Home | Others | Full text Issue Week 25-2015

Full text Issue Week 25-2015

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 25-2015

 Summary of news published during week 24-2015

  jpa4Sibil220THE MOVE made by the Esprit chain to reward its franchisees when a holder of their fidelity card makes a purchase from the brand’s online store deserves to be copied by all networks of franchised stores. But, at a time when fidelity cards and information technology have become commonplace, it should be possible for brands to reward similarly their wholesale customers. Many brands that could benefit from doing so have chosen not to open an online store because they fear antagonizing their retail partners. Such fears prevent the brand from gaining extra strength and cause it to miss out on many sales opportunities now that so many purchases are being made online with smartphones and tablets. Now that Esprit has shown the way, all brands can benefit from a better exploitation of the online channel.  

Jean-Pierre Adeline    

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

STYLING: London GFW shows reviewed

UK: unseasonable weather slowed May sales

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

  DOGI: growth ambitions defined  

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

LA PERLA: refurbished New York store re-opened

GILDAN: retail underwear market targeted

BUMBRELLA: new versions being considered

VILEBREQUIN: growth objectives quantified

BOSOM GALORE: size and style ranges expanded

IPANEMA: swimwear line to launch in Germany  

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DISTRIBUTION: evolution of chains and channels

 

 ESPRIT: franchisees given share in online sales

HUNKEMOLLER: more stores to open in Spain

DAILYJOCKS: founder reveals elements of success

ETAM: DIY lingerie design proposed

CLOVIA: Indian e-tailerplans global expansion  

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PEOPLE: corporate personalities

 

 DELPHINE WHARMBY: to manage Ifm marketing

HENRIK FISCHER: resigns as Björn Borg COO  

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

 SUPREME: next edition is fully booked

IFL SHANGHAI: new features revealed  

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

EB PANTIES: for sale at USD 7’500  

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

  STYLING: London GFW shows reviewed  

LONDON shows featuring the bodywear creations of local fashion school graduateson the occasion of the Graduate Fashion Week are featured in the latest report from specialist bodyfashion consultants Concepts Paris. The report features eight trend boards describing the major design directions identified, supported by many images of individual fashion details, providing evidence of a strong trend towards the hand-crafted look with an abundance of hand embroidery, crochet and knitting. The report also indicates how graduates experimented with new technologies and creative material mixes. Concepts-Paris220 The world influence wielded by London art colleges, and the impact of former graduates on the bodyfashion scene, make the information contained in this report of inestimable value for designers and top executives of intimate apparel and swimwear brands.  

 

UK: unseasonable weather slowed May sales  

UK RETAIL sales in May were described as disappointingly flat by the British Retail Consortium (BRC) that reported for that month a rise of only 1.1 per cent, with clothing sales being among the worst performing. BRC Director General Helen Dickinson commented: : “May witnessed a slow-down in sales growth, below the three-month and twelve-month average. This was mainly due to fashion sales, which experienced a decline compared with the same month last year, where we saw record demand.” The decline in clothing sales is attributed to cool weather in May that led consumers to put off the updating of their summer wardrobes.

Ultimo

Ultimo

It is probable that the cool weather also dampened demand for intimate apparel as well as for swimwear.  

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

  DOGI: growth ambitions defined

THE PRESIDENT of Sherpa Capital, Eduardo Navarro, told trade media that the Dogi textile concern had not been acquired with a view to it remaining in business with annual sales of around EUR 45m. The acquisition was made, he said, to grow the company back into a reference player in its category. Now that the new management had gone some way to re-structuring the company, it was concentrating on reducing costs, with savings of EUR 0.26m in the Spanish plant being the objective this year. Mr Navarro said that the same measures that had allowed the US subsidiary Elastic Fabrics of America (EFA) to realize savings of EUR 0.65m last year were to be implemented at the El Masnou mill. He reaffirmed that the longer-term objective was to drive growth through acquisitions and joint ventures.

Dogi

Dogi

The EFA cost cutting measures included the dismissal of 12 workers, which local labour laws would make difficult in Spain. But there is little doubt that other means can be found to reduce costs there.

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

  LA PERLA: refurbished New York store re-opened

DESIGNED by Italian architect Roberto Baciocchi, who conceived all Prada and Miu Miu boutiques, the refurbished La Perla flagship store in New York’s Madison Avenue re-opened recently. The second floor of the boutique is reserved for VIP customers, for customized garments and for ateliers collections. The re-opening follows the recent opening of new stores in San Francisco and Atlanta and precedes the openings in Houston and Chicago that are scheduled for autumn 2015. La-Perla220

Because La Perla is a private company that is not obliged to publish details of its financial results, the extent to which the strategy of opening exclusive retail boutiques has helped its wholesale business to expand will be difficult to assess.  

 

GILDAN: retail underwear market targeted  

FORMERLY focused more closely on wholesale operations in the US, Gildan is accelerating its expansion in the field of retail marketing. Since its first foray into retailing in 2013, the company says it has won 7 per cent of the US market for men’s underwear thanks to advertising directed specifically at its target consumers: millenials aged 22 to 35. More recently, Gildan has ben running a TV spot aimed at women and promoting its sustainably-produced basics.

