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Full text issue week 20-2016

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 20-2016

Summary of news published since Week 19-2016

jpa4Sibil220THE STRIKING progress reported by Lenzing for its first quarter of 2016 provides convincing evidence that cellulosic fibres, especially premium specialities, are finding ever stronger support from professionals and consumers. The advances achieved at a time when record low oil prices have made rival fibres more competitive are a tribute to the intrinsic qualities, including environmental elements, of cellulosic fibres. It is true that cotton remains a widely recommended fibre for underwear, but that is largely because consumers, and many self-appointed experts, remain unaware of the extent to which the environmental qualities of cotton have been over-estimated. As both the functional and environmental qualities of cellulosic fibres become more widely recognized, they are likely to play an ever more important role on the bodywear scene, at the expense of cotton.

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

TRENDS: beachwear trends analysed

EU: consumer confidence levels researched

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

LENZING: stronger Q1 sales reported

LAUMA FABRICS: 2015 sales slumped 24 per cent

EUROJERSEY: fabrics for A/W 2017/18 presented

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

PARAH: diversifies into activewear

RITRATTI: world’s lightest lingerie set launched

ORLEBAR BROWN: personalized boxers proposed

ORGANIC BASICS: silver added to underwear

ULTIMO: more shapewear added to range

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

ADORE ME: promotional methods criticized

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

PETER HORVATH: given key post at AEO

MICHAEL TOPLISS: helms sales of Wood Underwear

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EXHIBITIONS– what to see and where to trade

 

MAREDIMODA: 15th edition aims to inspire

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

REVENGE: wife poisons husband’s underpants

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

TRENDS: beachwear trends analyzed

 

THE LATEST report published by Concepts Paris, the only source of design trends focused exclusively on lingerie and beachwear, analyses fashion directions for the coming seasons. Among the more significant predictions of the report titled Creative Beachwear are greater coverage for two-piece swimsuits, a closer focus on fuller cup sizes and further blurring of the distinction between lingerie and swimwear.

Concepts Paris

Concepts Paris

Though restricted to subscribers, the report promises to influence strongly beachwear designs for S/S 2017 and beyond.

 

See also:

CONCEPTS PARIS: new website created

FASHION: Paris scene interpreted in bodywear terms

 

EU: consumer confidence levels researched

 

A RECENT report from research organisation GfK finds that economic uncertainty is sapping the confidence of European consumers. Its long-running Consumer Confidence Index declined by three points in April 2016 as all the measures used to calculate the index sagged that month. GfK Head of Market Dynamics Joe Staton said: “Mixed-messages about a post-Brexit world and the on-going Eurozone crisis are casting a cloud over our economy. After a continuous 15-month showing of positive numbers in the barometer, April 2016 sees the UK drop back into negative territory with a -3 score. The biggest dent to confidence comes from consumers’ depression about the general economic situation in the UK for the next year, dropping 20 points in 12 months. Against this backdrop, even faith in our personal economic fortunes has taken a battering contributing to the overall fall in the numbers. Trends in confidence show our degree of optimism about the state of the economy and this indicator will make for interesting reading between now and the EU referendum on June 23rd.”

Chantelle

Chantelle

Historically, underwear is less vulnerable to declines in consumer confidence than other types of clothing. Nevertheless, the strength of the negative impact of a possible Brexit could well cause demand for lingerie to weaken.

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

LENZING: stronger Q1 sales reported

 

LEADING world supplier of cellulose fibre Lenzing reported first quarter sales up by 8.1 per cent year on year, to EUR 512.8m. This boosted almost three-fold the profit for the period, to EUR 44.1m. EBITDA also improved considerably, by 54.7 per cent to EUR 92.2m, boosting the margin to 18 per cent against 12.6 per cent a year earlier. CEO Stefan Doboczky commented: “We are proud that we have got off to a very good start in the year 2016. The new Group strategy sCore TEN with its clear focus on profitable growth is taking hold. We are implementing the strategy very disciplined, which is having a noticeable effect on earnings already. Initial progress has also been made in managing our trading working capital. Assuming that the overall business environment remains unchanged, I continue to expect a substantial improvement in earnings for the entire financial year 2016.” Click here for more details on the period’s results.

Lenzing

Lenzing

The excellent start to 2016 underlines also the steadily growing importance to the company of speciality premium fibres.

 

See also:

LENZING: A/W 2017/18 colour trends revealed

LENZING: eco performance recognized

LENZING: new group strategy unveiled

 

LAUMA FABRICS: 2015 sales slumped 24 per cent

 

LATVIAN producer of underwear fabrics and laces Lauma Fabrics is reported to have suffered a 24 per cent sales decline in 2015 when its revenue dropped to EUR 29.2m. In 2016, the company expects to generate sales of EUR 32.73m and plans investments worth EUR 0.8m. Besides domestic customers, the company serves manufacturers in Belarus, Ukraine, Poland, Russia and France.

Lauma Fabrics

Lauma Fabrics

A year ago, Lauma Fabrics had predicted that its 2015 sales would reach over EUR 42m. It has clearly not recovered from the negative effects of management changes made in 2013. 

 

See also:

LAUMA FABRICS: lower sales slashed 2014 profits

 

EUROJERSEY: fabrics for A/W 2017/18 presented

 

THE ITALIAN knitter that produces the Sensitive® range of fabrics, Eurojersey, presented its new collection of lingerie fabrics for A/W 2017/18. Fabric designs and concepts range from basic styles to more romantic looks and from a sporty-leisure fit to the freedom of the groovy ‘70s, not forgetting the contemporary appeal of a sexy androgynous woman, says the company.

Sensitive® by Eurojersey

Sensitive® by Eurojersey

Assuming, as we believe, that sexy androgynous women appeal mainly to androgynous men, greater emphasis might have been placed on other design concepts.

