITY swimwear designer Lisa Marie Fernandez developed a novel approach to the trikini concept and introduced the Bikini Twin Set, which features a cardigan that coordinates with the two-piece swimsuit. The novelty targets women who want to be shielded from the sun or are reluctant to show their arms. Because it is made from the same swimwear fabric as the matched bikini, the cardigan can be worn while swimming. It can also be worn over a dress for cooler summer evenings.

Bikini Twin Set

Bikini Twin Set

This provides a perfect example of a garment which no woman realized that she really needed.

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

LENZING: A/W 2017/18 colour trends revealed

 

A WORLD leader in the field of cellulosic fibres, Lenzing published its colour trends for A/W 2017/18. Because the company is increasingly focused on its range of speciality fibres such as Tencel and Modal, a field in which it can maximize the benefits of its advanced technology and in-depth knowledge of world markets, its colour proposals promise to influence appreciably the evolution of intimate apparel fashion worldwide. Click here to access the colour trends and associated images.

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This information prompts a reminder that cellulosic fibres rank among the most eco-friendly of all textile products since the trees from which they are made require no fertilizers or irrigation and do not replace food crops.

 

See also:

LENZING: eco performance recognized

LENZING: new group strategy unveiled

LENZING: Q3 confirms positive earnings trend

 

 INVISTA: new technology cuts fabric costs

 

PRESENTED by Invista during the Lycra Fiber Moves conference in Como, a new technology eliminates the need to scour and rinse fabrics before dyeing. Labelled Lycra Aqua NRG, the technology reduces by 30 per cent the amount of water used when dyeing fabrics and cuts the time needed by two hours. It also reduces the number of chemicals required for dyeing and lowers the amount of energy used for machines and for heating water, thus reducing total production costs.

Lycra AquaNRJ

Lycra AquaNRJ

Besides reducing production costs, the technology also allows manufacturers to enhance their environmental credentials.

 

See also:

INVISTA: novelties announced at legwear conference

INVISTA: legwear prospects analyzed

INVISTA: effectiveness of Cooling fabric confirmed

 

SOPHIE HALLETTE: bid for lace makers raised

 

FOLLOWING the pledge by regional and local authorities to provide additional financial support, the parent of Sophie Hallette, the Holesco group, raised to EUR 2.845m its bid to acquire failed Leavers lace makers Desseilles and Codentel. The bidder made a commitment to allow both companies’ Leavers lace production to remain in the Calais area.

Sophie Hallette

Sophie Hallette

The raised bid reflects the Holesco group’s determination to oppose a Chinese attempt to break into the Calais lace sector.

 

See also:

SOPHIE HALLETTE: bid made for failed lace maker

DESSEILLES LACES: survival remains uncertain

 

DESSEILLES LACES: Chinese bidder is successful

 

THE RIGHT to acquire failed Leavers lace maker Desseilles Laces was finally won by Chinese concern Yongshen. The winning bid was supported by a commitment to maintain 60 of the current 74 jobs for at least thee years and to invest EUR 4m in the business over the coming two years. The Chinese company also bid to acquire another failed Leavers lace maker, Codentel, but a decision will not be handed down until 7 April.

Desseilles Laces

Desseilles Laces

The deal raises a major question mark: at the end of the period covered by a commitment, the Leavers looms could be relocated in China and operated at appreciably lower cost by local labour.

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

REPLAY: stake acquired by Hong Kong group

 

HONG KONG-based Belle International Holding acquired from the founder’s widow a 29 per cent stake in Equibox Holding SpA, which controls the Replay leisurewear brand that also produces a collection of swimwear. The remaining 71 per cent of the equity is still in the hands of the founder’s brother.

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Replay

It is not clear whether the size of the acquired stake suffices to give the Hong Kong group full control over the development of the Replay business.

 

BJÖRN BORG: new range features skin tones

 

THE MEN’S underwear label created by former tennis ace Björn Borg launched a collection of six skin-toned boxers intended to match most people’s natural skin shade. Labelled Skin Collection, the range was launched on Racial Discrimination Day, a UN initiative to promote human rights and equality. Björn Borg marketing director Jonas Lindberg Nyvang commented: “Nude is not a color; it’s a concept that everybody should have the right to enjoy. We call it six shades of human and the reason to our launch on the UN Racial Discrimination Day is that the political climate in Europe has been very tough as of late and it is time to show color. This is our contribution to that debate.”

