Home | Others | Full text Issue week 19-2015

Full text Issue week 19-2015

M2-banner500x80

ISSN 1994-2419

 

Sibil-newsletter-logo200
 

Issue Week 19-2015

 Summary of news published in Week 18-2014

 

jpa4Sibil220ENOUGH time has elapsed since some fibre and yarn suppliers to the bodywear industry introduced recycled versions of their nylon and polyester products for eco-friendly fabrics to become available commercially. Yet, one news item in this issue suggests that relatively few knitters of swimwear fabrics are exploiting opportunities to establish their commitment to environmental issues. This could be due to knitters’ desire to optimize the diversity of their product range so as to reduce costs, or to weak demand shown by garment manufacturers. Either way, consumers seeking sustainable swimwear are not being served adequately by major brands. These consumers are obliged to buy online from small specialist labels, often internationally with resulting higher costs. It could be argued that limited consumer demand for eco-friendly swimwear does not justify its inclusion in major branded collections. But, until major brands start producing, and especially promoting, sustainable products, the true size of the potential market remains an unknown quantity.

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

NILIT-duomix-500x80

 

BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

STYLING: Mode City S/S 2016 trends unveiled

INDIA: online lingerie market analysed

Liebaert-banner500x80
 

SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

INVISTA: commitments in China re-affirmed

ECO FABRICS: sourcing concern suggests suppliers

 Radici-banner500x80

 

THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

LENITA: emphasis on denim maintained

TRUSST: crowdfunding campaign reaches target

BLACKSPADE: success claimed for US expansion

HANESBRANDS: Q1 operating profit surged

CARRIWELL: seamless nursing bra developed

DBA: Dim’s Russian stores to be closed

WACOAL: launch in India being prepared

AGUA BENDITA: expansion plans revealed

 Lycra-banner500x80

 

DISTRIBUTION: evolution of chains and channels

 

SWIMSUITSFORALL: plus size eco-range launched

WOMEN’SECRET: named star performer of Cortefiel

VALEGE: strategy calls for expansion in provinces

Textra-banner500x80 

PEOPLE: corporate personalities

 

JURGEN WOLLENSCHLAGER: resigns from Felina

THOMAS MELZER: CFO to leave Wolford

 New creora banner500

 

EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

GOTTEX: retrospective honours Lea Gottlieb

Lenzing 2015 banner 500x80

 

FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

TOP TO BOTTOM: panties knitted with human hair

 Piave-new-500x80

 

BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

STYLING: Mode City S/S 2016 trends unveiled

 

LEADING innerwear and swimwear salon Mode City, which is to open together with production supplies show Interfilière Paris on 4 July 2015, presented its S/S 2016 lingerie, swimwear and loungewear trends in a new video. The visual presentation features five themes titled Odalisque, Mermaid, Amazon, Myth and Legend. Click here to view the video.

 

Mode City Paris

Mode City Paris

Because the salon is the leading bodywear forum in Europe, its trend predictions will influence the merchandise selection of leading distributors and thus will indirectly shape consumers’ perception of the seasonal bodyfashion look.

 

INDIA: online lingerie market analysed

 

RESEARCH concern Technavio published a report titled Online Lingerie Market in India, which predicts for the Indian online channel a CAGR of 42.32 per cent from 2015 to 2019. The predicted growth is attributed partly to young consumers’ increasing interest in fashion, which has an impact on the lingerie market, and partly on the channel’s ability to provide fashionable lingerie of high quality to women in small towns who have no, or limited, access to physical lingerie stores selling branded goods.

 

Zivame

Zivame

For foreign brands that have the means of financing and replenishing inventory in India, and of creating the required logistics support, an e-commerce platform could prove a more effective means of supplying the Indian market than the opening of physical stores, or of conventional wholesaling. An alternative means of entry could be to negotiate an agreement with an established e-tailer.

