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Full text issue week 21-2016

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 21-2016 

Summary of news published since Week 20-2016

jpa4Sibil220THIS WEEK’S story of how two brands, one in the US and another in Europe, joined forces to create a new label for shaping swimwear well merits the attention of manufacturers on both sides of the Atlantic. By collaborating instead of competing, the associated brands are creating synergies and building strengths that promise faster and stronger growth than either could expect when operating alone. Obviously, such partnerships are impossible when they involve similar core products, but, when applied to a product that broadens their existing ranges, the benefits of collaboration are many. They include shared development and launch costs as well as an exchange of marketing know-how that can help sales to develop more rapidly. Most important, the lessons learned in a partnership for one product can be applied to other products that broaden yet further the partners’ ranges, thus boosting sales and profit even more. In other words, an efficient alliance can allow brands to learn more so as to earn more.

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

UK: online lingerie sales maintain strong growth

FRANCE: in clothing sales slumped April

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

DOGI: weaker sales raise Q1 loss

RATTI: Q1 sales slip by 4 per cent

BRUGNOLI: honoured by Interfilière salon

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

ELITE SPORTSWEAR: incorporates Dolfin swimwear

LASCIVIOUS: first swimwear collection proposed

ALL SWIM: start-up broadens product range

FELISSIMO: lingerie lines inspired by children’s tales

BLUEBELLA: first hosiery collection launched

BJÖRN BORG: all of UK sales company acquired

MIRADONNA: transatlantic deal creates new brand

UNDER ARMOUR: first move made into Italy

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

BE-BRIEF: more brands added to assortment

YAMAMAY: new shapewear capsule presented

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

TOM HELLEBERG: joins Saxx to helm global sales

MARCO DIPPE: resigns from Esprit wholesale post

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

FRAGRANCE: lingerie store objects to neighbour

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

UK: online lingerie sales maintain strong growth

 

ACCORDING to the latest IMRG Capgemini eRetail Sales Index, UK online sales of lingerie in April 2016 shot up by 19 per cent against the preceding month and by 32 per cent year-on-year. During the same period, online sales of all products rose by 11 per cent year-on-year.

Ultimo

Ultimo

The strong performance of lingerie in the UK that month supports our prediction that the Internet is destined to become a major channel for lingerie sales worldwide.

 

See also:

LINGERIE: strong growth of online sales predicted

SPAIN: online sales of clothing rise sharply

ITALY: stronger online sales of bodywear reported

 

FRANCE: clothing sales slumped in April

 

AS THE Institut français de la mode (Ifm) resumed revealing details of apparel consumption in France, its report on April 2016 trade showed a year-on-year decline of 6.5 per cent in retail sales of apparel. Hyper and supermarkets fared worse, with a decline of 14 per cent while sales of specialized chains were 5 per cent lower. In the first four months of 2016, sales of apparel in France had dipped by 1.1 per cent against the same period a year earlier.

Chantelle

Chantelle

Though figures from other sources may show otherwise, it is unlikely that sales of innerwear performed as disappointingly as outerwear.

 

See also:

FRANCE: value of local lingerie market quantified

FRANCE: lingerie consumer spending analysed

FRANCE: clothing sales strengthened in October

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 SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

DOGI: weaker sales raise Q1 loss

 

BODYWEAR fabrics producer Dogi announced first quarter results that showed sales down by 3.3 per cent, to EUR 10.6m, as a 1.7 per cent sales rise by the Spanish company failed to offset the 5 per cent decline suffered by the EFA subsidiary in the US. Although EBITDA for the period rose to EUR 95’000, the net loss rose to EUR 0.87m against EUR 0.83m a year earlier. Private Equity owner Sherpa Capital said that talks were in progress with potential joint venture partners in regions where the company has no significant presence.

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In 2015, the US operation had made steady progress while the parent company in Spain struggled towards recovery. The first quarter reversal of the situation could possibly prove a turning point in the development of the business.

 

See also:

DOGI: revised 2015 accounts show reduced loss

DOGI: capital increase oversubscribed

DOGI: growth ambitions defined

 

RATTI: Q1 sales slip by 4 per cent

 

ITALIAN producer of luxury fabrics Ratti, that also proposes a collection of swimwear fabrics, declared first quarter results that showed a 4.2 per cent decline in sales, to EUR 19.7m. This caused EBITDA to be cut by half, to EUR 0.8m, as net profit was slashed to EUR 48’000 from EUR 0.74m a year earlier. The sales decline was attributed to weaker demand for the products of a number of customers making luxury apparel.

