Home | Others | Full text issue week 29-2015

Full text issue week 29-2015

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Weeks 28 & 29-2015 

Summary of news published during weeks 27 & 28-2015

 

jpa4Sibil220AMONG the Interfiliere exhibitors who reported high interest shown in the products they presented was Penn Textile Solutions with their new Dreamshape…Secrets fabric that features a “tummy flattening”area. Because the higher compression zone is knitted into the fabric, it does away with the need to sew in a panel, thus improving aesthetics and reducing labour costs in the sewing room. At the same time, end products are likely to prove more appealing to end-users who will appreciate the mix of lightness and shaping performance. This provides a further example of how innovative application of textile technology helps to produce garments that promise to generate extra sales for manufacturers and distributors. Many other comparable products are needed to spur bodywear consumption in Europe.

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

SPAIN: swimwear business gathers strength

FRANCE: apparel sales dipped again in May

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

INVISTA: Lycra users’ collections promoted

PENN TS: important innovation award secured

HYOSUNG: creora unveils trends for S/S 2017

ASAHI KASEI: eco-friendly elastane developed

NYLSTAR: more special Meryl yarns proposed

EUROJERSEY: new sustainable initiative launched

TEXTURED JERSEY: Indian knitting mill acquired

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

PARAH: debts cleared at creditors’ expense

MILLESIA: luxury sports bra added to range

SUSA: acquires complementary swimwear brand

MUNDO UNICO: broader European distribution sought

COSABELLA: new collection bears fashion label                                   

VAN DE VELDE: sales trend reported very positive

TRIUMPH: Austrian closure social plan agreed                                          

FEAST: lingerie start-up adds swimwear to range

LADY GIOIA: bodywear licence of Bagutta secured

ALBINI: diversified range includes swimwear  

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DISTRIBUTION: evolution of chains and channels

 

SOLEIL SUCRE: chain acquired by discounter

HUNKEMOELLER: plan for sale confirmed

AMERICAN APPAREL: turnaround plan activated

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PEOPLE: corporate personalities

 

HANS HORNEMANN: role at Wacoal broadened

PANKAJ VERMANI: takes helm of Clovia e-commerce

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

GALLERIA INTIMA: set for further growth in 2015

SUPREME: major brands to show at next edition

CPM: bodywear styling and trends highlighted

MODE CITY: attendance dipped at last edition

INTERFILIERE: stable attendance recorded

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

LINED KNICKERS: birds reverse utilisation

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

SPAIN: swimwear business gathers strength

 

FIGURES released by the Spanish Statistical Office INE show that the country produced 4.4m pieces of swimwear in 2014, representing a value of EUR 52m. During the past five years the Spanish swimwear industry increased its exports by 50 per cent while imports of swimwear rose by only 12 per cent despite the presence in Spain of leading specialist chains such as Calzedonia and Yamamay. Italy, itself a major producer of swimwear, is one of the most important markets for the Spanish industry’s products and raised by 82 per cent in five years its imports of Spanish bodywear, including swimwear.

 

Dolores Cortès

Dolores Cortès

Official export figures do not take into account the probably considerable quantity of locally produced swimwear bought in Spain by foreign holidaymakers.

 

FRANCE: apparel sales dipped again in May

 

ACCORDING to figures published by the Institut français de la mode (Ifm), clothing sales in May 2015 dipped by 0.5 per cent against the same month a year earlier. In 2014, May sales had shown a rise of 6 per cent. Home shopping channels performed most stronly, with sales that rose by 6.7 per cent but popular price stores suffered a 5.6 per cent decline in their sales of apparel. The first five months of 2015 show a 0.7 per cent decline in clothing sales against the same period in 2014.

 

Chantelle

Chantelle

Fear of unemployment and lack of confidence about economic prospects in general continue to undermine consumers’ spending intentions.