New-Penn-TS-banner500

 

SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

INVISTA: commitments in China re-affirmed

 

COMMENTING on his company’s sponsorship of the 3rd China (Shanghai) International Technology Fair, Invista Vice President Raymond Geoffroy re-affirmed a commitment to licensing technologies in China while pursuing stronger protection for the company’s intellectual property rights. He commented: “INVISTA believes innovation should create real value through new platforms and applications, and our licensing business extends those opportunities for Chinese companies. We are also committed to protecting our intellectual property rights everywhere throughout the world, including for our licensees. While we are encouraged by the evidence of increased enforcement of IP rights in China, we believe strong respect for IP is beneficial to Chinese economic growth and local innovation.” INVISTA Performance Technologies provides the resources and know-how to deliver world-scale technology for licensing to a growing portfolio of technologies in the value chains of polyester (PTA, polymer, fiber, R2R), polyurethane (BDO, PTMEG) and nylon (adipic acid, PA66 polymer, N2O abatement).

 

Invista

Invista

The comment serves as a reminder that the royalties paid for licensing a technology merely allow a licensee to use it but not to dispose of it at will.

 

ECO FABRICS: sourcing concern suggests suppliers

 

AN ARTICLE by sourcing service Le Souk that was posted on Sourcing Journal identifies three knitting concern that are described as best sources for sustainable fabrics for sport and swimwear applications. The article cites Lafgo Lafayette in Colombia, Oratex in Canada and Toray Industries in Japan but a quick look at the suppliers’ website reveals that very few of their eco-friendly products are recommended for swimwear applications. We know of at least one other knitter, Carvico, that propose swimwear fabrics made with recycled nylon or polyester and there are probably more. Click here to see the full text of recommendations with more details on product ranges.

Vita, Eco-fabric by Carvico

Vita, Eco-fabric by Carvico

 

The launch by Invista of an eco-friendly version of Lycra elastane is likely to prompt other knitters to produce more sustainable versions of their stretch fabrics.

Wegal-Banner500x80

 

THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

LENITA: emphasis on denim maintained

 

TO SUPPORT the range of jeans it launched for S/S 2015, Spanish brand Lenita made extensive use of denim for the new swimwear collection launched this year. Under the title Denim Time, the line features denim separates and denim surfaces mixed with prints, sometimes decorated with rhinestones and other details that recall the age of rock’n roll.j

 

Lenita

Lenita

In the past, many other swimwear brands introduced the denim look into their collection, but none of these attempts led to the development of a significant fashion trend for beachwear.

 

TRUSST: crowdfunding campaign reaches target

 

SEEKING capital to start production of a new bra concept described here on 16 February, the founders of Trusst Lingerie launched a crowdfunding campaign to raise USD 25’000. With 25 days to go, the response has already exceeded the target, which implies that production will start soon. Joint founder Sophia Berman explained: “This idea came from our personal experiences in finding bras. We wanted to offer women functionality and support. About a year ago, we put our heads together to solve this problem. We started off from a purely engineering standpoint: breasts are heavy, and bigger breasts are even heavier. Heavier things need more support than lighter things. Current bras are designed without weight in mind, which is why most of them fail.”

 

Trusst Lingerie

Trusst Lingerie

The rapid success of the campaign confirms that there is considerable potential demand to be met. This suggests that, providing the bra is promoted adequately, it is capable of winning appreciable market share from established brands in the US. Also, since potential demand is likely to be as great in other countries, bra manufacturers there might consider seeking a licensing deal.

 

BLACKSPADE: success claimed for US expansion

 

TURKISH underwear brand Blackspade, which is produced by Narkontex, reported good progress made in the US where it was launched in February 2014. The range is said by local trade magazine Body to have opened many retail accounts, with further expansion of sales expected in 2015. Founded in 2005, Narkontex claims to be the country’s leading producer of garments worn next to the skin, with a product range that also includes thermalwear, shapewear and loungewear. Including its important private label activity, the company claims a daily production capacity of 40’000 pieces and says its short lead time, from 6 to 8 weeks, are achieved without loss of quality.

