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Full text issue week 51-2015

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 51-2015           

Summary of news published in Week 50-2015

 

jpa4Sibil220ONE OF the topics touched upon this week is odour control, which is a functional characteristic that merits some thought on the part of all intimate apparel marketing managers. This is a tricky subject because many consumers who could benefit from odour prevention finishes are unaware of their need while those that do not require the function could be reluctant to purchase a garment that boasts of providing it. In the final analysis, brands are left with two options. The first is to ignore odour control altogether, trusting that potential buyers will attach no importance to that function whatever their real needs. The second is to apply odour control capability to the complete collection and to cite this function among other positive aspects of the range, without giving it undue weight. Either seems preferable to citing odour control as a major selling proposition, except for functional underwear for which it is obviously a very desirable function.

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

DISPOSABLES: new report analyses world market

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

PIAVE MAITEX: highlights of S/S 2017 unveiled

TANATEX: to market odour control technology

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

TRIUMPH: signals end of production in Europe

LA PERLA: new flagship store opened in Hong Kong

BARBARA: first retail store opened

RUSH PRAIA: new collection is biodegradable

CURVY KATE: to supply N. American market direct

MAISONLEJABY: new brand positioning unveiled

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

HUNKEMOELLER: two European retail awards won

ANN SUMMERS: fiscal 2014/15 marks return to profit

AERIE: strong sales prompt strategy review

ESPRIT: return to Canadian market planned

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

FABIAN ENGSTER: to join Calida as head of wholesale

MARTIN SIEGENTHALER: heads for Jockey International

MARTINA BROWN: takes helm of Aubade

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EXHIBITIONS– what to see and where to trade

 

MAREDAMARE: date of ninth edition announced

AVANPRINT: new salon focuses on digital printing

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

DISCRIMINATION: man barred from lingerie show

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

DISPOSABLES: new report analyses world market

 

UNDER the title Global Disposable Underwear Market 2015, a new report prepared by QY Market Research covers all aspects of the disposables market worldwide and provides growth estimates for the coming years. It notes that the disposable underwear industry is undergoing currently the slowest growth phase in the past two decades and cites opportunities for the market to grow in the coming years. The report also analyses the strengths and weaknesses of key players and provides growth estimates for them.

Onederwear

Onederwear

Once feared as a genuine threat to the established adult intimate apparel sector, disposables have made little significant impact on the industry’s performance. This could be because, despite major technical advances, disposables continue to be viewed by consumers as an option to be used only as a last resort in exceptional circumstances.

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

PIAVE MAITEX: highlights of S/S 2017 unveiled

 

A MAJOR Italian source of intimate apparel and swimwear fabrics, Piave Maitex, unveiled highlights of the S/S 2017 fabric collection that it will present at the Paris Interfilière salon from 23 to 25 January 2016. Click here to access text and images describing the new collection.

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The collection of this supplier is much appreciated not only for its innovative flair, in both aesthetic and technical terms, but also for its variety, which allows it to meet virtually all end uses in the bodywear sector.

 

See also:

PIAVE MAITEX: highlights of new collection unveiled

PIAVE MAITEX at MarediModa

 

TANATEX: to market odour control technology

 

TO MARKET in the EMEA region the odour control technology it has developed and labelled Lava, US-based Sciessent has signed a partnership agreement with Tanatex Chemicals in the Netherlands, giving it exclusive distribution rights in the territory. Harnessing the power of zeolites, a mineral derived from volcanic ash, Lava captures all odours, including that of sweat-soaked items of bodywear. It is non-toxic, wash-fast and durable for the life of the garment to which it has been applied.

Lava by Sciessent

Lava by Sciessent

The product should prove of interest for manufacturers of bodywear and particularly for functional underwear.

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 THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

TRIUMPH: signals end of production in Europe

 

WITH the announced closure of its production unit in Portugal, multinational lingerie brand Triumph International signalled the end of production in Europe in its own factories. A buyer for the Portuguese plant is being sought but if it cannot be sold in 2016, the plant is to be closed down. In the future, all Triumph garments are to be produced in India. Triumph is active in 120 countries and serves 40’000 wholesale customers worldwide in addition to its own 2000 retail stores. The company, which is based in Switzerland, generated sales of CHF 1.44bn in 2014.

Triumph International

Triumph International

By concentrating all its production in India, Triumph will help to develop local skills that promise to serve it well in the future.

 

See also :

TRIUMPH : steep rise in online sales reported

TRIUMPH : premium quality of Sloggi briefs launched

TRIUMPH : Austrian closure social plan agreed

 

LA PERLA: new flagship store opened in Hong Kong

 

MARKING the start of a new phase of its expansion in Asia, luxury lingerie brand La Perla opened a new flagship store in Hong Kong. The four storey store is located on prestigious Russel Street, alongside many other luxury outlets, and the opening was attended by the brand’s owner Silvio Scaglia as well as by the recently appointed CEO John Hooks. In the latter part of 2015, the brand opened two stores on mainland China, in Beijing and Sanya, and now operates 240 retail outlets worldwide.