Skin Collection by Björn Borg

Skin Collection by Björn Borg

To our knowledge, this is the first time the skin colour concept has been applied to men’s underwear. Whether it proves as successful in that field as it has been in the women’s lingerie sector remains to be seen.

 

See also:

BJÖRN BORG: capsule vintage collection launched

BJÖRN BORG: first half sales and profit declined

BJÖRN BORG: subscription service launched

 

BANANA MOON: online services expanded

 

IN ADDITION to the launch of a new B2C online store, Monaco-based swimwear and lingerie brand Banana Moon launched a B2B section of its online shop proposing its full range of products, from swimwear and fashion apparel to accessories. The new B2C store complements the 40 owned physical stores and 2’500 retail accounts that distribute the brand in France and other countries while the B2B section allows retailers to order out-of-stock models for direct delivery to their customers. The main objective is to boost export sales, which currently account for 35 per cent of turnover. At the same time, the brand announced that it is preparing to relaunch its range of activewear products for A/W 2016/17.

Banana Moon

Banana Moon

The brand is one of the few major success stories of the late 20th century and continues to consolidate its position on the bodywear market.

 

See also:

BANANA MOON: gap closed in retail network

 

MAISON LEJABY: new line celebrates women’s lib

 

TO BE LAUNCHED at retail in September 2016, a new line from Maison Lejaby pays tribute to the first non-wired triangle bras introduced by the brand in the ‘70s when the women’s liberty movement was in full swing. Labelled Liberty like the original collection, the range is said to capture the feminist spirit of the time and is being relaunched with four bra shapes and three colours: black, sapphire blue and groseille red. It features lace cups and hemstitched elastic bands to provide support.

Miss Lejaby

Miss Lejaby

The new line is certain to arouse positive as well as nostalgic sentiments among women who lived through that period and often participated in the struggle for greater women’s rights.

 

See also:

MAISON LEJABY: first retail store opened

MAISON LEJABY: launch of retail operation contemplated

MAISON LEJABY: new brand positioning unveiled

 

F**K BEACHWEAR: outlets added to retail network

PRODUCED in Italy by Giorgio SRL, the F**k Beachwear label is expanding its retail network in Italian resort locations. Three new retail stores were opened in Cervia, Riccione and Gallipoli, complementing the existing outlets in Santa Margherita Ligure and Milan as well as in Spain where it is present on Ibiza and Formentera. The brand also wholesales to some 800 points of sale in Italy, the EU and other European countries.

F**k Beachwear

F**k Beachwear

Though it might shock some people, the brand name certainly attracts attention and should allow the label to strengthen its presence in world markets.

 

PAIN DE SUCRE: agent appointed in USA

 

FRENCH swimwear brand Pain de Sucre appointed its first distribution agent in the US: the Finaben concern in Miami. A showroom presence there has already been organized and the brand is to exhibit at the Hammock trade salon in July. The label serves some 600 retail accounts worldwide as well as a number of dedicated retail stores in Paris, St Tropez, London, Dubai, Hong Kong, Saint-Barthélemy and elsewhere. It also operates an online store in France.

Pain de Sucre

Pain de Sucre

The brand has seen its distribution expand steadily over several decades has every chance of achieving significant growth in the US.

 

LOVESTORIES: retail network expanded further

 

BASED in Amsterdam, Netherlands, lingerie brand LoveStories continues to expand its network of retail stores. Following a first opening in its home city, then in Antwerp, it is now preparing to open stores in Lille, France, and in Paris. Before then, it will open a store in Sydney in collaboration with a local partner. The brand, which specializes in wire-free bras and boldly coloured nightwear featuring mix’n match opportunities in the high-medium price bracket, claims to wholesale its collection to some 600 points of sale worldwide and proposes up to 120 new designs each season. It plans to open some 20 dedicated stores within the coming three years.

LoveStories

LoveStories

The brand, which is said to be backed by a discrete but well-heeled investor, could well make a significant impact on its chosen market segment.

 

LA PERLA: new flagship store opened in Tokyo

 

PRESTIGIOUS Italian lingerie brand La Perla opened a new 380m2 flagship store in Tokyo. The three-storey premises housed in a glass building is conceived as an art gallery with a common theme for all storeys. While the ground-floor entrance is a welcome area, the first floor is dedicated to the women’s collections and features a Private Lounge for VIP customers. The second floor presents the label’s ranges for men.