Blackspade

Blackspade

 

The US success of the Blackspade label could encourage Narkontex, which already sells the brand in more than 20 countries, to strengthen yet further its sales effort in export markets.

 

HANESBRANDS: Q1 operating profit surged

 

ALTHOUGH first quarter sales of innerwear by Hanesbrands slipped by 4 per cent year on year, due to inventory reductions by retailers, the company’s total net sales rose by 14 per cent to USD 1.2bn. This helped operating profit for the period to rise by 25 per cent, to USD 90m. EPS also increased, by 30 per cent to USD 0.13. Sales of recently acquired DBApparel made a significant contribution to the advance.

 

Playtex by Hanesbrands

Playtex by Hanesbrands

Together with expected further gains in all aspects of operating efficiency, the recent acquisitions can be expected to continue their valuable contribution to the company’s future growth.

 

CARRIWELL: seamless nursing bra developed

 

DANISH maternity bra specialist Carriwell has developed a seamless padded nursing bra that provides many advantages for new mothers. Described by the company as the most shapely bra it has ever produced, it features light and removable moulded cups that provide adequate shaping and support as well as comfort. A one-handed nursing clasp exposes the entire breast for nursing, maximizing skin-to-skin contact between mother and baby. Larger shoulder straps ensure greater comfort in wear.

 

Carriwell

Carriwell

The bra could help the company to expand even further the proportion of its sales accounted for by exports.

 

DBA: Dim’s Russian stores to be closed

 

RUSSIAN news agency Ria-Novosti reported that French bodywear and legwear group DBApparel (DBA), which is being restructured following its acquisition by Hanesbrands, is to close its owned stores operating in Russia under the Dim brand. The move relates to the 15 owned stores in Moscow and St. Petersburg that are to close by 31 May 2015, leaving open 41 franchised Dim stores in Russia. It is a response to the declining consumption that is caused by the weak rouble that fuels inflation there. DBA is reported to have said that any future expansion of the Dim store network would be on a franchise model.

Dim

Dim

 

As low oil prices and the Ukraine crisis continue to undermine the country’s economy, more Western brands active in Russia and other rouble-linked nations could adopt franchising or licensing strategies.

 

WACOAL: launch in India being prepared

 

LEADING Japan-based multinational lingerie brand Wacoal is preparing to enter the Indian market. The luxury label is to invest the equivalent of USD 1.58m in a joint venture with Periwinkle Fashions Pvt as its local partner. Operations will start with the opening of two exclusive standalone Wacoal stores in Mumbai and Delhi, to be followed by stores in other major cities. Wacoal International CEO Tsuneo Matsui commented: “We decided to foray into the Indian market as it is representative of exponential market growth and is an economy which is conducive to industry with its basic policies such as foreign investment promotion, social infrastructure development and expansion of industries.”

 

Wacoal

Wacoal

To date, few Western luxury brands have attempted to benefit from the growth of Indian demand for prestigious lingerie labels. Wacoal’s move may be a signal for some to start exploring opportunities in India.

 

AGUA BENDITA: expansion plans revealed

 

AFTER having taken control of its retail store in Florida late in 2014, Colombian swimwear concern Agua Bendita said that the US market remained a priority. It added that it was seeking new store locations there but that, at present, it was concentrating on boosting its wholesale business with multibrand retailers. At the same time, the company is to maintain its expansion in Central and South America with the opening of new franchised stores. In 2014, the company raised its sales by 30 per cent and it expects to make similar progress in 2015.

 

Agua Bendita

Agua Bendita

This expansion underlines the strength of the Colombian swimwear industry, to which we drew attention in the preceding issue of this newsletter.

Willy-Hrmnn_Banner500x80

 

DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

SWIMSUITSFORALL: plus size eco-range launched

 

US SWIMWEAR distribution specialist e-tailer Swimsuitsforall has launched a line of swimwear conceived to appeal to eco-conscious plus size women. Labelled Swim Sexy, the capsule collection is made up in fabrics knitted with Recotex 100% recycled polyester and elastane yarn, with swing tickets printed in recycled paper. The collection features, and is endorsed by, established plus size model Laura Wells who is currently preparing a Masters degree in Environmental Management.

swimsuitsforall220

By appealing to both plus size and environmentally-conscious consumers, the new range will attract the attention of a rapidly growing number of women.