Gildan

Gildan

Over the past years, Gildan has achieved an impressive rate of growth in the wholesale sector and it probably has what it takes to win a similar success in the retail field.  

 

BUMBRELLA: new versions being considered  

INTERVIEWED by US trade publication Apparel Magazine, Bumbrella founder Tara Gallagher reviewed the progress achieved since she launched the combined panty and underskirt late last year (click here to see our report). She said that a boy short version was shortly to go into production to complement the original hipster and thong options and that a version with a longer underskirt was also being considered. Other projects include a children’s line, a maternity version and a broader range of colours as well as plus sizes. Gallagher added that current sales were split about equally between wholesale and online direct-to-consumer but said that she’d like to concentrate on developing the wholesale business in the future.

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Bumbrella

Despite the difficulties of introducing not only a new product but also a new concept in the field of innerwear, the project appears to meet a consumer need and it deserves to succeed.

 

VILEBREQUIN: growth objectives quantified  

FRENCH luxury beachwear label Vilebrequin said that it planned to open six more retail stores before the end of this year. Three are to be in the USA and the others in Qatar, Dubai and Jakarta. In 2016, the brand will make its entry into Africa, with new stores planned in South Africa and Angola. Although 200 Vilebrequin stores are now to be found in 55 countries, the label’s major market is the USA, which accounts for a third of its sales and where annual growth is around 15 to 20 per cent. Currently, men’s swimwear accounts for 75 per cent of sales but it is expected that the proportion will have declined to 50 per cent within two years as sales of women’s and children’s swimwear continue to grow. By then, the company’s annual sales are expected to have reached EUR 100m.

Vilebrequin

Vilebrequin

Judging from its track record of recent years, world sales are likely to continue growing apace even after the EUR 100m milestone has been reached.

 

BOSOM GALORE: size and style ranges expanded

BRITISH start-up Bosom Galore, that specializes in luxury small band bras in larger cup sizes, revealed plans to expand both its style and size ranges over the coming months and years. The size expansion begins in July 2015 with the launch of the Classique Balconette bra in sizes 26DD and 28D to 34H. Later, there will be the launch of a new style, a strappy set labelled Louise in the same size range. In response to customer requests, the Sophia line of non-padded lace balconette bras in sizes up to 34K is being developed, together with coordinated suspender belt and two styles of panties. Plans for 2016 include the label’s first collections of swimwear, maternity and nightwear. Founder Katy Payne commented: “We feel that the direction of Bosom Galore should be customer led and we are delighted that people have actively contacted us to tell us what they want from their lingerie”.

Bosom Galore

Bosom Galore

As the range is being tweaked progressively to meet special needs, its ability to attract new customers should continue to increase.  

 

IPANEMA: swimwear line to launch in Germany  

IN PARTNERSHIP with its German distributor Palm Beach, that produces and markets its own swimwear range, Brazilian flip-flop label Ipanema is to diversify into swimwear. The first collection, being prepared for S/S 2016, will consist of some 50 pieces including beachwear items as well as one-piece and two-piece swimsuits. Initially, distribution is to be limited to Germany.

Palm Beach

Palm Beach

Since Ipanema footwear already enjoys broad distribution in Europe, the swimwear line could well expand its distribution quite rapidly if it proves successful in Germany.

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DISTRIBUTION: evolution of chains and channels

 

  ESPRIT: franchisees given share in online sales

INTERNATIONAL leisurewear chain Esprit, which includes innerwear in its assortment, unveiled a new concept under which franchisees receive commission on online purchases made by consumers. Operators of the 1’258 stores franchised by the brand will receive a commission, of around 5 per cent according to the value of the basket, on purchases made through the brand’s e-commerce when the consumer signals a fidelity card issued by the franchisee. Esprit said that about 6m fidelity cards are held by consumers worldwide. To enhance the effectiveness of its online store, Esprit plans to introduce click & collect, online ordering, inventory management and communications related to e-commerce.

Esprit

Esprit

This move, which deserves to be adopted by all franchised chains, could help Esprit to recover from the setbacks it has suffered in recent years.  

 

HUNKEMOLLER: more stores to open in Spain  

NETHERLANDS-based lingerie chain Hunkemöller said that it expected to open a further four stores in Spain this year, after its latest opening in Tarragona, bringing to 20 the total of its shops there. Worldwide, the chain that currently operates 600 stores plans to raise the total to 900 within the coming two years. It also plans to expand its wholesale activities to a volume equivalent to 10 per cent of its turnover while it grows its e-commerce site to reach annual sales of EUR 10m by 2017.

Hunkemöller

Hunkemöller

The quality and value of its collections make its objectives eminently achievable and promise yet further expansion.

