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Full text issue week 27-2015

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 27-2015

 Summary of news published during week 26-2015

jpa4Sibil220THIS week, for the first time, bodywear fabric specialist Dogi revealed and quantified a number of the objectives set after its acquisition by investment fund Sherpa Capital. Presumably regarded as achievable, these objectives will make the Spanish knitting concern, together with its EFA subsidiary in the US, into the Western world’s largest supplier of bodywear fabrics, even though the later stages of its expansion plan will extend its activity into fields other than intimate apparel. Since demand for bodywear fabrics is likely to grow less rapidly than the projected sales of the company, it will need to win market share from other producers to achieve its objectives. To what extent, and how it does so, remains to be seen but the end result is likely to be the failure of one or more European suppliers. Consequently, the optimization of their operations is a top priority for European knitters that wish to survive.

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

NOTICE 

BECAUSE all of our team and most of our readers will be in Paris from 4 to 6 July to attend the Mode city and Interfilière salons, the next issue of this newsletter will be published on 13 July to cover Weeks 27 & 28.

In the meantime, bodywear industry news continues to be published regularly on the “Recent Posts” area of the SIBILintimate home page (scroll down to access)

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

FRANCE: apparel spending slump assessed

SPAIN: summer rise of shoplifting predicted

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

PENN TS: new version of Dreamshape proposed

DOGI: share capital to be raised to speed growth

FULGAR: Q-Skin yarn adopted by major brand

SPLASHBYLO: new swimwear prints proposed

EUROJERSEY: new Sensitive quality launched

ASAHI KASEI: investments in elastane fibre detailed

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

VEVIE: more targeted accounts opened

THARITA: showroom sought to boost development

DIVA HIRSCHTHAL: Je Suis brand is discontinued

EMINENCE: women’s line to be relaunched

FELINA: focus placed on core brands

JOLIDON: insolvency procedure initiated

PANACHE: funding secured for expansion

PARAH: new factory store also serves neighbours

LEMAHIEU: sleep-inducing nightwear proposed

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DISTRIBUTION: evolution of chains and channels

 

INTIMACY: e-commerce server hacked

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PEOPLE: corporate personalities

 

MARCO TAIANA: confirmed as head of association

EMILIANO RINALDI: to leave La Perla creative post

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

MODE CITY: Latin American newcomers announced

LINEEXPO: lingerie salon to be staged in Dubai

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

NICHE MARKET: start-up targets pole dancers

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

FRANCE: apparel spending slump assessed

 

REVIEWING changes in French consumers’ behaviour, business newspaper Les Echos wrote that clothing now accounts for no more than 3 per cent of national consumption. It added that since 2008, when the economy began to slow and unemployment started to rise faster, spending on clothing and footwear had declined at an annual rate of 1 per cent. Apart from occasional impulse purchases, consumers now seek lower prices during clearance sales and on the Internet.

Aubade

Aubade

 

Recent indications of a possible modest economic upturn have not yet made a discernible impact on consumption of clothing.

 

SPAIN: summer rise of shoplifting predicted

 

RETAIL security specialists Checkpoint Systems estimated that shoplifting in Spanish stores represented a loss equivalent to 1.36 per cent of retailers’ turnover. But it warned that the loss could increase by 30 per cent during the summer season. Types of merchandise most at risk include swimwear and beach accessories as well as skin care products. Last year, the number of summer tourists visiting Spain rose by 7.1 per cent to 50.64m and a further increase is expected in 2015.

 

Red Point

Red Point

Although shoplifting as well as regular sales help to boost demand for suppliers’ merchandise, the loss incurred by retailers tends to reduce their capacity to place orders.

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 SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

PENN TS: new version of Dreamshape proposed

 

THE RECENT winners of the Performance Award 2015 for Innovation, Penn Textile Solutions, is preparing to present at the Interfilière salon a further example of its innovative approach to textile technology: the Dreamshape…Secrets concept. This is a micro-peachskin touch, dual-zone, easy cut, shaping product with maximum flexibility to be used in different garment shapes, giving the benefit of a “tummy-flattening” secret panel. The new product will be presented in the form of concept garments on Stand A95/B96 and visitors to will be able to assess its full potential there.

