Home | Others | Full text issue week 43-2015

Full text issue week 43-2015

New-Penn-TS-banner500

ISSN 1994-2419

Sibil-newsletter-logo200

Issue Week 43-2015

Summary of news published in Week 42-2015

 

jpa4Sibil220THE NEWS this week contains two items of information that confirm Shakespeare was right when he wrote that “Uneasy lies the head that wears a crown”. Both e-tailer Adore Me in the US and retail chain Calzedonia in Italy have named Victoria’s Secret as the opposition to beat when attempting to establish a strong position in the US market. The US chain’s owner, L Brands, may not yet be sleeping uneasily but it will need to sharpen its competitive edge if it is to fend off the attack of the two challengers, with probably more to come. While the promised competitive clash is unlikely to cause Victoria’s Secret to disappear, it will certainly undermine its dominance of the US lingerie market, giving consumers there a greater choice of merchandise over a broader spread of price points. The keener competition will also affect department stores, obliging some chains to review their policies relating to brands and private labels. It looks as though all the players on the US lingerie scene face interesting times.

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

Wegal-Banner500x80

 

BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

FASHION: Paris scene interpreted in bodywear terms

 Willy-Hrmnn_Banner500x80

 

SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

NILIT: Duelle yarn adopted by hosiery leader

 Dogi-banner500x80

 

 THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

LA PERLA: boutique network expands rapidly

CHANTELLE: plant closure prompts labour protest

FELINA: labour force reduction announced

PMC LINGERIE: Mojito label adds homewear to range

ANITA: US website starts selling to consumers

 NUREL-banner500x80

          

DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

ADORE ME: E-tailer reports meteoric growth

RIGBY & PELLER: 3D mirror now in Hong Kong store

YAMAMAY: first store opened in Germany

CALZEDONIA: expansion into US envisaged

  M2-banner500x80

                                 

 PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

GUILLAUME THERY: to helm Esprit Asia activities

HEATH GOLDEN: resigns from Bendon post

 NILIT-duomix-500x80

 

EXHIBITIONS– what to see and where to trade

 

MAREDIMODA: to host top 100 European suppliers

 Liebaert-banner500x80

 

FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

NAKED UNTRUTH: French driver fails to convince

 Radici-banner500x80

         

Click here to access the complete text of this issue

 

 BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

FASHION: Paris scene interpreted in bodywear terms

 

THOUGH titled Rich Textures for Casual End-Uses and subheaded Première Vision, the latest report from Concepts Paris, the only styling consultancy specialized exclusively in bodywear, also reviews the entire current Paris fashion scene as it relates to intimate apparel. As all other reports from that source, it is richly illustrated with fashion and trend theme boards and photos of specific fashion details. As the title implies, the report concludes that luxury fabrics are playing an increasingly important role on the current fashion scene.

Concepts Paris

Concepts Paris

Because the consultancy’s recommendations inspire the look of the most influential collections worldwide, they provide creative personnel with valuable insights on the evolution of bodywear styling.

 See also:

COLOURS: colour trends at Paris shows analysed

STYLING: importance of visual impact stressed

INSPIRATION: new report targets designers

 Lycra-banner500x80

 

SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

NILIT: Duelle yarn adopted by hosiery leader

 

MAJOR world producer of nylon 6.6 yarns Nilit announced that its heather effect yarn Duelle has been adopted by Steps, that describes itself as the world’s largest producer of invisible socks. Duelle, which is made by spinning together Nilit Pastelle and Nilit Colorwise yarns allows the production of heather effects with a single-step dyeing process. Steps is based in the Netherlands and operates facilities in Poland and Cambodia to produce its seamless and non-slip fit foot socks.

Duelle byNilit

Duelle byNilit

Once widely used for intimate apparel, heather effect fabrics lost their appeal for some years but there have been signs of a revival in demand during recent months.