 

 DAILYJOCKS: founder reveals elements of success  

AUSTRALIAN subscription service for men’s underwear DailyJocks was created in 2012 and signed up 2’000 subscribers within its first month. It went on to boost its sales to AUD 1.5m in 2014 and expects to reach AUD 2.5m this year. Founder Nicholas Egonidis told the local trade press that social media had proved a critical element of the service’s success. He explained: “For me, that was priceless – getting people’s ongoing feedback really shaped what we were doing. People need to accept is social media might start free but it’s never free if you want a really big response. Companies need to make it part of their marketing budget and be prepared to spend money on advertising.” Egonidis also warned that the subscription model could be cash flow intensive as rapid growth could require increasingly greater inventory. DailyJocks220 DailyJocks distributes branded merchandise rather than a private label collection, but the comment on cash flow requirements remains valid for both options.  

 

ETAM:DIY lingerie design proposed  

UNDER the title Edition Privée French lingerie chain Etam is launching on 15 June an online service that allows consumers to create their own personalized innerwear styles. Shoppers can choose between four styles of bras and two cuts of panties and select from a predetermined range of colours, fabrics, laces, trimmings and accessories. Delivery time will be around three weeks and garments will be delivered in special packaging that reflects the high-end status of the products. The price range has not yet been specified.

Etam

Etam

The launch of this service confirms our often repeated statement that there is considerable latent demand for personalized innerwear.

 

CLOVIA:Indiane-tailerplans global expansion  

AFTER securing an undisclosed amount of series A funding from venture capital fund IvyCap Ventures, Indian lingerie and sleepwear e-tailer Clovia cited global expansion, alongside product development, marketing and fulfilment capacity as investment objectives. The brand, that distributes the private label range it produces, formerly operated under the Moods of Cloe label and specializes in the premium price sector.

Clovia

Clovia

This operation follows several other rounds of financing by different local e-tailers and confirms the outstanding growth potential of this distribution channel in India.

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PEOPLE: corporate personalities

 

  DELPHINE WHARMBY: to manage Ifm marketing  

FORMERLY PR manager of the HEC business school in France, Delphine Wharmby was appointed Marketing and Communications Manager of the Institut français de la mode (Ifm). A graduate of the University of Kent in the UK and of Université Paris 1, Ms Wharmby has a long experience of communications in the academic field.

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Delphine Wharmby

  HENRIK FISCHER: resigns as Björn Borg COO  

SWEDISH underwear brand Björn Borg announced the resignation of Henrik Fisher from his current posts of COO and vice-CEO, effective 30 June 2015. Fischer had been appointed COO of the brand in 2008 and will not be replaced because the current business plan involves the abolition of the posts he held.

Henrik Fischer

Henrik Fischer

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EXHIBITIONSwhat to see and where to trade

 

SUPREME: next edition is fully booked  

 

THE ORGANIZERS of the Supreme Body&Beach salon announced that, with six weeks to go, the next edition scheduled for 26 to 28 July in Munich is already fully booked. Project Manager Bernadette Schreimel commented: “We are very excited about this extremely positive response and want Supreme Body&Beach to make a statement. First and foremost, we are planning to set an exceptional stage for lingerie and beachwear, which play such a key role in summer. And of course we want to create a great, relaxed atmosphere for buyers, visitors, and exhibitors. We are expecting approximately 375 brands – some agencies have added new brands to their portfolio, so the decision-making process is still going on. 
There will be a number of exciting new exhibitors that will make their German debuts at Supreme Body&Beach, including Chicago-based luxury night style label mia piuma, who will present their collection made of superior Italian silk.” Other first time exhibitors include Brunotti, Ama Swimwear and Rochas. Supremeb&b220 The announcement provides further evidence of the growing importance of the event within the context of the German market.  

 

IFL SHANGHAI: new features revealed  

 

THE ELEVENTH edition of the Interfilière Shanghai salon for bodywear production supplies, to be staged on 12 and 13 October 2015 in the Shanghai Exhibition Center, will be marked by the introduction of a number of new features. The seven sectors of the show are to be renamed as at the Paris edition, one of the two separate trend forums will cover only beachwear while the other will be devoted to intimates, loungewear and sportswear while the two major world suppliers of elastane yarns, Invista and Hyosung, will each have their own separate pavilion featuring Lycra and creora fibres. Finally, in addition to the full seminar programme covering key elements of the market, the workshop programme has been refined to cover Trend for Sales and Marketing, Trend for Designers and Brand Building. In 2014, the salon featured 275 exhibitors and attracted 7’300 visitors from 53 countries, of which 76 per cent came from Mainland China.

Interfilière Shanghai

Interfilière Shanghai

Indications are that this year’s edition will show further growth in terms of both exhibitors and attendance.  

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

  EB PANTIES: for sale at USD 7’500  

IN THIS CASE, EB stands for Eva Braun, Hitler’s mistress for many years and his wife for a few minutes, rather than for Exceptional Bargain. Online publication The Daily Beast reported that a store in a small town in Ohio displayed for sale at USD 7’500 a pair of silk knickers embroidered with the raised monogram EB, which it is claimed had once belonged to Eva Braun. The story that goes with the price tag is that the panties were originally stolen from Hitler’s retreat in Berchtesgaden by a GI at the end of the war and brought back to the US by him.

Eva Braun knickers

Eva Braun knickers

We wonder how soon we can report that a pair of linen panties embroidered with a JA monogram is for sale in the UK, having been brought back from Orleans by a British archer who stole it from Joan of Arc.

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