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Full text issue week 50-2015

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 50-2015           

Summary of news published in Week 49-2015

 

jpa4Sibil220THE NEWS reported here last week appears to provide conflicting indications of developments in Europe. While the revival of clothing consumption in France could well prove to be only a blip, the rise of consumer confidence in Spain confirms the improvement noted there over the past months. What is more significant are reports of new projects to boost US sales by European brands. These suggest that a growing number of European manufacturers are reacting to near-stagnation in their home markets by launching new export drives to the US. Whether or not these endeavours generate more sales, they show at least that European management teams are taking positive action to counter difficult trading conditions in their home markets rather than waiting passively for conditions to improve. Such positive reactions are evidence of determination to overcome adverse conditions and, though not all will be successful, they bode well for the future evolution of the intimate apparel sector in Europe.

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

FRANCE: clothing sales strengthened in October

SPAIN: consumer confidence nears historic high

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

WILLY HERMANN: honoured by Interfilière

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

QUIKSILVER: expansion in Brazil maintained

PAS GROUP: Jets swimwear business acquired

LOVABLE ITALY: retail expansion continues

GOSSARD: US sales campaign intensified

McALSON: new website to boost US sales

AURA LINGERIE: diversifies into branded business

AUBADE: capsule planned with Paris couturier

AMANTE: first Indian retail store to be opened

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

CORTEFIEL: strong growth reported in Russia

MARKS & SPENCER: tops UK loyalty index

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

THOMAS OBENDRAUF: joins Lenzing as CFO

JOELLE PELLEGRIN: named President of VF Brands

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EXHIBITIONS– what to see and where to trade

 

PREMIERE VISION: to partner with Ifm on research

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

BURNING ISSUE: smartphone sets man’s pants on fire

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

FRANCE: clothing sales strengthened in October

 

FIGURES provided by the Institut français de la mode (Ifm) show that retail sales of apparel in France rose by 4.9 per cent year-on-year in October 2015. At the same time in 2014, sales had declined by 4.3 per cent. Volume distribution chains benefited most from the increase, with a gain of 12.2 per cent, while home shopping channels suffered a 4.4 per cent decline. The October sales revival allowed the first ten months of the year to show a 1 per cent year-on-year increase.

Chantelle

Chantelle

Considering the effects of high unemployment, the October gain is exceptional but November results are likely to show a setback as a result of terrorist attacks that month.

 

See also:

FRANCE: apparel association opens China office

FRANCE: clothing sales continue to weaken

FRANCE: July apparel sales dipped marginally

 

SPAIN: consumer confidence nears historic high

 

ACCORDING to the national ICC index, consumer confidence in Spain rose by 4.8 points in November against October 2015 to reach 104.6 points, nearing the historic high of 106.1 points recorded in September that year. The rise was attributed to expectations of rising employment, to economic prospects in general and to greater household confidence.

Selmark

Selmark

The higher confidence can be expected to boost consumption of intimate apparel during the remaining weeks of 2015 and into 2016.

 

See also:

SPAIN: clothing sales continue to increase

SPAIN: retail investment rising strongly

SPAIN: apparel consumption rose in first half

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 SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

WILLY HERMANN: honoured by Interfilière

 

LEADING European fabric knitter and specialist in Superfine® qualities, Willy Hermann was named 2016 Designer of the Year in the lingerie category by the Interfilière salon in Paris. The official presentation of the award will take place during the next edition of the salon from 23 to 25 January 2016, where the company will be showing its collection of some 1’500 fabric designs. These feature a remarkably smooth and regular surface, with stitches invisible to the naked eye.

Superfine® by Willy Hermann

Superfine® by Willy Hermann

While all knitters can buy superfine gauge machines, Willy Hermann says that it has solved all of the many problems that can be met when finishing superfine fabrics.

 

See also:

WILLY HERMANN: Superfine® now eco-certified

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 THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

QUIKSILVER: expansion in Brazil maintained

 

DESPITE worsening economic conditions in Brazil, Australian surfwear brand Quiksilver continues to expand its retail operations there. A further two franchised stores are opening in Rio de Janeiro at the end of November and beginning of December. The company said that other franchised stores are to open in Brazil in the first half of 2016 and the search for other new franchisees continues.

Quiksilver

Quiksilver

With its highly developed beach culture, Brazil should prove a major market for the brand.