 See also:

NILIT: 2015 trade fair presence updated

NILIT: new brochure promotes aquarius fibre

NILIT: new melange yarn added to product range

 Textra-banner500x80

 

 THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

LA PERLA: boutique network expands rapidly  

 

LUXURY lingerie and homewear label La Perla is forging ahead with the expansion of its retail network. It announced that it has opened no less than 10 new boutiques in the past four months, said to be among the busiest in its history. These include two flagship stores in Seoul and Barcelona, as well as a 600m2 store in Hong Kong and other outlets in Miami, Houston and Chicago in the US, Beijing and Sanya in China and one new store in its home country, Italy. All the boutiques feature separate sections for the men’s and women’s collections as well as Private Lounges on the first floor for customers seeking made-to-measure garments. The store design concept, created by Robert Baciocchi reflects elements of classical Italian architecture, combining elegant arch design with luxurious blue marble.

La Perla

La Perla

The luxurious prestige of its retail stores promises to create stronger demand for the range from top-of-the-line department stores and independent specialists.

See also:

LA PERLA: refurbished New York store re-opened

LA PERLA: licence of hosiery concern expanded

LA PERLA: diversifies into household textiles

 

 

CHANTELLE: plant closure prompts labour protest

 

FRENCH labour unions led by the Communist-inspired CGT staged a protest march in Lorient, Brittany to protest against the impending closure of a Chantelle production unit in near-by Lanester. The march was led by Chantelle employees wearing items of lingerie over their clothes and carrying racks of lingerie instead of banners. The Chantelle group had announced in June 2015 that it intended to dispose of the facility by mid-October but an employee said that no details of a promised takeover had been released. A labour union official said that the sale or closure of the production unit would mean that all the brand’s merchandise would be produced offshore.

Chantelle Photo Ouest France

Chantelle Photo Ouest France

In contrast to workers in the UK and the US, who understand that adverse trading conditions can cause employers to downsize or to outsource production, obliging them to seek alternative employment, French workers have been conditioned to expect as a right lifetime employment with the same employer. In time, this might make it impossible to find foreign investors in French brands that need to be restructured in order to achieve a turnaround. Already, it is making it difficult for French labels, that have to cope with exceptionally high social charges, to remain competitive in European and world markets.

 See also:

CHANTELLE: French production unit to be closed

CHANTELLE: sports bra added to product range

 

 FELINA: labour force reduction announced

 

GERMAN lingerie brand Felina, that was acquired by a private equity firm earlier in 2015, announced a reduction of the labour force in its Mannheim production unit. The current total of 123 employees is to be cut by about 20. The move is said to have been prompted by a 10 per cent decline in sales due to economic conditions in Russia and to the launch of the Unusual label for young women that took place earlier in 2015. The management added that the labour force of facilities in Eastern European countries has already been adjusted. In 2014, Felina sales amounted to about EUR 50m and the company serves some 6500 accounts worldwide.

Felina

Felina

Several other German bodywear labels count Russia among their major export markets and have, or might soon, adjust their production capacity accordingly.

See also:

FELINA: focus placed on core brands

FELINA : acquired by private equity firm

 

PMC LINGERIE: Mojito label adds homewear to range

 

FRENCH bodywear group PMC Lingerie, that also proposes the Envie de Lingerie and Petit Béguin bodywear collections, announced that its Mojito label has launched for A/W 2015/16 its first collection of homewear to complement its ranges of lingerie and beachwear. The homewear range that comprises eight styles is said to reflect the design trends of the lingerie collection while being inspired by current fashion trends. Like other collections of PMC Lingerie, it is intended for distribution by large out of town stores selling at popular prices.

Mojito by PMC Lingerie

Mojito by PMC Lingerie

The entry of homewear into popular price stores reflects the trend that was identified in higher price categories two years ago.

