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Full text issue week 42-2015

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 42-2015 

Summary of news published in Week 41-2015

 

jpa4Sibil220THE PUBLICATION of a new report on erotic lingerie reflects the broader acceptance of the concept by women consumers, the efforts of independent retailers to overcome competition from chains as well as e-tailers and the search by manufacturers of new categories to develop. In the US, and to a growing extent in Europe, window displays and advertisements in trade publications suggest that erotic styles and labels account for a considerable proportion of the wholesale business and that chains, department stores and e-tailers have largely taken over the distribution of more traditional styles. The introduction by middle-of-the-road brands of so-called Boudoir lines also reflects growing demand for more mildly erotic styles. It could well be that an increasing number of women take pleasure in assuming a femme fatale personality when choosing lingerie, yet continue to wear more demure outer garments.

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

SAUDI ARABIA: problems found with female staff

EROTIC LINGERIE: report predicts strong growth

SPAIN: clothing sales continue to increase

KOREA: imports provide keener competition

BEACHWEAR: report focuses on Chinese scene

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

NILIT: 2015 trade fair presence updated

EUROJERSEY: five themes proposed for swimwear

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

FUNKITA: Australian label launched in US

BOSOM GALORE: collection now re-branded

HANESBRANDS: leg-shaping hosiery proposed                        

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

GLAMUSE: new owner plans major expansion

HUNKEMOELLER: bidders invited to tweak offers

MARKS & SPENCER: Indian growth focuses on lingerie

BRAVISSIMO: live video assistance boosts sales

AMERICAN APPAREL: Chapter 11 filing reported

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 PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

IVAN LAGO: made sales manager of Meryl Yarns

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

ECONOMY: free fuel offered to bikini wearers

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 BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

SAUDI ARABIA: problems found with female staff

 

LOCAL media reported that the Saudi government’s efforts to ensure that lingerie storesare staffed only by women are causing problems for retailers. Investor claim that more than 40 per cent of stores have closed because they are unable to retain female staff, mainly because separate toilet facilities for women are not available. An official noted that 80 per cent of women leave their job in retailing after a short period of work, often without prior notice. Traders also complaind that employing Saudi women cost much more than employing expatriate men.

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The labour problems described provide further reasons why online lingerie stores, together with other home shopping channels, should provide ideal shoppîng options for Saudi women and foreign residents.

 

EROTIC LINGERIE: report predicts strong growth

 

A REPORT published recently by Sandler Research under the title Global Erotic Lingerie Market 2015-2019 predicts that the market will grow at a CAGR of 7.1 per cent during the period covered. The 66 page report analyses four major companies and confirms that the spread of online trading has given a boost to that sector of the bodywear industry. At the same time, however, it notes that erotic products remain taboo in many regions, which has put a brake on development.

Baci Lingerie

Baci Lingerie

Our constant monitoring of the bodywear scene has led us to conclude that erotic lingerie has become the mainstay of many independent specialist retailers in the US and is following a similar evolution in Europe. We believe that, in time, offline sales of erotic styles will be generated mainly by independents while specialist chains and department stores will dominate the field of more traditional styles. But we also believe that e-tailers will win market share of both types of lingerie.

 

SPAIN: clothing sales continue to increase

 

FIGURES released by Comertia, the Catalan employers’ federation, show that consumption of clothing in Spain rose by 7.4 per cent in September against the same month a year earlier. This caused local producers to be more positive about prospects for October, with 45 per cent expecting an increase and 10 per cent predicting stable sales. Despite the modest growth recorded in August, the latest figures are held to confirm the improvement in the country’s economic prospects.

Dolores Cortés

Dolores Cortés

Except for Greece, Spain is the Mediterranean country that suffered most from the past recession, but it is now recovering most strongly.