 

See also:

QUIKSILVER: rival bids made to finance restructuring

QUIKSILVER: surfwear brand files for Chapter 11

 

PAS GROUP: Jets swimwear business acquired

 

MAJOR Australian clothing company PAS Group acquired for an undisclosed amount the local swimwear brand Jets, which had recently diversified into activewear. The founder in 2001 of the swimwear label, designer Jessika Allen, will remain as design director for at least 18 months before assuming a consulting role. PAS Group CEO Eric Morris said that Jets would provide a platform for growth in the rapidly expanding Australian activewear market. Expansion plans include development of retailing activities as well as broader international distribution.

Jets

Jets

As a leading apparel company in its market, PAS Group will have access to the means of developing significantly its new swimwear label.

 

LOVABLE ITALY: retail expansion continues

 

WITH 130 stores in Italy, the local Lovable brand continues to expand its retail operations. Since October 2015, the brand has opened two new stores, in Capo D’Orlando and Bolzano, with a third about to open in Bologna on December 3. In addition to women’s lingerie, the stores propose a large assortment of sleepwear, tights and accessories for men as well as women. For the current season, the Tonic Lift bra, which provides skin care, is offered in a more feminine version with an extra flat lace surface that makes the cups invisible under a garment. It is now available in black, ivory and grey.

Lovable Italy

Lovable Italy

The skin care performance provided by the Tonic Lift bra could attract many new users if adequately promoted.

 

GOSSARD: US sales campaign intensified

 

FOLLOWING the positive feedback produced by a launch event staged in New York during the summer of 2015, British lingerie brand Gossard appointed Easton International to grow its sales throughout North America. Gossard General Manager Elise Recour commented: “We’re excited about working with Easton and the creative ideas they have to promote the Gossard brand across America. We will be particularly focused on our best-selling Glossies, Gypsy and Superboost Lace ranges to begin with as they are a core offer and represent a new and unique product point within the US market.”

Gossard

Gossard

Easton International represents an impressive array of major apparel labels and the new partnership should allow Gossard to make significant impact on its new market.

 

See also :

COURTAULDS : brands plan to expand abroad

 

McALSON: new website to boost US sales

 

BELGIAN luxury men’s underwear brand McAlson said that the launch of a new website in the US and partnerships with local US stores showed its determination to redefine the American underwear market. The label has developed an innovative garment that combines a soft brief with a boxer short retailing at USD 45. The boxer features up to 90 innovative new print designs each season. The brand’s founder and CEO Pierre Deren commented: “After establishing the McAlson brand in Europe and perfecting our boxer for almost two decades, we are now convinced that the time has come to share our creations with the American public. We encourage men all over the country to treat themselves to a McAlson and have them experience a truly comfortable boxer.”

McAlson

McAlson

The soft brief, combined with interesting print designs for the boxer, could help the brand to win an adequate share of the US market for men’s luxury underwear.

 

AURA LINGERIE: diversifies into branded business

 

BRITISH private label manufacturer Aura Lingerie announced its entry into the branded business with the launch of the Beija Flor collection. This is to be distributed through a dedicated website and wholesaled to lingerie retailers. The new collection consists of nine ranges, each with three bra and four panties styles. Bras will wholesale at GBP 12 in sizes ranging from AA to G cup while bottoms will wholesale at GBP 6.

Beija Flor by Aura Lingerie

Beija Flor by Aura Lingerie

Potential wholesale customers should be aware of the competition represented by the proposed e-commerce platform. They will also want to know how they will be compensated for possible sales lost to the online store.

 

See also:

ANITA : US website starts selling to consumers

 

AUBADE: capsule planned with Paris couturier

FRENCH lingerie label Aubade, which is operated by Calida of Switzerland, announced that it will propose in 2016 a capsule collection created by Christian Lacroix. This will consist of two lines, each featuring nine designs including four bras and three bottoms. The first, labelled Princesse Impériale, is to be available in July, while the second, Gardenia, is to be presented in October. The first will be expressed in pastel shades including almond green and fuchsia while the second will be marked by black and pink shades. Both will feature the traditional lace designs favoured by the designer.

Aubade

Aubade

The joint appeal of the label and of the haute couture designer promises to evoke the interest of many consumers who are not regular buyers of the lingerie brand.