 

 ANITA: US website starts selling to consumers

 

AFTER many years of using its US website to promote its brand and image as well as to support its wholesale customers, German lingerie brand Anita is reported by local trade magazine Body to have started selling to consumers. However, a check on the company’s US website showed that, in contrast to the B2C operations of some other brands, that of Anita is a rather low key effort that is likely to attract mainly consumers in locations far from physical stockists.

Anita

Anita

Nevertheless, the operation of a B2C online store by a wholesale brand always risks being perceived by retailers as unfair competition. As we have written before, most wholesale brands that operate a B2C online store do so to fill in gaps in their physical distribution. To maximize the benefits of their operation, however, they have much to gain from the conception and implementation of a system intended to compensate their wholesale customers for presumed lost sales. Since practically all retailers provide loyalty cards that earn discounts for their customers, such cards could provide the key to compensation systems.

 See also :

ANITA : breast prostheses moulds 3D printed

ESPRIT : Franchisees given share in online sales

New creora banner500

 

DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels                                                   

 

ADORE ME: E-tailer reports meteoric growth

 

THE PRESTIGIOUS business ranking site Inc. 5000, which named lingerie e-tailer Adore Me second most important retail company in the US, and 14th in its overall classification, noted that the online store had raised its sales by 15’606 per cent in the three years to 2014. Revenue mushroomed from USD 1.1m in 2012 to USD 16.2m in 2014. Interviewed by Business Insider in summer 2015, Adore Me director of business and brand development Sharon Klapka commented: “We aim to slay Victoria’s Secret. They are slow, they are expensive, they make women feel sidelined. It is about time that someone really revolutionized the space, and we’re doing it.” Among the measures cited to reach the objective, Ms Klapka included offering a wider selection of sizes, using technology to gauge what consumers want, advertsing smartly and being faster than competitors.

Adore Me

Adore Me

To date, the impressive track record of the e-tailer suggests that it could well reach its objective, and perhaps even surpass it by an appreciable margin.

 See also :

MARKETING : e-tailer reveals more consumer reactions

ADVERTISING : plus-size models found to boost sales

ADVERTISING : blonde models generate less lingerie sales

 

 RIGBY & PELLER: 3D mirror now in Hong Kong store

 

AFTER it proved highly successful in the London flagship store of Rigby & Peller, where it was installed in May 2015, a 3D mirror that measures bra sizes was introduced into the chain’s Hong Kong store. The digital body scanner creates a 3D model of the upper body, determining the body type and recording over 140 measurements. The image allows a store counsellor to recommend the most suitable styles and colours for the customer’s figure and shape. The mirror photographs the customer in every product and displays the images on the monitor, allowing her to make an immediate comparison and to select her preferred styles. Details of items purchased are all saved for the next visit, creating a unique shopping experience for the customer. Kelly Dunmore, a Rigby & Peller store manager in London, told trade publication Lingerie Insight: “Women who come for the first time to our store are often frustrated and embarrassed because they cannot find a bra that fits them perfectly. There is too much choice; they don’t know where to start looking. If you take a few minutes to let themselves be measured in our mirror, you will find out their unique ShapeID and can immediately show them all the styles available in their size.“

Rigby-&-Peller-knightsbridge220

Obviously, the payback period for the high-tech mirror will depend on the prices of the merchandise sold by the store. But it is highly likely that when the appropriate data are available, they will show that the 3D mirror helps significantly to boost a store’s earnings.

 See also:

RIGBY & PELLER: brand switch implemented in US

RIGBY & PELLER: first franchise to open in Germany

VAN DE VELDE: sales growth maintained in 2014

 

YAMAMAY: first store opened in Germany

 

FOLLOWING the appointment of a master franchiser there, the first dedicated store in Germany of the Yamamay lingerie chain is opening this week. The 90m2 store in a Bochum shopping mall proposes day and night lingerie and a limited selection of beachwear at prices ranging from EUR 4.99 to EUR 59.99. Within the coming two years, Yamamay shops-in-shop are expected to open in 36 Wöhrl stores as well as in many SinnLeffer stores throughout the country.