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 SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

INVISTA: Lycra users’ collections promoted

 

THIS year, having decided not to exhibit at the Paris intimate apparel salons, Invista is providing more public relations support than ever to the A/W 2016/17 collections of fabric producers that use different types of Lycra fibre such as Lycra Xtra Life, Lycra Sport and Lycra Beauty. Included among the companies that benefit from this additional promotion are D2P Billon, Codentel, Noyon, MG Création, Les Tissages Perrin, Brugnoli and Piave Maitex. Click here to see examples of innovative fabrics from these collections.

 

MG Création & Lycra

MG Création & Lycra

As fit and comfort remain key criteria for the choice of intimate apparel and swimwear, the demand for quality elastane fibre continues to strengthen.

 

PENN TS: important innovation award secured

 THIS year’s Performance Award was bestowed by the Performance Days trade fair on Penn Textile Solutions for an extraordinary new system to produce an elastic, reinforced waistband with gripper, but without the irritating seams. The fabric, with high elastane content, is well suited for sportswear, for example, cycling pants or shirts. The advantages are clear: the gripper strips incorporated during the knitting process prevent the waistband from slipping: the waist of the shirt or pants stays securely in place on the skin. At the same time, the pleats and seams previously required the application of additional gripper bands have been eliminated. The result is lighter weight and greater comfort.

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Although the product has only a marginal relationship to intimate apparel, its development highlights the innovative approach to textile technology taken by Penn TS.

 

HYOSUNG: creora unveils trends for S/S 2017

 

WITH a reminder of its claim to be the largest world producer of elastane fibre, Hyosung revealed the S/S 2017 fashion trends proposed by its creora fibre. The trends presentation comprises four themes relating to lingerie and four relating to swimwear. More trend and product information is being presented on the company’s stand at Interfilière Paris salon. Click here to see the trends presentation in words and pictures.

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Since the July 2015 edition of Interfilière focuses on collections for A/W 2016/17, the creora trends are revealed in good time to inspire collections for summer 2017.

 

ASAHI KASEI: eco-friendly elastane developed

 

SHOWN for the first time by Asahi Kasei at the Paris Interfilière salon last week was a new eco-friendly Roica elastane yarn labelled Roica Eco-Smart. Its manufacture uses more than 50 per cent pre-production industrial waste material and the yarn brings clear and certified environmental benefits. This innovation is led by the commercial introduction of the Eco-Lace range by Tessitura Colombo in Italy. Other special qualities of Roica yarns shown included Roica Perfection, a high performance stretch yarn for intimate apparel, Roica Soft Response, with a unique soft touch combined with high elasticity and strong recovery and Roica Colour Perfect that provides a flawless matte finish for bodywear and legwear, and Roica Reflex, a yarn with the performance required for knitted fabrics intended for the production of cut and sewn garments. An Extra High Impact sports bra from Marks & Spencer that incorporates Roica yarn was also displayed to illustrate how the A-Cubic R&D centre in Japan collaborates with customers to develop functional qualities of Roica yarns to meet precisely their specific performance needs. Other exhibits included lightweight nightwear fabrics made with Asahi Kasei’s Cupro yarns.

 

Marks & Spencer + Roica

Marks & Spencer + Roica

The company’s stand at the July 2015 Interfilière was much larger than in past years, which suggests that the company’s European sales drive is moving into higher gear. Further, the appointment earlier this year of a European PR agency  to help promote Roica, Dorlastan and Cupro yarns in a professional manner indicates that Asahi Kasei has much information to communicate on its innovations and values. 

 

NYLSTAR: more special Meryl yarns proposed

 

SEVERAL new qualities of Meryl yarns were proposed by Nylstar on its stand at the Paris Interfilière salon. These included Meryl Sublime, a microfibre yarn with finer filaments than standard microfibre yarns and Meryl Hydrogen, that provides a skin hydration effect , both are also available in seven dope dyed shades in addition to black and white. Also new is Meryl Spring, a microfilament yarn intended for swimwear fabrics that provides highly resistant colours, quick drying, an extremely soft touch for greater comfort and increased protection against UV radiation as well as high resistance to pilling.

