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Full text issue week 48-2015

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 48-2015           

Summary of news published in Week 47-2015

jpa4Sibil220SEVERAL of the news items featured in this week’s issue of the SIBIL newsletter reflect the still growing importance of brand names and labels. This has long been recognized by brand owners but, in recent years, major distributors’ private labels have acquired considerably greater importance and significance than in the past. So much so that some private labels have achieved a level of customer recognition and loyalty comparable to that enjoyed by commercial brands and even, in some cases, superior to that of the distributor. The benefits of this evolution are obvious but not without risks. While brand recognition enhances the positive qualities of the merchandise associated with the label, it also amplifies the negative effects of any shortcomings. Meeting consistently the promises of a label in terms of design and quality is one of the achievements that set apart the winners form the losers.

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

INDIA: foreign online stores now allowed

SWIMWEAR: market growth to 2019 estimated

UK: online sales of lingerie maintain growth

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

LENZING: new group strategy unveiled

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

INTIMA MODA: focus placed on Verdissima

HANRO: brand honoured by the S.I.L.

FOGAL: acquired by Swiss swimwear brand

GISELA: brand’s first retail store opened in Malaga

SALINAS: Tommy Hilfiger licence secured

K.BLU: distribution in US secured

GILDAN: sales edged forward in Q3

YSE: first retail store opened in Paris

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

YAMAMAY: Naomi Campbell retained for collection

CALZEDONIA: Spanish operation slips back into red

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

MANEL JIMENEZ: to join Grupo Cortefiel

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

EUROVET: bodywear salons switched to Lyon

MODA: dedicated space given to bodywear

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

FRAUD: donations spent on luxury lingerie

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

INDIA: foreign online stores now allowed

 

THE INDIAN government relaxed its rule concerning sales in India by e-commerce platforms based in other counties. New rules allow online stores based elsewhere to set up their own websites in India to sell directly into the Indian market. According to a report published by Bank of America and Merrill Lynch, online sales of consumer goods in India are expected to grow at an annual rate of 10 per cent to reach a value of USD 220bn by 2025.

Penny by Zivame

Penny by Zivame

The relatively under-developed retail distribution sector in India provides excellent sales opportunities for online stores there. At the same time, other reports have indicated promising growth prospects for intimate apparel in India. But the rapid development of local online distributors of intimate apparel could make it difficult for e-commerce platforms based elsewhere to start serving the Indian market. Consequently, alliances or joint ventures with local distributors could well provide the best opportunities for foreign companies to expand their operations to India.

 

See also:

INDIA: colour boosts innerwear sales

CLOVIA: Indian e-tailer plans global expansion

INDIA: prospects for swimwear brighten

 

SWIMWEAR: market growth to 2019 estimated

 

THE LATEST report on the swimwear market predicts that global sales will grow at a CAGR of 5.77 per cent in the five years to 2019. Available from Sandler Research under the title The Global Swimwear Market 2015-2019, the 71-page report provides comprehensive data on end-users as well as all major distribution channels. It includes comments on both the existing market characteristics and growth prospects for the coming years.

Seafolly

Seafolly

The predicted growth rate should bring encouragement to all players in the global swimwear supply chain.

 

See also:

SWIMWEAR: global market trends analyzed

INDIA: prospects for swimwear brighten

MAXIM: magazine to market swimwear line

 

UK: online sales of lingerie maintain growth

 

ONLINE sales of lingerie in the UK continued to strengthen in October despite the weakest online sales performance in 16 year that month. While total UK online sales in October rose by 8.9 per cent in October 2015, according to the IMRG Capgemini e-Retail Sales Index, sales of lingerie rose by 19 per cent. At the same time, the index showed that online-only retailers raised their sales by 18 per cent in October whereas multichannel distributors progressed by only 4 per cent.

Agent Provocateur

Agent Provocateur

The figures illustrate the strength of the lingerie market and confirm our often repeated prediction that online sales are destined to dominate the lingerie market, not only in the UK but in most countries.

 

See also:

LINGERIE: prime target of UK shoplifters

UK: new study analyses lingerie market

UK: average bra size continues to grow

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 SUPPLIERSinformation from the upstream sector

 

LENZING: new group strategy unveiled

 

UNDER the title sCore TEN, the new group strategy of cellulose fibre world leader Lenzing was unveiled. As the title implies, the new strategy calls for strengthening the company’s core business but it also includes a number of equally important objectives. These involve intensifying cooperation with customers among the value chain, increasing the share of speciality fibres to 50 per cent of total revenue by 2020, expanding quality and technological leadership in the field of cellulose fibres and opening up attractive new business areas. Click here to access more details of the new group strategy.

New Tencel plant

New Tencel plant

Details of the new strategy underline the extent to which the company is developing its strengths to achieve sustainable growth and viability.