La Perla

La Perla

As one of, if not the, richest men in italy Silvio Scaglia has the means to grow the brand’s business through an expanding network of dedicated retail stores. But if this strategy is maintained at the expense of the brand’s traditional wholesale business, there is a risk that consumers’ perception of the label’s image could lose some important, though as yet indefinable, element.

 

See also :

LA PERLA : boutique network expands rapidly

LA PERLA : licence of hosiery concern expanded

LA PERLA : diversifies into household textiles

 

BARBARA: first retail store opened

 

FRENCH lingerie brand Barbara, that was acquired in 2010 by Nameyung Vivien Corporation in Korea, opened its first retail store. Located in Lyon, the 30m2 boutique presents the label’s complete collection of lingerie and shapewear, complemented by a selected range of sleepwear and homewear. An interesting touch is provided by the fitting cubicles, with decoration inspired by a bathroom where many women put on their lingerie.

Barbara

Barbara

This could prove to be the first step towards the creation of a retail network by the brand, a now classic response to competition from lingerie chains and to the shrinking number of independent specialists.

 

RUSH PRAIA: new collection is biodegradable

 

BRAZILIAN swimwear brand Rush Praia launched for S/S 2016 its first swimwear collection featuring fabrics knitted with Amni Soul Eco® yarn. This is a biodegradable nylon 6.6 yarn produced by Rhodia in Brazil that is said to decompose rapidly after being dumped in a landfill.

Rush Praia

Rush Praia

Although biodegradable nylon is a step in the right direction, the recycling of all garments made with synthetic fibres would be the most eco-friendly solution.

 

CURVY KATE: to supply N. American market direct

 

BRITISH plus size brand Curvy Kate announced that it has ended its partnership with North American distributor SBC Clothing. As from the start of 2016, the company will itself provide sales and service to customers in the region, with the support of its local agents. Curvy Kate CEO Steve Hudson said that the brand had been well received in the US following its launch there in 2012. He added that with strong management, he saw great potential for growth. The brand will be exhibiting at the CurveNY and CurveNV trade fairs in February 2016 where it will show also its new Scantilly boudoir range.

Curvy Kate

Curvy Kate

North America, and the US in particular, offers very promising prospects for sales of plus size bodywear and, presumably, Curvy Kate has created an adequate sales organisation there.

 

See also :

CURVY KATE : push-up for bottoms added to range

CURVY KATE : erotic plus size collection launched

 

MAISONLEJABY: new brand positioning unveiled

 

FOLLOWING the appointment of Jean d’Arthuys as its new CEO, French lingerie brand MaisonLejaby has adopted a new logo, with the name expressed as a single word, and promotional slogan, modified its segmentation and updated its fashion image. The new Creative Director of the brand, Nathalie Renaud, said that S/S 2016 would be a transitional season and that the full impact of the new approach would be seen with the A/W 2016/17 collection. At that time, the product range would break down into four segments Les Iconiques, consisting of the traditional lines, L’Air du temps, that will reflect the creative skills of the brand, Esprit Couture, providing more luxury and Elixir that continues to fit larger breasts. For S/S 2017, each line will feature a range of beachwear comprising both swimwear and cover-ups.

L'air du temps by MaisonLejaby

L’air du temps by MaisonLejaby

The proposed new segmentation does not appear radically different from the current one but perhaps the styling approach will highlight the differences more effectively than do the titles.

 

See also :

MAISON LEJABY : first retail store opened

LEJABY : success of couture collection reported

MAISON LEJABY : launch of retail operation contemplated

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 DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

HUNKEMOELLER: two European retail awards won

 

DUTCH lingerie chain Hunkemöller was declared the winner of the Webshop Award Europe as well as of the Cross Chanel Award Europe, within the framework of the Retailer of the Year election. This is a pan-European event, which involves consumers in nine countries – Netherlands, Germany, France, Italy, Belgium, Spain, Austria, Switzerland and Luxembourg – voting for their favourite physical and online stores.

Hunkemöller

Hunkemöller

The awards confirm the views of the growing number of consumers who vote for Hunkemöller with their purses and wallets.

 

See also:

HUNKEMOELLER: bidders invited to tweak offer

HUNKEMOELLER: plan for sale confirmed

HUNKEMOELLER: move made into Indian market

 

ANN SUMMERS: fiscal 2014/15 marks return to profit

 

BRITISH erotic lingerie and sex toys chain Ann Summers returned to profit, at GBP 1m, in 2014/15 after a loss of GBP 3.9m in the preceding year. A number of improvements contributed to the turnaround. These included strong performance by 18 refurbished stores, the launch of a swimwear collection, higher online sales due to a new web platform and a wholesale deal with the ASOS e-commerce platform, and the success of the Everyday Sexy TV advertising campaign. In the summer of 2016, the planned airing of a six-part TV series based on the early days of the brand’s development is expected to provide a further considerable sales boost.

Ann Summers

Ann Summers

Now that sex and eroticism are no longer taboo subjects, manufacturers and distributors of risqué lingerie and pleasure accessories can look forward to further considerable sales growth.