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The original Dreamshape fabric represented a significant breakthrough in bodywear production technology and this latest development promises to provide a comparable leap forward.

 

DOGI: share capital to be raised to speed growth

 

TO HELP meet its objective of reaching annual sales of EUR 200m by 2020, bodywear fabric specialist Dogi is to increase its share capital by EUR 5m through the issue of 4.9m shares at an issue price of EUR 1.01 per share. The company’s new five-year business plan calls for a 24.9 per cent rise in sales this year and in 2016 to reach EUR 46.1m. It is also predicted that EBITDA will rise from EUR 2.1m in 2015 to EUR 4.2m in 2016. While management will focus on organic growth this year and in 2016, it is intended at a later stage to seek initially acquisition opportunities that involve knitters of stretch fabrics looking for commercial synergies. Later, preference will be given to acquisitions that generate higher added value.

 

Dogi

Dogi

A number of European knitters are struggling to maintain viability, with insufficient resources to finance expansion. Consequently, it should not be difficult for Dogi to carry out its intended expansion programme.

 

FULGAR: Q-Skin yarn adopted by major brand

 

A LEADING European supplier of yarns for bodywear fabric production, Fulgar, saw its Q-Skin bacteriostatic nylon 6.6 yarn adopted by Macron, a major manufacturers of functional sports underwear. Q-Skin yarns incorporate silver ions inserted during the spinning process to maximize effective life and to provide natural bacterial balance of the skin. Consequently, several top UK soccer teams, including Aston Villa, Crystal Palace and Leeds United will be wearing underwear knitted with Q-Skin during the coming 2015/16 soccer season.

 

Macron & Q-Skin by Fulgar

Macron & Q-Skin by Fulgar

The antibacterial effectiveness of silver has been known and exploited since the earliest historical times.

 

SPLASHBYLO: new swimwear prints proposed

 

CREATED by Sergi Lopez, former leader of the management team of a long established Spanish supplier of printed swimwear fabrics, and his colleagues, a new collection of swimwear prints is being launched for S/S 2016 under the label Splashbylo. The Spanish company, which is said to involve three families with deep roots in the textile field, says that its leaders combine experience, passion and vision. Its first collection is being launched at the July Interfilière in Paris.

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After Italy, Spain is the most important source of printed swimwear fabrics in Europe and any new producer there well merits the attention of swimwear manufacturers.

 

EUROJERSEY: new Sensitive quality launched

 

THE LATEST version of the Sensitive range of bodywear fabrics produced by Eurojersey is being launched at the forthcoming Interfilière salon in Paris. Labelled Sensitive® Sculpt Light, the fabric features an unusually high (41 per cent) Lycra content to provide robustness and lightness, comfortable elasticity and extreme softness. It provides excellent fit and shape retention and combines effective shaping with maximum comfort for shapewear, sportswear and swimwear. In particular, the ultra-flat surface of Sensitive Sculpt Light allows the use of the latest processing techniques, such as contouring, ultra-sound, laser cutting and thermal taping to provide garments with a flat and uniform look.

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Assuming that it performs as claimed, the new quality should help to make shaping garments more comfortable for wearers.

 

ASAHI KASEI: investments in elastane fibre detailed

 

RESPONDING to an inaccurate comment about its European elastane capacity made in a recent issue of this newsletter, Asahi Kasei provided details of the impressive investment programme that followed its acquisition of the Dorlastan plant from the Lanxess concern in 2006. Since then, the Japanese chemical and fibres giant has invested more that JPY 1bn, equivalent to over EUR 7.2m, in the plant in order to integrate there its advanced elastane technology. Some facilities there were renewed and remodelled to allow the production of high-performance Roica elastane, including special fibres with such functions as acid dyeable, adhesive, heat-settable, anti-odour, chlorine resistance and others. Some of these functional fibres are now produced only in Germany and Japan, although there are other Roica plants in China, Taiwan and Thailand.

 

Roica by Asahi Kasei

Roica by Asahi Kasei

The information supplied confirms that the German plant now represents state-of-the-art elastane technology.       