 

See also:

LENZING: Q3 confirms positive earnings trends

LENZING: 50 years of Modal celebrated

LENZING: service to Asian customers improved

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 THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

INTIMA MODA: focus placed on Verdissima

 

LEADING Italian lingerie concern Intima Moda said that it has decided to concentrate all its marketing efforts on the Verdissima brand, now designed by Angela Gibellini, at the expense of the three other labels it has operated hitherto: Verde Veronica, Margherita Mazzei and You. CEO Marco Zonchello explained that the decision was prompted by the belief that Verdissima has the most promising growth potential. At the same time, the company announced that it has adopted a new retail concept, covering physical stores and e-commerce under the You Concept. The four existing stores, all in Italy, are to be supplemented by other outlets, also in Italy, with priority being given to outlets in Rome and Milan.

Verdissima

Verdissima

It is probable that the labels to be dropped lacked adequate personalization to differentiate them from the Verdissima brand in terms of consumer appeal. There is a lesson here to be learned by all manufacturers that operate several labels.

 

HANRO: brand honoured by the S.I.L.

 

AS IT DOES each year, the Salon International de la Lingerie (S.I.L.), which will be staged in Paris from 23 to 25 January 2016, announced its choice for the Designer of the Year award. For 2016, the prize is awarded to Swiss underwear brand Hanro. The award, to be presented during the salon, rewards the luxury underwear collections of Hanro, as well as its ranges of nightwear and loungewear, presented during the past years. Marie-Laure Bellon, CEO of Eurovet that organizes the salon, commented: “The perfectionism applied to elegance and quality, which has made Hanro known and appreciated globally, prompted us to select the brand as Designer of the Year 2016.”

Hanro

Hanro

Recognized for its high quality since its birth in 1884, the Hanro label is now rewarded for the design innovation and fashion content demonstrated by its collections in recent years.

 

See also:

HANRO: range diversified into outerwear

HANRO: wireless spacer bra added to range

HANRO: local partner to promote expansion in Spain

 

FOGAL: acquired by Swiss swimwear brand

 

SWISS hosiery brand Fogal, together with its network of retail stores, has been disposed of by its previous owner, the Gaydoul Group. The new owner is Swiss swimwear brand Lahco and all parties have agreed not to divulge the price of the deal. Lahco and Fogal worked together in 2014 to develop jointly a swimwear collection.

Lahco

Lahco

Both the hosiery and swimwear labels have encountered problems in recent years and the merger could well prove once again that the blend of two underperforming brands does not necessarily produce a more viable business.

 

GISELA: brand’s first retail store opened in Malaga

 

SPANISH intimate apparel brand Gisela, that generated wholesale business worth EUR 14m in 2014 through some 1’500 sales outlets in Spain and some 30 other countries, opened its first standalone retail store. Located in Malaga, the store proposes the label’s complete range of lingerie, sleepwear and swimwear but the brand has neither confirmed nor denied that the opening marks a first move towards building a retail network.

Gisela

Gisela

The growing strength of specialized lingerie chains, not only in Spain but throughout Europe, is reducing the number of independent multi-brand specialists and consequently encouraging manufacturers to invest in the distribution sector.

 

SALINAS: Tommy Hilfiger licence secured

 

MAJOR Brazilian swimwear label Salinas has secured from the brand’s owner PVH Corp. a licence to produce and market a capsule swimwear collection under the Tommy Hilfiger label. The collection of 36 pieces was launched in Brazilian Tommy Hilfiger stores, as well as in selected stores of the brand in the Caribbean area, in October 2015. Inspired by the S/S 2015 sportswear collection of the label, the swimwear range blends a classic and cool American style with Brazilian fashion influences.

Salinas

Salinas

If it proves successful in South America, the swimwear licence could be granted to manufacturers or distributors in other countries.

 

See also:

SALINAS: diversifies into Fitness wear with Adidas

 

K.BLU: distribution in US secured

 

LAUNCHED only in 2014, Singapore luxury swimwear brand K.BLU announced that a recent deal with Anthropologie will allow it to enter the US market for the coming season. At the same time, the brand released its latest lookbook for “Coral Porcelain”, its latest capsule collection that is being launched in January 2016. This incorporates an original signature print inspired by blue and white Chinese porcelain set against coral shade highlights and is applied to bikinis, a one-piece suit, bomber jacket and draped top.

K.BLU

K.BLU

The young label’s entry into the Anthropologie assortment promises to allow it to make a significant impact on the US swimwear market.

 

GILDAN: sales edged forward in Q3

 

CANADIAN bodywear brand Gildan announced third quarter results that showed consolidated net sales up by 1.27 per cent year-on-year, to CAD 674.5m. Although this fell short of previously announced guidance figures, the company said that results for the fourth quarter are expected to be significantly in excess of earnings in the same period for any previous year in the company’s history. This is attributed to benefits from reduced manufacturing costs, lower cotton costs and rapid growth in sales revenue.

Gildan

Gildan

Despite fluctuating business conditions in its major markets, the company continues to achieve very adequate performance.

