Home | Others | Full text Issue Week 30-2015

Full text Issue Week 30-2015

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 30-2015

Summary of news published during week 29-2015

 

jpa4Sibil220THE ADDITION of tanthrough fabrics to the product range of fabric supplier Textra is an indication that, after many years of occasional presence in swimwear collections, such fabrics might well be on the verge of making a major breakthrough. First proposed many years ago, the earlier types of tanthrough fabrics posed a number of problems that prevented them from being widely accepted by brands and consumers, despite the effectiveness of their performance. In recent years, however, significant technological improvements have eliminated former problems and thus made tanthrough swimwear more likely to be accepted by retailers and consumers. Despite former drawbacks regarding tanthrough swimsuits, the concept is certainly much appreciated by consumers and, thanks to the new technology, there is now a strong possibility that it will soon become one of the decisive criteria for selecting a swimsuit.

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

STYLING: report reviews latest design trends

INDIA: colour boosts innerwear sales

LUXURY GOODS: online sales boom predicted

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

LENZING: deconsolidation process continues

TEXTRA: tanthrough fabrics added to range

SOULIS KUEHNIS: demand maintained despite crisis

GRUPO MODA ESTILMAR: sharecapital reduced

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

LASHEVAN: brand protects its technology

SIMONE PERELE: swimwear distribution broadened

2UNDR: new underwear controls temperature

DOLLAR INDUSTRIES: export drive targets Africa

NUBIAN SKIN: entry made into US market     

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DISTRIBUTION: evolution of chains and channels

 

UNDER ARMOUR: new sports bra range launched

UNDIZ: panty selling machine moved to Paris

FAST RETAILING: second Uniqlo store to open in Berlin

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PEOPLE: corporate personalities

 

MIGUEL ALMEIDA: joins Lululemon as VP Digital

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

MARE D’AMARE: around 250 brands to exhibit

MMC DESSOUS PARADIES: individuality promoted

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

HIS ‘N HERS: call made for segregated beaches

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 BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

STYLING: report reviews latest design trends

 

UNDER the title Daring Colour, the latest report from specialist bodyfashion consultants Concepts Paris reviews the daring and innovative approaches to colour that were to be seen among the collections displayed at the Mode City and Interfilière salons earlier this month. The six richly illustrated colour trend boards with explanatory texts cover all the significant colour novelties seen at the show and are supplemented with many photos of individual garments. Access to the report is limited to subscribers to the consultant’s various services supplied to intimate apparel and swimwear brands and private labels worldwide. Following reports will focus on other elements of innerwear and swimwear design.

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Because reports from this source inspire collections that are perceived by consumers as creatively influential, they are of considerable value for all design personnel in the innerwear supply chain.

 

INDIA: colour boosts innerwear sales

 

THE GROWING readiness of Indian women to experiment with innerwear colours, designs and styling is reported to be boosting sales in a market now estimated to be worth some USD 1.7bn. A report from consultancy Wazir Advisors notes that Indian women now own an average of eight bras, against five or six in the past, as well as an average of 10 panties, which is almost twice as many as in former years. During the five years from 2009 to 2013, the Indian innerwear market grew annually at a compound rate of 17 per cent as the super premium category, now worth USD 102.5m, grew by 26 per cent, the premium category, now worth USD 283m, grew by 22 per cent and the medium category, which retails at around USD 4, grew less rapidly at the rate of 17 per cent. Women in the 24-35 age group tend to buy sets of local brands priced at around the equivalent of USD 14.

 

Enamor

Enamor

Leading local brands, including the private labels of Indian online stores, are making a major contribution to the growth of the market but there could well be sales opportunities in India for leading Western brands in the medium price sector.

 

LUXURY GOODS: online sales boom predicted

 

CONSULTANTS McKinsey together with Fondazione Altagamme studied the prospects for online sales of luxury personal attire. The luxury sector, which now accounts for 6 per cent of a total market estimated at EUR 224bn, is now worth EUR 14bn. Findings of the study predict that luxury apparel will raise its market share to 18 per cent within ten years, generating online sales worth EUR 70bn in a total market that will then be worth EUR 390bn.The prediction is based on the responses of a panel of 6’400 luxury consumers in eight countries: Brazil, China, South Korea, France, Japan, Italy, UK and USA.

La Perla

La Perla

 

The prediction reflects both the trends in favour of online sales and of luxury goods and promises even better business for high end innerwear labels.

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 SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

LENZING: deconsolidation process continues

 

THE SALE of three business units of its technical branch announced by Lenzing is said by the company to be a continuation of its current strategy that focuses on its cellulosic fibre business. All three units sold, the Mechatronics business, the Automation/Robotics unit and the Sheet Metal business, will retain their entire staff and will continue to operate on the Lenzing site. Lenzing CFO Thomas Riegler commented: “I am certain that these business units will have a good future with their new owners boasting relevant know-how in the respective industries. For its part, the divestment will enable Lenzing to focus even more on its core business of producing fibers”

 

Lenzing

Lenzing

The sale of the three units will provide some of the cash resources needed to continue promoting sales of special fibres, notably Tencel, to compensate for the difficult business conditions that affect sales of standard viscose.