Ratti

Ratti

Although Italy remains a major market for luxury merchandise, the growing doubts concerning the country’s economic prospects puts a question mark against future developments.

 

See also:

RATTI: earnings rise despite stagnant sales

RATTI: 2014 sales dip narrowed profit

 

BRUGNOLI: honoured by Interfilière salon

 

ITALIAN fabric knitter Brugnoli was named Designer of the Year 2016 in the category Swimwear by bodywear production supplies trade fair Interfilière. The citation emphasizes the importance of the company’s developments and investments in the use of high-tech raw materials as well as in the creation of highly sophisticated fabrics for swimwear, lingerie, sportswear and other fashion end-uses.

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In contrast to other recipients of the award in past years, Brugnoli has not been reported to be facing problems of viability, which sets a welcome precedent.

 

See also:

BRUGNOLI: collection with EVO yarns presented

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 THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

ELITE SPORTSWEAR: incorporates Dolfin swimwear

 

US PRIVATE equity firm Riverside Co., that owns the Elite Swimwear business, acquired Jade Swimwear, parent company of the Dolfin Swimwear label. The terms of the deal were not revealed. Riverside partner Karen Pajarillo commented: “The companies share similar targeted end user demographics, and we think their collective expertise in R&D and design will yield continued product improvements and exciting growth opportunities across the businesses.”

Dolfin Swimwear

Dolfin Swimwear

If the acquisition yields the projected results, it promises to boost the profitability of Riverside’s future exit.

 

LASCIVIOUS: first swimwear collection proposed

 

BRITISH lingerie brand Lascivious unveiled its first collection of swimwear that is being launched on the brand’s online store on May 18. The swimwear is said to reflect the contemporary design of the label’s lingerie collection, with innovative cut-outs and intricate detailing.

Lascivious

Lascivious

Founded in 2004, the lingerie collection has established itself in many important markets, which should allow sales of the new swimwear range to grow rapidly.

 

ALL SWIM: start-up broadens product range

 

FOUNDED in 2015 with a capital of EUR 75’000 Barcelona-based swimwear brand All Swim announced the broadening of its product range. In May 2016, it added men’s swimwear to its women’s range and said it would shortly offer a line of beachwear accessories. The brand is also planning to open its first pop-up store on Ibiza during the summer. It has launched a wholesale operation in Spain to complement its online store and has opened its first retail account in Greece. The company proposes two ranges, one that targets young women who use social networks and another for more mature women who tend to know brands through word of mouth.

All Swim

All Swim

The concept of proposing two ranges targeting different consumer segments under a single label has its pros and cons. While the single brand favours broader recognition of the label, the two different consumer segments it targets tend to blur its identity as perceived by customers.

 

FELISSIMO: lingerie lines inspired by children’s tales

 

JAPANESE lingerie brand Felissimo presented a series of bra and panties sets inspired by famous children’s tales. The sets’ designs relate to Snow White, Little Red Riding Hood and Little Mermaid. There is also a Cleopatra set as well as sets inspired by feline characters. The company justifies its choice of inspiration by claiming that every woman has a secret wish to become a heroine.

Snow White by Felissimo

Snow White by Felissimo

We now eagerly await news that a men’s underwear brand has launched a collection inspired by Garfield.

 

BLUEBELLA: first hosiery collection launched

 

BRITISH boudoir lingerie brand Bluebella presented its first collection of hosiery. Inspired by classic hosiery styles and designed to complement the label’s lingerie and nightwear products, the hosiery line features sheer, fishnet and seamed designs in classic black or nude.

Bluebella

Bluebella

The blurb sounds promising but, in practice, there are very few lingerie design features that can be adapted successfully to hosiery design.   

 

See also:

BLUEBELLA: sales collaboration agreement concluded

 

BJÖRN BORG: all of UK sales company acquired

 

THE MEN’S underwear brand that exploits the name of former tennis star Björn Borg announced that it has acquired the 80 per cent of its UK sales company it did not already own. The former UK sales manager Neil Smith remains at the helm of the operation under the title of Country Manager UK. Björn Borg CEO Henrik Bunge commented: “We have now taken yet another step to cut the distance between the Björn Borg headquarters and the end consumer. Integration is crucial to understand and consequently make a difference for consumers on our different markets”.