 

See also:

GILDAN: retail underwear market targeted

GILDAN: price-cutting strategy adopted

 

YSE: first retail store opened in Paris

 

THE FIRST French bra brand conceived specifically to meet the needs of women with smaller breasts, Ysé, that was available only through the label’s website since its launch in 2012, opened its first physical store in Paris. The design of the 40m2 store is intended to create the atmosphere of a private home but offers customers a comprehensive multimedia environment. Customers have access to iPads that allow them to access the brand’s online store, its blog and lookbook as well social networks. The iPads also provide a guide to bra sizes and shapes available within the store.

Ysé

Ysé

The physical store will generate a much smaller sales volume than the website but it confers upon the brand an element of prestige that was lacking up to now.

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

YAMAMAY: Naomi Campbell retained for collection

 

LONG ranked among global supermodels, Naomi Campbell has signed a limited edition lingerie collection being proposed for Christmas by specialist distribution chain Yamamay. Labelled I’m Naomi Campbell, the collection comprises seven lines of bondage-inspired bodys, robes and bras featuring sheer panelling and jewelled decorations. Highlights of the collection include the Iconic triangle bra in purple satin and black lace and the Lucille push-up bra featuring sequined embroidery.

Naomi Campbell & Yamamay

Naomi Campbell & Yamamay

The extent to which Ms Campbell effecta number of pieces including ively contributed to the collection remains unknown but the resulting label is certain to win the attention of retailers and consumers.

 

See also:

YAMAMAY: first store opened in Germany

YAMAMAY: new Beach concept launched in Spain

YAMAMAY: expands further in Canaries islands

 

CALZEDONIA: Spanish operation slips back into red

 

TRADING as Franchising Calzedonia Spain, the Spanish subsidiary of the Italian distribution group Calzedonia slipped into the red in 2014 with a loss of EUR 176’000 on sales that had risen by 12.2 per cent to EUR 219.95m. A year earlier, the Spanish company had generated sales of EUR 196m and achieved a profit of EUR 1.5m. In 2014, the Spanish operation counted among the group’s largest, with over 500 stores, including 299 franchised outlets, employing some 1’500 people.

Intimissimi by Calzedonia

Intimissimi by Calzedonia

Faced with strong competition from local lingerie chains that have also built an extensive international network, the performance of the Italian group in Spain has proved surprisingly successful.

 

See also:

CALZEDONIA: premium line of tights launched

CALZEDONIA: expansion into US envisaged

CALZEDONIA: chain to open men’s underwear stores

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 PEOPLE – corporate personalities                                      

 

MANEL JIMENEZ: to join Grupo Cortefiel

 

ACCORDING to Spanish online trade medium modaes.es, the current Supply Chain Director of casual wear brand Desigual, Manel Jiménez, is to join distribution concern Grupo Cortefiel, that operates the Women’Secret lingerie chain, in a similar function in 2016. Earlier in his career, Jiménez had held key executive positions in the food sector.

Manel Jiménez

Manel Jiménez

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

EUROVET: bodywear salons switched to Lyon

 

BECAUSE the final of the Euro 2016 soccer tournament is planned to take place in Paris on 10 July 2016, organisers Eurovet announced that the 2016 summer edition of the Mode City and Interfilière salons will return to Lyon from 9 to 11 July. Since 2008, when the bodywear salons were last staged in Lyon, many new airline routes serve the city and its hotel accommodation has been much expanded. Transport facilities from the city and its airport to the fair grounds has also been improved considerably. Intending visitors are asked to visit the salon’s web site for more information on hotel reservations and transport facilities.

Eurovet

Eurovet

Now that international and local transport facilities have been expanded, few regular exhibitors and visitors will regret this exceptional return to the original venue.

 

MODA: dedicated space given to bodywear

 

UK APPAREL trade show Moda said that the new format it plans to launch for 2016 includes a dedicated exhibition space for lingerie and swimwear. Event Director Penny Robinson commented: “The time is right to introduce a dedicated exhibition space for Moda Lingerie & Swimwear. The product will benefit from its own dedicated platform and a new, more intimate setting where those in the sector can meet with other, like-minded business professionals. The move into a new hall maintains the convenient adjacencies with Moda Woman and Accessories, while giving lingerie and swimwear collections a suitable environment of their own within which they can showcase their latest designs to their best potential.” Comments by exhibitors show that they also approve the move.

Panache

Panache

The provision of a dedicated hall reflects the importance of the bodywear sector as an element of the fashion industry.

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

FRAUD: donations spent on luxury lingerie

 

HONG KONG media reported that the chief nun at a local monastery had bought luxury lingerie, as well as jewellery, cosmetics, furniture and other goods and services with donations intended to pay for building repairs. The lingerie bill alone amounted to HKD 11’340, which was recorded as repair expenses in the monastery accounts.

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Although the nun can no longer hope to be admitted to paradise, at least she can expect to enter the other place suitably attired to tempt resident sinners.

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