 

AERIE: strong sales prompt strategy review

 

THE US lingerie chain Aerie, that targets young women and is operated by American Eagle, reported sales up by 17 per cent year on year for the first nine months of 2015. As a result, former plans to close some Aerie stores have been abandoned and new openings are being planned. In 2016, around 10 standalone stores are expected to open, with the likelihood of further expansion later. American Eagle CEO Jay Schottenstein commented: “We’re just beginning to see the true potential for Aerie. Based on the strong performance of our new store formats, we are planning to accelerate store unit growth in 2016. With further success we expect to ramp up beyond that. Needless to say, we think the future for Aerie is exceptionally bright. I’ll reiterate our goal of doubling the business over the next few years. These investments will put us on the right track to achieve that.”

Aerie

Aerie

The promise of the Aerie concept could well produce an impressive volume of sales, providing that the styling, quality and price continue to prove right for target customers.

 

See also :

AMERICAN EAGLE : Aerie strategy reviewed

AERIE : partnership with bra start-up initiated

AMERICAN EAGLE : culling of Aerie stores continues

 

ESPRIT: return to Canadian market planned

 

LEISUREWEAR chain Esprit, that also has a strong presence in the bodywear sector, announced that it would return to the Canadian market in 2016. The chain pulled out of North America, where it was then operating at a loss, in 2011. It is making its Canadian comeback in partnership with Montreal-based Freemark Apparel Brands but no locations for the proposed standalone stores have been named as yet. Esprit General Manager for EMEA Dieter Messner said in a press release: “With the North American continent being the birthplace of our brand, we are convinced that we can revive the Canadian consumer’s strong relationship with Esprit as it has been missed in the marketplace for several years.”

Esprit

Esprit

Time will tell whether Canadian consumers who say they have missed the brand support their statement by purchasing Esprit merchandise.

 

See also:

ESPRIT: flagging sales caused loss in 2014/15

ESPRIT: franchisees given share in online sales

ESPRIT: sales slump continues

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 PEOPLE – corporate personalities                                      

 

FABIAN ENGSTER: to join Calida as head of wholesale

 

CURRENTLY head of retail with German sleepwear specialist Gerhard Rösch, Fabian Engster is to join Swiss underwear and sleepwear concern Calida as head of wholesale. The appointment is to be effective in March 2016.

Fabian Engster

Fabian Engster

MARTIN SIEGENTHALER: heads for Jockey International

 

KEY ACCOUNTS of Jockey International in Germany are to be managed by Martin Siegenthaler as from the start of 2016. For the past six years, Siegenthaler held a similar position with Swiss bodywear brand Calida.

Martin Siegenthaler

Martin Siegenthaler

MARTINA BROWN: takes helm of Aubade

 

THE FORMER head of international marketing of Wolford, Martina Brown was appointed CEO of French lingerie brand Aubade. Ms Brown, who holds an MBA from Europacollege, had earlier managed international marketing for Falke.

Martina Brown

Martina Brown

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

MAREDAMARE: date of ninth edition announced

 

LEADING Italian swimwear salon Maredamare announced that its 2016 edition will be staged on July 23 to 25. As usual, the event will take place at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. The President of the salon, Alessandro Legnaioli, commented: “Next edition is going to be featured by big news which we have been working on over the last few months and which, once for all, is going to confirm the new fair strength acting as a very incubator of innovation and advanced services for both visitors and end consumers. This is the reason why we believe that a cutting-edge concept of trade fair, which keeps open throughout the year thanks to both the Digital format and the scheduled events, is going to pay back and act as a revolutionary concept within the framework of the domestic fair system. Our aim consists in educating the end consumer to identify the quality product by fully involving retailers as well”.

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As one of the major European sources for beachwear products, Italy should host a particularly important swimwear trade fair. Given a few more successful editions, Maredamare could well become such an event.

 

See also:

MARE D’AMARE: attendance rises by 3 per cent

MARE D’AMARE: around 250 brands to exhibit

 

AVANPRINT: new salon focuses on digital printing

 

THE FIRST edition of a salon devoted to all aspects of the textile digital printing technology is to be staged in Paris from 15 to 18 February 2016, alongside the Texworld and Apparel Sourcing salons in the Le Bourget exhibition centre. Organized by Messe Frankfurt France under the title Avanprint, the salon aims to cover the creative as well as the technical aspects of the technology. It will also feature a demonstration area, titled The Digital Lab, where visitors can assess at first hand the potential of digital printing for their business.

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The importance of prints for lingerie as well as swimwear, together with the exceptional flexibility of the digital technology, suggest that the salon merits the attention of bodywear companies’ managements.

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

DISCRIMINATION: man barred from lingerie show

 

AFTER receiving an invitation for two, including his girlfriend, to a lingerie catwalk show staged by a shop in Austria, a man was refused admittance when he arrived alone due to the lady’s inability to attend. He then filed a lawsuit for gender discrimination.

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The shop’s mistake has nothing to do with gender discrimination; it was for not recognising that the man was likely to spend much more on a gift lingerie set than his girlfriend would have spent for her own use.

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