Yamamay

Yamamay

The fashionable merchandise at affordable prices proposed by Yamamay should allow its stores to win an appreciable volume of sales from established lingerie chains as well as independents in Germany.

 See also:

YAMAMAY: new beach concept launched in Spain

YAMAMAY: expands further in Canaries islands

 

CALZEDONIA: expansion into US envisaged

 

INTERVIEWED by Bloomberg TV, Italian entrepreneur Sandro Veronesi, who owns and controls the Calzedonia concern that also operates the Intimissimi and Tezenis lingerie and underwear chains, said that he envisages expanding his activities to the USA, with the first stores opening there within a couple of years. His statement was made in response to being asked how he felt about Victoria’s Secret entering the Italian market and Veronesi added: “We will start maybe from New York, which is a fashion city, and then we will expand in the major cities. There is a dominant competitor in the United States, but that is maybe a reason why also women would like to have an alternative.” In 2014, the Calzedonia group generated sales of around EUR 1.8bn while L Brands Inc. that operates other chains besides Victoria’s Secret, declared revenue of USD 11.4bn.

Intimissimi by Calzedonia

Intimissimi by Calzedonia

The Intimissimi lingerie ranges in particular offer high fashion and good quality at affordable prices and should be able to compete very effectively with the US chain in all respects other than brand recognition. The problem for Intimissimi is that brand recognition could well prove to be a decisive factor.

 See also :

CALZEDONIA : chain to open men’s underwear stores

CALZEDONIA : export sales to rise yet further

CALZEDONIA : Intimissimi flagship reopens in Madrid

SunSelect500x80

 

 PEOPLE – corporate personalities                                      

 

GUILLAUME THERY: to helm Esprit Asia activities

 

LEISURE and body wear distributor Esprit announced the appointment of Guillaume Thery as General Manager of Asia/Pacific region, reporting direct to CEO José Martinez. Thery began his career with Marks & Spencer and later moved to LVMH where he became President of the Asian fashion group.

Guillaume Thery

Guillaume Thery

 

HEATH GOLDEN: resigns from Bendon post

 

CURRENTLY President Western Hemisphere of Bendon Group, Heath Golden said that he is leaving the lingerie wholesale business on 23 October to become President of a men’s accessories brand. Golden had joined Bendon in January 2014.

Heath Golden

Heath Golden

Lenzing 2015 banner 500x80

 

EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

MAREDIMODA: to host top 100 European suppliers

 

THE NEXT edition, the 14th, of the MarediModa trade fair for swimwear fabrics and other bodywear production supplies, which is to be staged in Cannes from 3 to 5 November 2015, will feature the 100 best European suppliers among its exhibitors. The show will also provide visitors with an overview of beachwear fashion trends for S/S 2017, conferences of eco-sustainability and the evolution of the industry, contacts with potential contractors in the Euro-Med region for outsourcing, specialized design studios and the innovative work of gifted young designers.

MarediModa

MarediModa

The event, which is dedicated to supplies originating in Europe, the traditional source of innovation for the beachwear sector, has developed over the years into an essential element of the swimwear scene.

 See also:

MAREDIMODA: trend area to be improved further

MAREDIMODA: 2017 fabrics to be shown in Miami

MAREDIMODA: new approach made to trends service

 

FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

NAKED UNTRUTH: French driver fails to convince

 

ARRESTED by the local police for driving a car in the nude, a man in France told the officers that he was trying to avoid creasing his trousers. When asked why he had also removed his underpants, the man replied that he never wore them. Later, in court, the prosecuting counsel asked for a three months suspended jail sentence and a fine of EUR 500. The judges opted for a 15 days suspended sentence and a fine of EUR 250.

Naked-Untruth220

The court’s sentence suggests that it is time for French men’s underwear brands to start lobbying for stronger measures against naked driving.

Piave-new-500x80

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*

Anti-spam check (Confirm that you are a human being) : *