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THE APPAREL SCENE news of brands and labels

 

VEVIE: more targeted accounts opened

 

BRITISH luxury lifestyle label start-up Vevie reported the continuing expansion of its network of exclusive high-end retail customers. Latest accounts opened include the boutique of the prestigious Mandarin Oriental hotel in London and several luxury spa hotels in the provinces. The label also launched its S/S 2016 swimwear collection, which will be on show at the Paris Mode City salon.

 

Cooden bikini by Vevie

Cooden bikini by Vevie

The rapid expansion of the retail customer network reflects the strengthening demand in the UK and Europe for more luxurious bodywear.

 

THARITA: showroom sought to boost development

 

CREATED in Paris by Brazilian designer Tharita Maria de Oliveira, who started her fashion career as a model for YSL, swimwear brand Tharita announced that it is seeking premises to open a wholesale showroom in order to boost its expansion. At the same time, it launched its S/S 2016 collection under the Pin-Up theme inspired by the ’70s look, tropical shades of orange as well as black and white, but with a clean and modern cut. The range, which is produced in Brazil, is currently distributed through major department stores in Paris and London and has attracted much comment in leading fashion media.

 

Tharita

Tharita

The wholesale showroom, when found and in operation, promises to allow the brand to expand its distribution through multi-brand retailers and chains.

 

DIVA HIRSCHTHAL: Je Suis brand is discontinued

 

MAJOR Israeli swimwear manufacturer Diva Hirschthal announced that it is discontinuing production and distribution of its premium collection labelled je Suis, which was created mainly for the German market. The decision is attributed to difficult global trading conditions, a fast changing and shrinking market and rising production costs. The company continues to produce and market its Diva brand, which is more widely distributed and generates substantial sales in the USA.

Je Suis

Je Suis

 

As recently as 2010, the Je Suis label was ranked among the five most important swimwear brands in Germany. It appears to be a victim of the polarization trend that is affecting bodywear sales throughout Europe.

 

EMINENCE: women’s line to be relaunched

 

UNDER its Athena label, French underwear concern Eminence is to relaunch a line of women’s underwear, which will be in retail stores by November 2015. Priced at around EUR 35 for a bra and panty set, the line is to be produced in North Africa and South East Asia rather than in France. Eminence CEO Dominique Seau told the trade press that he expects the women’s line will generate annual sales of EUR 10m within five years. In 2014, Eminence generated sales of EUR 125m, mainly with men’s underwear.

Athena by Eminence

Athena by Eminence

 

It is probable that distribution will be limited to volume market outlets in France rather than to export markets. But it is likely to win sales from existing suppliers in the relevant French distribution channels.

 

FELINA: focuses on core brands

 

FOLLOWING its acquisition by private equity fund Palero Invest early in 2015, German underwear brand Felina announced that it would discontinue production and distribution of its Unusual range to concentrate on the development of its Felina and Conturelle brands. The two remaining core labels are said by the brand’s management to be following a “very positive” line of development.

 

Unusual by Felina

Unusual by Felina

There can be no doubt that other, less newsworthy but equally important, measures have or will be taken to maximize the brand’s performance.

 

JOLIDON: insolvency procedure initiated

 

LOCAL sources reported that Romanian lingerie label Jolidon had entered insolvency last week with accumulated debts of EUR 57m, more than four times its annual sales in 2014. That year, turnover slumped by more than 30 per cent against the preceding year, to EUR 14m. Founded two decades ago by local entrepreneur Gabriel Carlig, the brand at its peak had exported to some 50 countries and operated over 80 retail stores in Romania. Its loss had reached EUR 22m in 2014 from EUR 0.7m in the preceding year.

 

Jolidon

Jolidon

The rapid slump in sales and resulting mushrooming of loss gave suppliers relatively little warning of the impending collapse of the brand.

 

PARAH: new factory store also serves neighbours

 

LOCATED in part of the original production plant of Parah, the brand’s new factory store was inaugurated recently. The 250m2 store proposes not only the label’s bodywear products for men and women but also other items of apparel produced by different brands in the Varese area. Parah General Manager Simona Piazzalunga commented: ” The inside of the Parah factory store evokes the history of our family firm. For us, it is a pleasure to share with our customers the values of our traditional production know-how”.

 

Parah

Parah

The offer of selling space to other brands in the area is not only altruism, it will also jhelp to attract more customers to the factory store.        