 

KOREA: imports provide keener competition

 

LOCAL media report that imported lingerie brands are creating keener competition for Korean producers. The recent opening in Seoul of flagship stores by La Perla and Etam and the strong growth of Wonderbra sales are quoted as examples of the progress being made by imports. Since it entered the Korean market in 2009, Wonderbra has reported double-digit annual growth and now operates 54 dedicated stores there that generate annual sales equivalent to USD 101.6m. Local brands are attempting to react with expanded product lines and diversification of distribution channels.

Wonderbra

Wonderbra

There could well be many other markets, in Asia and elsewhere, that offer comparable growth prospects for Western brands that make a determined effort to win market share from local labels.

 

BEACHWEAR: report focuses on Chinese scene

 

ALTHOUGH it is proposed by distributor ReportsnReports under the title of Global and Chinese Beachwear Industry 2015, a new report on the beachwear sector focuses closely on the Chinese market. Besides reviewing industry developments over the past five years, the report provides an overview of the probable evolution to 2020. It also analyses such elements as upstream supplies, downstream demand and current market dynamics while evaluating the feasibility of swimwear projects.

Hosa

Hosa

The emphasis given to developments in China should prove of considerable value for brands considering an entry into the Chinese markets as well as for those seeking to assess the competitive strengths and weaknesses of Chinese beachwear labels.

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

NILIT: 2015 trade fair presence updated

 

LEADING nylon fibre and yarn producer Nilit circulated a reminder of the last opportunities to see its range of innovative products at trade fairs this year. The company will be present at Intertextile Shanghai from 13 to 15 October (Hall 5.2, Stand A-44), Performance Days Munich from 3 to 4 November (Hall 4, Stand 400) and ITMA in Milan from 12 to 19 November (Hall 8, Stand D-106).

Nilit

Nilit

Almost all of Nilit’s special yarns have been developed to meet the needs of the bodywear and legwear sectors for specific elements of performance.

 

EUROJERSEY: five themes proposed for swimwear

 

THE NEW collection of Sensitive swimwear fabrics for S/S 2017 created by Eurojersey, which is to be launched at the MarediModa salon in Cannes from 3 to 5 November 2015, reflects the influence of the Earth’s colours as seen from space. The five themes – Space-Earth, Surf, Savana, Aloe and Gardening – feature cold and iridescent sea colours, darker earthy tones and bright floral and fruit shades, all reproduced with the most advanced printing techniques.

Sensitive by Eurojersey

Sensitive by Eurojersey

 

The 3D printing that creates textures and relief effects represents another highlight of the collection. 

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 THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

FUNKITA: Australian label launched in US

 

FOUNDED by Australian national swimmer Duncan McLean in 2004, the Funkita swimwear label for women and Funky Trunks collection for men are being launched in the US. Industry veteran Phil Welch has been appointed to head the sales operation there. In its home country, the brands have prospered through sponsoring up-and-coming swimmer as well as established athletes and its bold fashion prints are much appreciated.

Funkita

Funkita

In the equally competitive US market, the Australian brands may also have to make substantial investments in endorsements if it is to become firmly established.

 

BOSOM GALORE: collection now re-branded                         

 

AS IT LAUNCHED its new collection for A/W 2015/16, the company that started up under the Bosom Galore label announced that it now trades under the name of its founder, as Katherine Hamilton Intimates. The new collection maintains the original concept of serving women with a fuller bust and small band size: from 26D to 34HH and 36G. It features three styles inspired by retro concepts and enlivened with a hint of S&M.

Katherine Hamilton Intimates

Katherine Hamilton Intimates

As we commented when we first reviewed the Bosom Galore collection, the concept well deserves to succeed, and not only in the UK since its target customers are everywhere.

 

HANESBRANDS: leg-shaping hosiery proposed         

 

LAUNCHED late in September, the hosiery range of HanesBrands features the X-Temp technology that provides comfort through the day as well as the Hanes Power Shapers collection that combines a shaping action with run-resistant technology. The X-Temp technology that is applied to sheers, tights and leggings is derived from the X-Temp range of underwear that adapts to the wearer’s body temperature to maximize comfort at all times.