 

TEXTRA: tanthrough fabrics added to range

 

THE NEW range of swimwear fabrics presented by Textra at the Interfilière salon earlier this month included for the first time a selection of tanthrough fabrics in different designs and colourways. Also new for S/S 2017 were developments of the double face prints that were originally launched last year. To exploit further the success of the original concept, it is applied this year to the lighter fabrics demanded by manufacturers.

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Textra

 

The concept of printing different but coordinating designs on the face and back of a fabric provides designers with more opportunities to develop creative ideas. Further, the introduction of tanthrough fabrics into the product range reflects growing demand for these fabrics on the part of consumers, manufacturers and distributors.

 

 

SOULIS KUEHNIS: demand maintained despite crisis

 

PRESENT as usual at the Interfilière salon, Greek embroidery concern Soulis Kuehnis said that the quality of its products and service, as well as the innovative character of its designs and technology, had allowed it to retain its international customer base despite the problems affecting the Greek economy. Among the technological innovations presented in the current collection are laser cut embroideries producing interesting and attractive colour effects as well as some impressive plastron embroideries. Click here to see some representative products from the collection.

Soulis Kuehnis

Soulis Kuehnis

 

The continued interest shown in the collection by international buyers is a tribute to all aspects of the company’s operations.

 

GRUPO MODA ESTILMAR: share capital reduced

 

IN ACCORDANCE with the decision approved at the Extraordinary General Meeting of Grupo Moda Estilmar shareholders on 2 January 2015, official formalities were completed to reduce the company’s capital to EUR 757’260. The objective is to amortize the cash reserves of the company that produces printed swimwear fabrics.

 

Grupo Moda Estilmar

Grupo Moda Estilmar

The move follows the assumption of the management of the company by the founder Domenech family after the acquisition of the Dogi knitting operation by a private equity fund.

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THE APPAREL SCENE news of brands and labels

 

LASHEVAN: brand protects its technology

 

KOREAN men’s underwear label Lashevan, whose products feature a patented technology that reduces perspiration around the genital area, said that it has been granted patents in 11 countries, including the US and China, with applications filed in a further 15 countries. The patenting drive is intended to pave the way for international sales growth. The functional underwear generated sales equivalent to USD 8.88m within nine months of its original launch and has since extended distribution to physical stores.

 

Lashevan

Lashevan

Whether the products will be equally appreciated by consumers in more temperate climates remains to be seen.

 

SIMONE PERELE: swimwear distribution broadened

 

LAUNCHED in 2014 for wholesale almost exclusively in the domestic market, the swimwear collection of French innerwear label Simone Pérèle is now being proposed in export markets. The 2016 swimwear range that was shown at the recent Mode City salon comprises some 50 models, one-piece and two-piece as well as cover-ups, and a larger range of sizes. Tops now feature cup sizes from B to F and bottoms are sized from 36 to 46. The company said that it hopes the swimwear range will help to sharpen the fashion image of the label.

 

Simone Pérèle

Simone Pérèle

Long one of the top three labels on the French lingerie scene, Simone Pérèle can expect its swimwear range to benefit from the current trend in favour of luxury bodywear.

 

2UNDR: new underwear controls temperature

 

FUNCTIONAL underwear developed by 2UNDR feature a fabric that incorporates crushed jade minerals, which is claimed to dissipate excess heat and to reduce body temperature by three to six degrees. The new boxers also feature an additional moisture control layer to wick away sweat as well as the Joey Pouch that eliminates unwanted skin-to-skin contact for reduced chafing and a perfect fit, the company says. Prices in the US are around USD 25.

 

2UNDR

2UNDR

The relatively high price will limit sales to consumers who really need the special functions provided by the boxers.

 

DOLLAR INDUSTRIES: export drive targets Africa

 

INDIAN innerwear manufacturer Dollar Industries, that claims to have a 15 per cent share of the national market for branded underwear, announced plans to start exporting to Africa. To be handled by the company’s existing office in Dubai, the African exports are expected to generate sales of at least USD 3.16m while exports to the Middle East region are expected to produce sales of USD 11.37m. The company that recorded sales of USD 115.25m in the 2014/15 fiscal year expects turnover to reach USD 134.2m in 2015/16.

 

Dollar Industries

Dollar Industries

The company’s growing exports are likely to lead to improvements in designs and product ranges, boosting its competititive strength in India as a result.

 

NUBIAN SKIN: entry made into US market

 

FOUNDED in the UK last year to provide lingerie and hosiery in various skin tones for women of colour, Nubian Skin has extended its distribution to the US. The brand has concluded a deal with Nordstrom.com that will propose the collection in its online store. In the UK, the brand provides a skin-tone guide on its website to help women find the right tone by matching it with the colours of leading cosmetic brands targeting the same market.