 

LEMAHIEU: sleep-inducing nightwear proposed

 

FRENCH wellbeing bodywear specialist Lemahieu launched a range of nightwear that could well merit the appellation “functional sleepwear”. Pyjamas and nightdresses are micro-encapsulated with plant and essential oil extracts, including camomile, valerian, lavender and others, in proportions determined by a specialist contractor. Normal movement in sleep suffices to release the active substances. The company also proposes similarly micro-encapsulated pillow cases. Products are said to remain effective up to 30 wash cycles.

 

Lemahieu

Lemahieu

This is such an obvious application of the micro-encapsulation technology that it merits adoption by all sleepwear brands.

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DISTRIBUTION: evolution of chains and channels

 

INTIMACY: e-commerce server hacked

 

LONG troubled US intimate apparel chain Intimacy, which is owned by Van de Velde, ran into further problems when it discovered that its e-commerce server had been hacked and that customers’ personal information could have been misappropriated. Potentially affected consumers, who placed or attempted to place an order between December 2014 and April 2015, have been notified and offered free protection services in compensation. Also, more stringent security procedures have been installed.

 

Intimacy

Intimacy

Even if no customers suffer loss, the chain risks losing some consumer confidence, which it can ill afford at this time.

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PEOPLE: corporate personalities

 

MARCO TAIANA: confirmed as head of association

 

A RECENT meeting of the Young Entrepreneurs section of the Unindustria Como association re-elected unanimously as its head Marco Taiana of Tessitura Taiana Virgilio, a fabric producer that supplies the swimwear and lingerie sectors among others. Taiana has led the marketing activity of the company for the past six years.

 

Marco Taiana

Marco Taiana

EMILIANO RINALDI: to leave La Perla creative post

 

LUXURY bodywear brand La Perla announced that the contract of Emiliano Rinaldi has not been renewed. Appointed in 2014 to re-launch the brand’s men’s bodywear collection, and to develop the exclusive La Perla Atelier collection, Rinaldi said that his mission had been completed and that he intends to concentrate on growing the men’s outerwear collection he launched in 2011.

Emiliano Rinaldi

Emiliano Rinaldi

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EXHIBITIONS what to see and where to trade

 

MODE CITY: Latin American newcomers announced

 

THE NEXT edition of the Paris bodywear salon Mode City, from 4 to 6 July 2015, will not only benefit from a new layout but will also welcome an unusual proportion of new exhibitors, especially from Brazil and Colombia, that includes many swimwear labels. The new layout includes access by a footbridge that provides visitors with a panoramic view of the show, together with that of the Interfilière fabrics and production accessories salon. In total the salon will feature nearly 430 brands, including around 100 newcomers.

 

Mode City Paris

Mode City Paris

Since it coincides with the signs of activity revival that we detect throughout the industry, and especially in the swimwear sector, this edition of the salon promises to be most interesting for professionals.

 

LINEXPO: lingerie salon to be staged in Dubai

 

DESCRIBED as the first lingerie and swimwear exhibition to take place in the UAE, the Linexpo salon is to be staged from 24 to 26 November 2015 in Dubai. It will be housed in the Radisson Blu Hotel and is expected to feature more than 100 brands from 15 countries proposing lingerie, swimwear, loungewear and hosiery. The organizers are offering a 20 per cent early booking discount for exhibitors reserving stands before 1 July. Contact info@lingeriedubai.com for more details.

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Since Dubai is a major trading centre for the whole of the Middle East region, the show promises to attract buyers from many countries rather than only from the UAE.

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

NICHE MARKET: start-up targets pole dancers

 

BASED in the French port city of Le Havre and trading as NAO Polewear, a start-up raised EUR 9’500, which was EUR 500 over its target, on a crowdfunding site to finance the production of the first 500 pieces of a collection of lingerie for pole dancers. The first 150 pieces are being delivered as far afield as the US at the end of June 2015.

 

NAO Polewear

NAO Polewear

Surprisingly, the French brand is not alone in its speciality: at least one other brand, Indy in Australia, also proposes a collection conceived for pole dancers. We are now waiting for news of a first lingerie collection intended for lap dancers.

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