 

WOMEN’SECRET: named star performer of Cortefiel

 

RESULTS for 2014 of Spanish distributor Grupo Cortefiel showed that its Women’Secret lingerie chain had been its best-performing operation last year. The chain raised its sales by 10.5 per cent and its share of the Spanish market by 8 per cent, strengthening its leadership there. During 2014, Women’Secret entered 13 new markets and now operates in 62 countries. The parent group raised its sales by 4.9 per cent to EUR 1.01bn, thus breaching the EUR 1bn ceiling for the fist time.

 

Women'Secret

Women’Secret

The strong performance of the Spanish chain, as well as that of Oysho and of comparable chains elsewhere in Europe, is providing ever keener competition for newcomers from overseas, such as Victoria’s Secret.

 

VALEGE: strategy calls for expansion in provinces

 

FRENCH bodywear chain Valège, which is already solidly implanted with franchises in Paris and surrounding areas with some 60 stores, plans to strengthen its presence in the provinces. This year, it hopes to open 10 new stores of 60m2 to 80m2 in provincial cities with a catchment area of over 50’000 people. The chain, that proposes innerwear, nightwear, swimwear and accessories introduced a new concept two years ago.

 

Valège

Valège

Once it has achieved national coverage, the chain might well consider promoting expansion into other countries.

Madeira-banner500xx80

 

PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

JURGEN WOLLENSCHLAGER: resigns from Felina

 

AT THE helm of German bodywear label Felina since 2007, Jürgen Wollenschläger resigned from his post of CEO only weeks after the company was acquired by private equity fund Palero Invest. The resignation by common accord was prompted by disagreement about the strategic direction to be taken by the company.

 

Jürgen Wollenschläger

Jürgen Wollenschläger

THOMAS MELZER: CFO to leave Wolford

 

AUSTRIAN luxury legwear and bodywear brand Wolford announced the resignation of its CFO Thomas Melzer, effective on 31 July 2015, to pursue other interests. During his three years with Wolford, Melzer is said to have played a significant role in the strategic re-focusing and turnaround of the business.

Thomas Melzer

Thomas Melzer

Cifra banner500x80

 

EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

GOTTEX: retrospective honours Lea Gottlieb

 

A NEW YORK exhibition pays tribute to the unique prints and distinctive styling of the Gottex beachwear collections created by Lea Gottlieb in the ’90s. Staged by the Laurie M. Tisch Gallery at the Manhattan Jewish Communal Center, the exhibition features 16 beachwear creations, including both swimsuits and cover-ups, that illustrate impressively the artistic qualities that made the luxury label an international icon. Senior curator Megan Whitman said: “The collection represents not only the triumph of a woman designer who survived the Holocaust and built an internationally successful company, but also a vivid look at the work of an artist who helped define Israel’s aesthetic.”

 

Lea Gottlieb

Lea Gottlieb

Designers who are too young to have appreciated the creative qualities of Gottex models designed by Lea Gottlieb will have much to gain from viewing the exhibition.

 Dogi-banner500x80

 

FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

TOP TO BOTTOM: panties knitted with human hair

 

SWEDISH website Expressen reported that local designer Nina Sparr has produced panties knitted with yarn spun from 100 per cent human hair donated by hair salons as well as by her customers. The designer admits that the human hair panties are unlikely to be commercialized because they were found scratchy and uncomfortable when tested by models.

Human-hairunderwear220

Another reason for not commercializing the panties could be that, because the hair was donated by many different people, it was impossible for the washing instructions to recommend a specific brand of shampoo.

  NUREL-banner500x80      

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*

Anti-spam check (Confirm that you are a human being) : *