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The combination of leg shaping with resistance to runs promises to appeal strongly to women everywhere rather than mainly in the US.

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 DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels                                                   

 

GLAMUSE: new owner plans major expansion

 

FOLLOWING his acquisition of French e-commerce Glamuse, Patrice Legrand said that he intends to grow the business internationally. Legrand, who was a co-founder of a leading French online bank when he was only 24, is now President of the online store and has reinforced the management team. Glamuse has also been relocated in Luxemburg, which is said to be more suitable for its planned development. Founded in 2011, Glamuse features most of the leading upmarket brands in its assortment. Its ambitious expansion plans include sites in different languages.

Dita von Teese

Dita von Teese

The track record of the new owner and President makes it likely that the e-commerce will achieve its planned expansion and become a major player in its field.

 

HUNKEMOELLER: bidders invited to tweak offer

 

NEWS agency Reuters reported that private equity groups attempting to acquire the Hunkemöller lingerie chain have been invited to revise their bid in the light of the stronger EBITDA achieved since July 2015. The report adds that while most of the original bidders remained, the Carlyle group had withdrawn from the process. A final decision is expected in November 2015.

Hunkemöller

Hunkemöller

Since the sale process involves only a change of ownership between private equity groups, the deal is unlikely to lead to significant changes in management policies and objectives.

 

MARKS & SPENCER: Indian growth focuses on lingerie

 

SPEAKING to US business newspaper Wall Street Journal, the Marks & Spencer head of international business Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne said that lingerie was one of the chain’s best-performing categories in India, accounting for around 20 per cent of sales there. Following the success of the lingerie and beauty flagship store opened in Mumbai in 2014, at least 20 of the 50 M&S openings being prepared in India will be lingerie and beauty stores.

Marks & Spencer

Marks & Spencer

Though challenged by other chains in the UK, Marks & Spencer remains a market leader in the field of lingerie, a category that plays a decisive role in the chain’s international expansion.

 

BRAVISSIMO: live video assistance boosts sales

 

BRITISH lingerie chain Bravissimo reported that a video-assisted support it introduced to its e-commerce site is converting three times more sales than unassisted browsing. The software developed by Vee24 allows customers to select the extent and type of interaction that takes place with the site’s trained personnel so that they feel in control the whole time. Post-call surveys of customers show that approval of the assistance is expressed by over 90 per cent of callers.

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It appears that the video assistance program merits the attention of all lingerie e-commerce operations seeking to improve their rate of conversion into sales.

 

AMERICAN APPAREL: Chapter 11 filing reported

 

LONG troubled US distributor American Apparel finally filed for protection from its creditors under Chapter 11 as its debts reached USD 300m. The company said that it has begun to implement restructuring measures intended to reduce its debt to USD 135m within the coming six months. It also said that the restructuring would affect neither its production facilities in the US nor its store network in the US and other countries.

American Apparel

American Apparel

The Chapter 11 move also protects the business from action taken by founder and former CEO Dov Charney who is contesting his dismissal on grounds of sexual harassment.

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities                                      

 

IVAN LAGO: made sales manager of Meryl Yarns

 

 SPANISH nylon fibre and yarn producer Nylstar announced the appointment of Ivan Lago as Sales Manager for Meryl Yarns. Lago, who holds a degree in Chemical Engineering from the University of Barcelona, had been Supply Chain Manager for Nylstar since March 2014. Earlier, he had been a consultant in the fields of quality and environmental performance.

Ivan Lago

Ivan Lago

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

ECONOMY: free fuel offered to bikini wearers

 

FOR A PROMOTION intended to extend the period of summer fun, a service station in Ukraine offered a full tank of fuel to all motorists, men as well as women, arriving in a swimsuit. Reporting on the event, local newspaper Ukraine Today expressed surprise that customers were taking up the offer to save money rather than to contribute to summer fun.

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Customers were well aware that summer fun and the cost of a full tank were two very different things, and they chose to favour their wallets.

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