 

See also :

AUBADE: retail store network expanded further

AUBADE: product range being broadened

CALIDA: hurt by stronger Swiss Franc

 

AMANTE: first Indian retail store to be opened

 

TO COMPLEMENT the first retail store dedicated to its Amante lingerie collection that was opened in Sri Lanka two years ago, MAS Holdings is preparing to open on 11 December 2015 its first Amante store in India. This will be located in a Thane shopping mall. Since its launch in 2007, Amante has opened some 1’000 retail accounts throughout the country to sell a collection specially designed to suit the figure and structure of Indian women.

Amante

Amante

Representing the first foray of MAS Holdings in the field of branded lingerie, the Amante brand has made considerable progress since its original launch.

 

See also :

AMANTE : franchise deal opens Pakistan market

MAS HOLDINGS : Amante brand expands into retail

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 DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

CORTEFIEL: strong growth reported in Russia

  

SPANISH distribution group Cortefiel, which operates the Women’Secret chain among others, said that its lingerie business had suffered much less than its outerwear chains from the difficult conditions of recent years. Nevertheless, group CEO Berta Escudero said that consolidated sales in all markets had risen, particularly in Russia where gains of over 30 per cent have been recorded. She added that expansion plans, which had focused on the Middle East, the Balkans and Russia in recent years, would be targeted in the future at new markets in Africa and Latin America. The group’s major brands, including Women’Secret, are now present in 83 countries.

Women'Secret

Women’Secret

While discounts and promotions are planned to boost sales of the group’s outerwear chains, no special incentives are planned for innerwear, which is deemed to be performing very adequately.

 

See also:

CORTEFIEL: move back into profit predicted for 2016

CORTEFIEL: part owner considers exit, and more

WOMEN’SECRET: named star performer of Cortefiel

 

MARKS & SPENCER: tops UK loyalty index

 

BRITISH retail giant Marks & Spencer, which is also the country’s market leader for lingerie sales, won top place in a survey of UK consumer loyalty. Conducted by apparel fit preference specialist Fits.me., the survey of 2’000 UK adults found that Marks & Spencer received 12 per cent of all mentions in a free vote, ahead of Next (9.6 per cent) and Primark (5.9 per cent). When asked which factors would most likely improve their loyalty to a retailer, 29 per cent of shoppers answered : “it stocks clothes that fit my needs and preferences”, which was the single largest response. The second most popular driver for loyalty was : “it has consistently better quality products for the price than others”, with just over one in five shoppers agreeing.

Marks & Spencer

Marks & Spencer

The chain’s continuing popularity through several successive generations of consumers is the most impressive of its many achievements.

 

See also:

MARKS & SPENCER: Indian growth focuses on lingerie

MARKS & SPENCER: premium label boosts sales

MARKS & SPENCER: UK top 20 brand ranking lost

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities                                      

 

THOMAS OBENDRAUF: joins Lenzing as CFO

 

CELLULOSE fibre specialist Lenzing announced the appointment of Thomas Obendrauf as CFO for three years as from 1 March 2016. A graduate in economics from Vienna University of Economics, Obendrauf also holds an MBA from Chicago University. He comes to Lenzing from a major Austrian automobile distributor where he was CFO. For the preceding 12 years he had also been CFO of an electronics equipment company.

Thomas Obendrauf

Thomas Obendrauf

JOELLE PELLEGRIN: named President of VF Brands

 

FOLLOWING its acquisition of VF Brands, investment fund Perceva announced the appointment of Joëlle Pellegrin as President of the lingerie business. Ms Pellegrin was formerly General Manager Europe of luxury lingerie label La Perla. Earlier, she had held executive posts with Timberland, Marithé & François Girbaud, Nike France and Groupe Printemps.

Joëlle Pellegrin

Joëlle Pellegrin

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

PREMIERE VISION: to partner with Ifm on research

 

FASHION fabrics trade show Première Vision is to partner with the Institut français de la mode (Ifm) to create a chair for The Economics of Creative Materials for Fashion. Research is to be focused on the establishment of an international economic indicator for textiles and leather for creative fashions, the analysis of short-terms developments in the industry and the oversight of industry-specific studies.

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The new chair promises to provide a broad range of economic data that is sure to prove of considerable value for all sectors of the fashion industry, including intimate apparel.

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

BURNING ISSUE: smartphone sets man’s pants on fire

 

A MAN in Atlanta, USA, had to strip down to his underpants in a DIY superstore car park when his smartphone caught fire. He told the local radio station that he was humiliated when he was forced to remove his trousers to avoid being burned.

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The “smart” in smartphone was intended to imply that the device could do clever things, not that it inflicted a burning pain on the user.

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