 

Nylstar trends for S/S 2016

Nylstar trends for S/S 2016

These new qualities extend yet further the range of functional performance provided by Meryl yarns.

 

EUROJERSEY: new sustainable initiative launched

 

ITALIAN knitting concern Eurojersey, that produces the Sensitive range of bodywear fabrics, announced its latest project in favour of sustainability. In collaboration with the WWF in Italy, the company has launched a three-year project to safeguard the Mediterranean eco-system with particular emphasis on protection of the loggerhead sea turtle. It is estimated that each year some 130’000 sea turtles are caught in fishermen’s nets, of which 40’000 die. Communication activities, including the company’s new corporate campaign, will aim to create greater awareness of the problems involved and thus help to develop appropriate solutions.

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With any luck, this latest example of Eurojersey’s commitment to sustainability will spur other fabric producers also to take action in favour of the environment.

 

TEXTURED JERSEY: Indian knitting mill acquired

 

SRI LANKAN fabric supplier Textured Jersey Lanka (TJL) announced that it has agreed to acquire Ocean Mauritius Ltd, which owns and operates the Ocean India knitting mill located in Visakhapatnam, India. Subject to regulatory approval, TJL will acquire the entire share capital of Ocean Mauritius for USD 15m, payable in cash and shares. Earlier this year, TJL had announced its intention to acquire the Quenby Lanka Prints business to give it an entry into the fabric printing sector. TJL commented:”The acquisition of Quenby Lanka and Ocean India should potentially launch TJL to the next level of solution provision and innovation while also catering to growing customer demand, thereby adding significant long-term value to its shareholders and reinforcing its footprint as one of the leading textile players in the South Asian region.”

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It appears that TJL is well on the way to becoming a one-stop shop for users of knitted fabrics in the region it serves.

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THE APPAREL SCENE news of brands and labels

 

PARAH: debts cleared at creditors’ expense  

 

FOLLOWING publication of a news item relating to Parah in our preceding issue, Week 27-2015, some Italian readers contacted us to provide more information about the company. Our informants say that earlier this year Parah had debts of approximately EUR 11m when it changed its name to Antica Manifattura Gallaratese (AMG) and entered into insolvency procedure immediately after. Meanwhile a new company was formed under the Parah title to continue the brand’s business.

Parah

Parah

 

Like many prestigious brands in the past, such as Gottex and La Perla, that eventually failed after an attempt to diversify into outerwear, Parah had also begun to broaden its product range into outerwear, following diversification into loungewear in 2010.

 

MILLESIA: luxury sports bra added to range

 

LUXURY lingerie label Millesia announced that it is launching in September 2015 a new range of sports underwear incorporating Lycra Fresh FX, Lycra Beauty and Lycra Xtra Fine. This includes a luxury sports bra that features cups developed exclusively for the brand. These unwired cups are moulded around an inner support in polycarbonate and are said to adapt to all types of morphology. Bra sizes range from 85B to 95E while the shorty knickers are proposed in size 1 to 4. The set will retail at under EUR 150.

 

Millesia

Millesia

As demand for sports bras continues to grow, whether for reasons of function or comfort, more consumers will be seeking luxury products.

 

SUSA: acquires complementary swimwear brand

 

GERMAN bodywear concern Susa announced that it has acquired the Pola Neumann swimwear business that specializes in supplying volume distributors in Europe as well as in its home market. The acquisition is said to have been prompted by the wish of Pola Neumann’s owner to dispose of the business.

Pola Neumann

Pola Neumann

 

The acquisition will increase considerably the proportion of swimwear sales in the turnover of Susa.