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

PARAH: diversifies into activewear

 

LEADING Italian swimwear and lingerie brand Parah teamed up with Margherita Mazzei to develop a collection of activewear under the designer’s name. The new range features a nylon micro-fibre fabric incorporating a metallic additive that converts the thermal energy of the body into infra-red radiation which provides warmth and reduces tiredness. The company says that the fabric retains its beneficial qualities even after numerous wash cycles.

Parah

Parah

Parah is only the latest bodywear specialist to propose a collection of activewear, thus confirming the strength of the diversification trend within the industry.

 

See also:

PARAH: debts cleared at creditors’ expense

PARAH: new factory store also serves neighbours

 

RITRATTI: world’s lightest lingerie set launched

 

UNDER the label Ritratti Piuma, Italian lingerie brand Ritratti launched a lingerie set claimed to be the lightest in the world. With slightly more than 3 gr for the panties and 18 gr for the bra, the set was developed in the Tex-Zeta model-making unit in Carvico. It is available in six colours, plus black and white.

Piuma by Ritratti

Piuma by Ritratti

Most consumers that have access to the product are likely to buy it and, if satisfied, to adopt it permanently.

 

ORLEBAR BROWN: personalized boxers proposed

 

THROUGH the use of the #Snapshorts app, buyers of boxers from British luxury brand Orlebar Brown are offered the opportunity of personalizing their purchases with the photo, drawing and graphic designs of their choice. The selected motif can be stretched, enlarged or reduced to create a genuinely personalized design and the OB Classic swim boxers are offered in four different lengths. Delivery of finished products is made within three weeks, at a cost of GBP 395, and each boxer carries a 5-year guarantee.

Orlebar Brown

Orlebar Brown

It remains to be seen whether demand for such genuinely personalized garments justifies the high price demanded.

 

ORGANIC BASICS: silver added to underwear

 

UNDER the SilverTech label, Danish bodywear concern Organic Basics is launching a line of underwear that features a silver coating chemically bonded to polyester yarn that is then blended with organic cotton. The brand claims that the thermal conductivity of the silver element also helps to regulate body temperature. A Kickstarter fund raising campaign has been launched to finance production of T-shirts and socks as well as underpants.

Organic Basics

Organic Basics

Though some years have elapsed since the launch of the first underwear range exploiting the antimicrobial qualities of silver, the relatively high price of the products has prevented them from achieving the market share they merit.

 

See also:

FULGAR: Q-Skin yarn adopted by major brand

DOW: antimicrobial now certified Bluesign

MACK WELDON: e-tailer backed by venture capital

 

ULTIMO: more shapewear added to range

 

MAJOR British lingerie brand Ultimo has added two new shapewear collections to its product range. The Signature collection consists of a body, high brief and skort in a breathable lightweight fabric that provides smoothing and light control. The Contour collection features flat seams for comfort and invisibility as well as soft fabrics that provide medium control. It comprises a slip, a half-slip and high Brazilian briefs. Both collections are priced at GBP 36 in the UK.

Ultimo

Ultimo

The broadening of the shapewear offer suggests that previous collections met with significant success.

 

See also:

ULTIMO: side-fastening bra proposed

ULTIMO: UK brand opens first store concessions

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

ADORE ME: promotional methods criticized

 

SUBSCRIPTION lingerie distributor Adore Me in the US has been criticized for its advertising approach and billing practices. Following nearly 700 customer complaints and an F rating from the Better Business Bureau (BBB), a consumer protection group filed an official complaint with the responsible authorities. The complaint alleges that Adore Me engages in deceptive advertising and illegal billing practices. According to Truth in Advertising (TINA), the company advertises a bra and panty set for USD 24,95 without making it clear that customers only get the low price if they sign up for a VIP membership at an annual cost of USD 39.95.

Adore Me

Adore Me

The fallout from such a criticism can easily wipe out any gain made from the lower price offer and the damage to a company’s reputation can take years to overcome.

 

See also:

ADORE ME: physical store to open in New York

ADORE ME: E-tailer reports meteoric growth

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities                                      

 

PETER HORVATH: given key post at AEO

 

THE US distribution group that operates the aerie underwear chain, American Eagle Outfitters (AEO) announced the appointment of Peter Horvath as Chief Global Commercial and Administrative Officer. Horvath formerly held a top procurement post with the US administration; earlier, he had been COO of L Brands.

 

MICHAEL TOPLISS: helms sales of Wood Underwear

 

US BODYWEAR brand, Wood Underwear, appointed Michael Topliss as its new Global Head of Sales. Topliss comes from the France-based Pullin underwear concern where he had been Vice President Sales and Marketing since 2014. Earlier, he had been General Manager of Saxx Underwear.

Michael Topliss

Michael Topliss

 

 

EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

MAREDIMODA: 15th edition aims to inspire

 

SCHEDULED for 8 to 10 November 2016 in the Palais des Festivals in Cannes, the 15th edition of the MarediModa salon for swimwear fabrics and production accessories calls for potential visitors to “get inspired”. As we go to press however, no further details have been revealed.

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Even if it were not inspiring, the comprehensive range of fabrics and design sources featured in the salon continues to make it a must for all swimwear manufacturers.

 

See also:

MAREDIMODA: trend team designated

MAREDIMODA: trends S/S 2017

MAREDIMODA: positive results achieved in Munich

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

REVENGE: wife poisons husband’s underpants

 

FOLLOWING a quarrel with her husband, a woman in China soaked her husband’s underpants in poison and dried them in the sun before giving them to him. The man went to a doctor when his genitals began to putrefy and he had trouble breathing. It took three weeks, including two in intensive care, for him to be cured.

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This is further confirmation that hell has no fury like a woman scorned.

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