La Perla

La Perla

The design concept of the new store is intended to serve as a model for the label’s future flagship stores.

 

See also:

LA PERLA: new flagship store opened in Hong Kong

LA PERLA: boutique network expands rapidly

LA PERLA: refurbished New York store re-opened

 

GOSSARD: sales effort in France to intensify

 

BRITISH lingerie brand Gossard, long present on the French market but with little sales volume through physical stores there, announced plans to intensify its sales effort in that country, which is seen as a priority market. New regional sales agents have been appointed and negotiations initiated with department store groups. A new poster advertising campaign, initially limited to the Paris area, is also to be launched at the end of 2016. The company also plans to strengthen its position in the Polish, Turkish and US markets.

Gossard

Gossard

Germany is also cited as a priority export market but it is difficult to imagine that sufficient resources are available to support all of the stated objectives.

 

See also:

GOSSARD: US sales campaign intensified

COURTAULDS: brands plan to expand abroad

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

MARKS & SPENCER: burkinis added to assortment

 

LEADING British distributor of intimate apparel Marks & Spencer added two styles of burkinis to its assortment of swimwear. The burkini full-length swim dress provides non-revealing total body cover and features lightweight fabrics that allow the wearer to swim in comfort. The S/S 2016 season marks the first time such garments have been proposed by the chain. Though intended primarily for Muslim women, burkinis are also worn by others that seek extreme modesty for religious or personal reasons.

Burkini

Burkini

Distributors in other European country with an important Muslim population might also give serious consideration to the introduction of burkinis into their range.

 

See also:

RAJOUL: equivalent of burkini for men launched

 

BEATE UHSE: assortment now includes shapewear

 

THE GERMAN chain that specializes in erotic merchandise, Beate Uhse, added a selection of shapewear to its already large assortment of intimate apparel. Its country manager Germany, Nicola Schumann, commented that she saw considerable growth potential in the shapewear sector.

Beate Uhse

Beate Uhse

This is a news item which confirms that a need to adopt shapewear is not necessarily a handicap in the race for sexual attraction.

 

HUNKEMOELLER: first stores in Russia to open

 

RANKED among the largest lingerie chains in Europe, Hunkemöller is preparing to open its first two stores in Russia during the summer of 2016. The two stores, each of around 100m2, are to open in two different shopping centres in the Moscow area.

Hunkemöller

Hunkemöller

It is highly probable that other stores will be opened elsewhere in Russia when suitable premises are secured. As it expands there, the chain is certain to win a significant share of the Russian lingerie market.

 

See also:

HUNKEMOELLER: sale approved by Commission

HUNKEMOELLER: Indian expansion gets under way

HUNKEMOELLER: two European retail awards won

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities                                      

 

PAUL CHARRON: joins Board of American Apparel

 

A FORMER CEO of the Liz Claiborne fashion chain, Paul Charron was named Chairman of the Board of American Apparel. Currently, Charron is also CEO of the Zac Posen designer label.

Paul Charron

Paul Charron

EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

MAREDIMODA: trend team designated

 

THE LEADING world salon for swimwear fabrics and production accessories, MarediModa, which is preparing its next edition in Cannes from 8 to 10 November 2016, revealed details of the team that would develop its trends for S/S 2018. For that season, a team from the Nuova Accademia di Belle Arte Milano (NABA) will join WGSN and View publisher David Shah in defining the trend directions that will first be revealed exclusively to fabric suppliers in Como and Barcelona at the salon preview in May 2016. Click here to see the MarediModa trends for S/S 2017.

MarediModa

MarediModa

Each year since they were first presented to the professionals of the swimwear and intimate apparel sectors, the MarediModa trends have exerted a stronger influence on the products of the relevant supply chains.

 

See also:

MAREDIMODA: positive results achieved in Munich

MAREDIMODA: 2015 attendance 4 per cent higher

MAREDIMODA: leading bodywear brands rewarded

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 FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

PERVERSION: cat steals only men’s underwear

 

A NEW ZEALAND newspaper reported that a cat owner in Hamilton has published an advertisement offering to return men’s underwear and socks that had been stolen by her cat. The advertisement implies that only men’s garments had been stolen.

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The reference to cat owners makes us doubt the truth of this story. As anyone who has shared accommodation with a cat knows, it is always the human that is owned by the feline.

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