 

MUNDO UNICO: broader European distribution sought

 

COLOMBIAN manufacturer of men’s and boy’s underwear and swimwear Mundo Unico is said by its founder Nicolas Echeverri to be seeking to expand its sales in Europe.The entrepreneur told Spanish online trade medium Modaes.es that he hoped to raise appreciably the proportion of 9 per cent of sales accounted for by the brand’s export business. The brand is currently sold in Spain, the UK, Ireland and Germany as well as in the US where it has a sales office in Miami. In 2016, it plans to establish bridgeheads in other European countries, notably France and Italy. Though the company operates 14 dedicated retail stores in Colombia, wholesale operations account for 73 per cent of its sales, with its online store accounting for a further 1 per cent. In 2014, the brand generated sales of some USD 10m and predicts a 4 per cent sales rise in 2015.

 

Mundo Unico

Mundo Unico

The innovative design of the suspensor pouch incorporated in its boxers could well allow the brand to win an appreciable volume of sales in all countries where it is present.

 

COSABELLA: new collection bears fashion label

 

THE LATEST collection being produced by Italo-American lingerie brand Cosabella bears a French fashion label: Paul & Joe by Cosabella. The collection, which is the fruit of an agreement with Paul & Joe, comprises eight fashion themes that feature many print designs inspired by the look of the outerwear range. The collection will reach consumers early in 2016 through Cosabella’s high end stockists in the US as well as its international e-commerce.

Paul & Joe by Cosabella

Paul & Joe by Cosabella

 

The French fashion label promises to bring an added touch of exclusivity to the Cosabella product range.

 

VAN DE VELDE: sales trend reported very positive

 

LUXURY lingerie and swimwear concern Van de Velde reported like-for-like consolidated sales for the first half of 2015 up by 8.2 per cent to EUR 113.4m. Wholesale sales for the first half rose by 8.2 per cent and the company added that forward orders for the second half were higher than in 2014. Although sales of the Intimacy retail chain in the US continued to weaken, the strength of the USD produced an advance of 16.9 per cent in sales expressed in Euros. Like-for-like retail sales in Europe rose by 3.8 per cent thanks to strong demand in Germany and the Netherlands. More details of first half results are to be published on 28 August.

 

Marie Jo by Van de Velde

Marie Jo by Van de Velde

While their design and quality played a decisive role in raising sales, the company’s brands also benefited from the still strengthening demand for luxury merchandise.

 

TRIUMPH: Austrian closure social plan agreed

 

A MAJOR bodywear brand, Triumph International, announced that the social plan in connection with the closure of its Oberwart production unit in Austria had been accepted by the 380 employees there. This is the third closure of an Austrian plant by the company since 2013. Reasons given include optimization of the international supply chain, shrinking markets, rising production costs and difficult trading conditions worldwide. Triumph added that although the search for competitiveness called for the closure of high cost production units, complex and innovative products of strategic importance would continue to be made in its own plants.

Triumph International

Triumph International

 

Despite the launch of a luxury label a few years ago, much of the Triumph range is in the medium to medium-high price brackets that are suffering most from sluggish consumption in most markets.

 

FEAST: lingerie start-up adds swimwear to range

 

FOUNDED in Japan last year to produce lingerie specifically for women with smaller breasts, Feast launched this year its first swimwear collection that targets the same women. Commenting on the model shown below, the company’s designer said that the frills are not intended to provide girlish appeal but to cover up the silhouette of women who feel self-conscious about their small bosom.

 

Feast

Feast

Following the launch last year of the Ysé brand in France, which also targets women with smaller breasts, it appears that there is a worldwide niche market for such products.

 

LADY GIOIA: bodywear licence of Bagutta secured

 

TO IMPLEMENT its decision to diversify into bodywear and legwear, Italian shirtmaker Bagutta licensed underwear manufacturer Lady Gioia to produce a range of men’s underwear, swimwear and socks under the Bagutta label. Both companies will contribute to the design of the collection. They will also jointly participate in its distribution, Bagutta through its international wholesale sales force as well as its retail points of sale and Lady Gioia through its sales network. Bagutta believes strongly that men who now wear its shirts will also want to adopt its bodywear.