Björn Borg

Björn Borg

Its assuming of full control over the UK sales company reflects the brand’s move towards fuller vertical integration.

 

See also :

BJÖRN BORG: new range features skin tones

BJÖRN BORG: capsule vintage collection launched

BJÖRN BORG: first half sales and profit declined

 

MIRADONNA: transatlantic deal creates new brand

 

US SHAPING swimwear brand Miracle Suit and Italian swimwear group AFS joined forces to create a new moulding swimwear brand. Labelled Miradonna, the brand is said to combine functional shaping features with fashionable Mediterranean design. The first collection is to be shown at Lyon Mode City trade show in July and at the Moda show in the UK a month later.

Miradonna

Miradonna

The new label marks the entry of the Italian partner into the field of shaping swimwear.

 

UNDER ARMOUR: first move made into Italy

 

US FUNCTIONAL underwear brand Under Armour concluded an agreement with the Oberalp group in Italy that covers wholesale operations there as well as the opening of 20 standalone retail stores in the seven years from 2017 to 2023. The Italian partner is committed to invest EUR 50m over seven years on advertising, events, sponsoring and other promotional activities for the US label. Currently, foreign sales account for only 11 per cent of the US brand’s turnover that is expected to reach USD 5bn in 2016. By 2020, the brand hopes to raise its sales to USD 11bn, of which USD 1bn is expected to be generated in Europe.

Under Armour

Under Armour

Even when expansion of the market is taken into account, the European growth objectives of the US label are unlikely to be achieved without winning sales volume from established brands on the old continent.

 

See also:

UNDER ARMOUR: growth in Europe accelerates

UNDER ARMOUR: sales rights in Spain renegotiated

UNDER ARMOUR: new sports bra range launched

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

BE-BRIEF: more brands added to assortment

 

US ONLINE distributor of men’s underwear Be-Brief announced that 11 new brands have been added to its assortment recently, boosting to over 40 the number of labels proposed. The e-tailer added that the recently added brands have helped to create new categories including, for example, cock ring underwear, enhancing underwear, lace and sheer underwear with styles such as g-strings, thongs and many others.

Be-Brief

Be-Brief

Like all online distributors of men’s underwear, Be-Brief proposes many styles that appear to target the gay market, which provides further evidence that such men influence strongly innerwear fashion innovation.

 

YAMAMAY: new shapewear capsule presented

 

MAJOR Italian bodywear retail chain Yamamay presented a capsule shapewear collection of beachwear products featuring Sensitive® Sculpt yarn from Eurojersey. The capsule comprises eight pieces, including one-piece and two-piece swimsuits as well as cover-ups, available in black and coral. The capsule is advertised with photos featuring former supermodel Naomi Campbell photographed by Mario Testino.

Yamamay

Yamamay

Promoting the capsule with Naomi Campbell could prove risky since consumers of her generation might be discouraged from buying the garments after comparing their body with that of the late 1980s supermodel.

 

See also:

YAMAMAY: first store opened in Germany

YAMAMAY: new beach concept launched in Spain

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

TOM HELLEBERG: joins Saxx to helm global sales

 

FAST expanding North American brand Saxx Underwear announced the appointment of Tom Helleberg to the post of International Sales Director. Most recently, Helleberg was VP International Sales for SPY Optic and brings to his new appointment over 20 years of experience of expanding brands internationally.

Tom Helleberg

Tom Helleberg

MARCO DIPPE: resigns from Esprit wholesale post

 

LEISUREWEAR and bodywear distribution chain Esprit reported that its Senior VP Wholesale, Marco Dippe, resigned from the post he had held since April 2014 to develop other career opportunities.

Marco Dippe

Marco Dippe

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

FRAGRANCE: lingerie store objects to neighbour

 

BRITISH lingerie brand Bravissimo filed an objection concerning a bakery that proposed to open next to its retail store in Belfast. The lingerie company feared that the smell of sausage rolls, pies and other baked dishes would permeate its inventory, making it difficult to sell.

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Women wearers might object but some men could well be turned on by bras featuring appetizing savoury odours.

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