Nubian Skin

Nubian Skin

 

First launched by distributor Marks & Spencer two years ago, the concept proved successful enough in the UK to prompt its adoption by a wholesale brand. Its launch in the US could well create a similar success story.

 

DISTRIBUTION: evolution of chains and channels

 

UNDER ARMOUR: new sports bra range launched

 

BACKED by an advertising campaign featuring major personalities in different sports, the new collection of sports bras launched by Under Armour is divided into three categories based on different types of exercise. There are bras for low-impact, medium-impact and high-impact activities. The fancy high-impact bra features gel-lined straps, moulded foam cups, a mesh back panel and elastic band with hook and eye closure. Women’s wear items are now said to represent around 30 per cent of the chain’s apparel sales, equivalent to around USD 600m.

Under Armour

Under Armour

 

As the chain continues to expand internationally, its sports bra range will provide increasingly keener competition for national brands as well as for other international labels.

 

UNDIZ: panty selling machine moved to Paris

 

DESCRIBED here earlier this year (click here to access), the automated panty shopping machine launched early this year in the Toulouse branch of French lingerie chain Undiz is being set up in a central Parisian branch this month. As from September, the concept of the 270m2 Paris store located in the rue de Rivoli, which is also highly frequented by foreign visitors, is being expanded to include other items of innerwear.

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While the automated system is unlikely to boost significantly the value of sales by m2 selling space, it is certain to provide a great deal of word-of-mouth publicity that will generate extra sales in all branches of the chain.

 

FAST RETAILING: second Uniqlo store to open in Berlin

 

AROUND 18 months after it opened its first store in Berlin, the Uniqlo chain operated by Fast Retailing announced that it is preparing to open a second store there in the autumn of 2015. Located in established fashion area Leipziger Platz, the new 1’600 m2 store on two floors will propose the full range of Uniqlo appearel for men, women and children, including the best selling HeatTech and AIRism underwear that provide respectively thermal and cooling functions.

 

HeatTech by Uniqlo

HeatTech by Uniqlo

The relatively slow rate of the chain’s expansion in Germany provides a better opportunity for local manufacturers and distributors to prepare their defensive plans, which will surely be needed at some time in the future.

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PEOPLE: corporate personalities

 

MIGUEL ALMEIDA: joins Lululemon as VP Digital

 

YOGA wear specialist Lululemon announced the appointment of Miguel Almeida as Executive Vice President, Digital. Almeida, who holds an MBA from Harvard Business School, brings to the post more than 15 years of operational and senior leadership in digital strategies, most recently with Walgreens and earlier with Apple and Dell.

 

Miguel Almeida

Miguel Almeida

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EXHIBITIONSwhat to see and where to trade

 

MARE D’AMARE: around 250 brands to exhibit

 

OPENING on July 18 for three days in the Fortezza da Basso in Florence, the eighth edition of the Mare d’Amare Italian swimwear salon will feature around 250 brands, including 80 newcomers to the show. This year again, Invista and its Lycra Xtra Life fibre will provide special support for the event and the innovative digital platform, Mare d’Amare Digital, is being expanded and better structured to serve buyers unable to visit the show. Mare d’Amare President Alessandro Legnaioli commented: “Our real strength lies in our strong will of improving and doing really better every year since we have always been trying to offer a full and cutting-edge service to our visitors in order to make the full range of our supply available and easy to be accessed. It is no coincidence that our advertising campaign is referring to this different and lively approach. A happy guest is a very mindful guest and a mindful guest is better aware of their choices. Never forget that the beachwear universe is a lively and colorful universe itself, featured by light-heartedness and a quite peculiar and unique life style. This is what our project means.”

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The salon provides an appropriate showcase for the Italian swimwear sector and also features a number of important brands from other countries, which makes the event a promising opportunity also for international swimwear buyers.

 

MMC DESSOUS PARADIES: individuality promoted

 

OPENING on 17 July for three days in the MMC Leipzig, the MMC Dessous Paradies innerwear trade fair features 110 manufacturers showing a total of around 200 collections. The event’s slogan urges trade buyers to be more individual in their selection of merchandise and the show provides seminars and workshops devoted to such themes as the ideal assortment, store decoration, merchandising and networking.

MMC Dessous Paradies

MMC Dessous Paradies

 

An earlier attempts to develop an international salon in Leipzig had disappointing results and the show is likely to remain of only regional significance.

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 FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

HIS ‘N HERS: call made for segregated beaches

 

A GROUP of religious fanatics in Northern Spain has urged good Catholics to seek and use segregated beaches because mixed bathing almost always entails close proximity to sin and scandal. A Carlist group in Asturia published on Facebook a poster calling on Catholics to preserve their decency in summer by not going to mixed beaches. The group also advises men to wear a simple bathing suit, whatever that is, and women to wear a suit that covers the body and features a little skirt for when out of the water.

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As reported in last week’s issue, Spanish factories produced 4.4m pieces of swimwear in 2014 but we guess that only a handful featured a little skirt. Consequently, local bathers wishing to preserve their decency may be obliged to opt for a burkini if unable to find a segregated beach.

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