Cesare Paciotti by Lady Gioia

Cesare Paciotti by Lady Gioia

 

The launch of the underwear range will prove a real life test of the loyalty of Bagutta’s final customers.

 

ALBINI: diversified range includes swimwear

 

THE EXTENDED range of finished products presented under the Thomas Mason label by Italian cotton weaver Albini at the Pitti Uomo salon in Florence includes new swimwear for men. The new swim boxers presented in Florence are available in 500 different fabric designs but share a number of interesting features. These include colour woven cotton fabrics and a special water repellent finish that provides resistance to seawater and chlorine and prevents the fading of colours through exposure to sunlight. It also reduces drying time to around 15 minutes.

 

Thomas Mason by Albini

Thomas Mason by Albini

Adequately promoted and merchandized, the new swimwear could generate a considerable sales volume since its features meet the practical needs of most male consumers.

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DISTRIBUTION: evolution of chains and channels

 

SOLEIL SUCRE: chain acquired by discounter

 

PLACED in administration in late 2014, French lingerie chain Soleil Sucré was acquired by Charles Sfez, founder of the Giga Store discount chain in France. The price of EUR 7m covers the purchase of 35 of the 62 owned physical stores, 11 affiliation contracts and the brand’s e-commerce. In 2014, the chain had generated sales of EUR 24m.

 

Soleil Sucré

Soleil Sucré

With a reduced number of stores, the chain will necessarily suffer a decline in sales. Nevertheless, the concept had generated an impressive sales growth in the past and, with a tight control on costs, could well resume its expansion on a solid basis.

 

HUNKEMOELLER: plan for sale confirmed

 

FOLLOWING the review of strategic options that was reported here in March 2015, the French private equity owner of the Hunkemöller lingerie chain, PAI Partners, confirmed that it intends to exit from the business in 2016 at the latest. Last month, the chain announced plans to raise the number of its stores by 50 per cent within two years, to a total of 900, to expand its wholesale business and to grow its e-commerce sales.

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It is very probable that any new owner will maintain, or even expand, the growth objectives announced recently.

 

AMERICAN APPAREL: turnaround plan activated

 

US CHAIN American Apparel announced cost cutting initiatives intended to reduce its operating expenses by around USD 30m over the coming 18 months. These include the closure of underperforming stores and the overall reduction of the workforce to reflect a smaller store footprint and general industry conditions. Later this year, for the first time in its history, the chain will introduce a new A/W line focused on advanced basics and key items in men’s and women’s wear. Nevertheless, the chain said that even if it increases revenue and cuts costs, there can be no guarantee that it will have the resources to meet funding requirements for the next 12 months. CEO Paula Schneider commented: “Our primary focus is on improving the processes and product mix that have led to steep losses over the past five years. Our customers, employees and local communities believe that American Apparel is an iconic brand that deserves to succeed and my job is to make that a reality.”

 

American Apparel

American Apparel

The positive image of the chain is such that, if early turnaround measures prove successful, fresh financial resources could well be found after all.

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PEOPLE: corporate personalities

 

HANS HORNEMANN: role at Wacoal broadened

 

INCLUDED among new appointments made in Europe by high end lingerie specialist Wacoal was the announcement that Hans Horneman, currently General Manager EMEA for Wacoal Europe, is to assume direct responsibility for distributors in Russia and the Middle East.

 

PANKAJ VERMANI: takes helm of Clovia e-commerce

 

INDIAN concern Purple Panda Fashion that operates the Clovia e-tailing business that formerly traded as MoodsofCloe announced the appointment of Pankaj Vermani as CEO of the online store. Vermani, a graduate of IIT Delhi, is a serial entrepreneur who has co-founded a number companies in the past.

 

Pankaj Vermani

Pankaj Vermani

EXHIBITIONSwhat to see and where to trade

 

GALLERIA INTIMA: set for further growth in 2015

 

THE INDIAN salon for bodywear production supplies, Galleria Intima, announced that the 2015 edition would feature more exhibitors than ever before. To date, the show to be staged in New Delhi on 26 and 27 August by the Intimate Apparel Association of India (IAAI) has signed up over 80 exhibitors including several of the major international players. More than 15 Chinese suppliers will exhibit at the show, which is seen as an achievement since Chinese companies tend not to view India as a serious market for intimate apparel. In addition to a preview of international trends, the trade fair will also provide visitors with a range of seminars and workshops covering different aspects of the industry.

 

Galleria Intima

Galleria Intima

As the Indian industry evolves to serve the growing market for branded intimate apparel, this trade fair will continue to assume ever greater importance.

 

SUPREME: major brands to show at next edition

 

MUNICH trade fair Supreme Body&Beach, to be staged from 26 to 28 July, had announced in Mid-June that this summer’s edition was fully booked and now confirms that many major international brands will exhibit at the show. Among the many brands cited are Gottex, Ritratti, Hom, Pain de Sucre, Panache, Max Mara, Olaf Benz and Seafolly.

 

Supreme Body&Beach

Supreme Body&Beach

This salon appears destined to assume a leading role in Germany, comparable to that once played by the Igedo Body & Beach event in Düsseldorf.

 

CPM: bodywear styling and trends highlighted

 

THE ORGANISERS of the Mode Lingerie and Swim Moscow segment of the next edition of the CPM salon, Igedo Company in partnership with Eurovet, announced that for the first time a visual presentation of bodywear trends for S/S 2016 will be staged in the foyer of the salon. Trend themes are Nymph, Odalisque and Mermaid. They also add that first-time exhibitors this year include the prestigious brand Agent Provocateur as well as Dima Neu, winner of the Project Runway TV show in 2012.

CPM Seminars

CPM Seminars

 

The event provides exhibiting bodywear brands with an attractive package of services to ease their entry into the still potentially valuable Russian market.

 

MODE CITY: attendance dipped at last edition

 

 ORGANISERS Eurovet said that attendance at the last edition of the Mode City salon, in Paris from 4 to 6 July 2015, had declined by some 10 per cent against the preceding year. The dip is attributed to several reasons besides the uncomfortably intense heat wave. These included the switch to September of the Who’s Next salon, that reduced the number of fashion buyers in Paris, the crisis in Russia and problems in Italy. Nevertheless, despite scarce attendance on some stands, the mood of exhibitors remained generally positive, with some brands claiming to have found new customers.

Mode City

Mode City

 

The lower attendance is likely to prove no more than a blip and the salon retains its status as Europe’s leading bodywear event.

 

INTERFILIERE: stable attendance recorded

 

DESPITE a heat wave of unusual intensity, especially on the first day of the salon, attendance at Interfilière Paris remained at the level of the comparable event in 2014, at around 10’500 entries. This is believed to result from the new layout that facilitated entry by professionals attending the Mode City salon. As usual, a high proportion of visitors, this year 71 per cent, originated outside France. The UK, followed by Germany, relegated Italy to the third place in the foreign top ten, with China and the USA ahead of Spain in the 4th to 6th place. The closing report notes a stronger presence than usual of buyers from the prêt-à-porter sector and exhibitors’ stands appeared more heavily frequented than in earlier years. Many exhibitors reported a very satisfactory volume of new contacts made at the salon.

 

Interfilière Paris

Interfilière Paris

The absence of some formerly regular exhibitors and the smaller stands or reduced teams of some other suppliers bore witness to the problems facing much of the bodywear industry in Western countries.

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

LINED KNICKERS: birds reverse utilisation

 

SCOTTISH birds of prey that were stealing underwear, lined or unlined, from bathers who had undressed to take a swim in a popular bathing spot near Glen Esk, were found to be using the garments to line their nest.

 

Underwear lining

Underwear lining

The birds were identified as red kites, but no colour preference was reported in their choice of stolen knickers.

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