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Full text week 36-2015

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 36-2015

Summary of news published since Week 31-2015

 

jpa4Sibil220THE RECYCLING partnership between Aquafil and Speedo in the US that is reported here this week reflects the steadily increasing benefits to be derived from environmental initiatives by intimate apparel brands and their suppliers. Although their contribution to the participants’ bottom line in negligible, or non-existent, the consumer goodwill that they generate could translate into substantial extra sales. Unfortunately, very few brands achieve a volume of production that justifies the expense of setting up a collection for cutting room waste by a fibre processor. Nor can the collection of post-consumer garments for recycling be organized without the collaboration of retailers, who have little to gain from such schemes at this time. Nevertheless, we can imagine several solutions to the problems of post-production and post-consumer collection. Brands and fibre processors that implement any such solutions could reap substantial benefits from the resulting competitive advantage.

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

STYLING: Mode City Lingerie trends analysed

LINGERIE: review predicts modest global growth

SWIMWEAR: global market trends analysed

UK: lingerie dominates e-commerce sales

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

LENZING: higher first half sales boosted EBIT

DOGI: first half sales rose strongly

FULGAR: new look given to Emana yarn promotion

ASAHI KASEI: special yarns to be shown at PV

AQUAFIL: partners with Speedo for recycling

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

                                                                                                                       

EMMEBIESSE: more images of new collection released

CALIDA: hurt by stronger Swiss Franc

I.D. SARRIERI: retail store concept tested in Paris

HANESBRANDS: Q2 confirms strength of growth

TRIUMPH: premium quality of Sloggi briefs launched

ALE BY ALESSANDRA: new market opened

BELIZA: enters Chinese market with local partner

WOLFORD: finer qualities added to tights range

NUDZ : crowdfunding success confirms trend

DE WINTER: to operate Elle MacPherson brand

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 DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

                                                           

BOUX AVENUE: Oxford Street flagship store to open   

SOLENDRO: e-commerce expands internationally

ZIVAME: new funding is to boost private label

AMERICAN APPAREL: financial situation gets worse

JOURNELLE : private label collection launched

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

ALAIN PROST: resigns as CEO of Maison Lejaby

BERTA ESCUDERO: takes helm of Cortefiel

KEVIN CAMPBELL: named CTO of Alvanon

JO JENKINS: given broader role at M&S

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

IFL SHANGHAI: workshop programme expanded

GALLERIA INTIMA: 4th edition promotes India

DESSOUS WALLAU: visitors express satisfaction

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 FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

PAN(ties)TONE: pervert files by colour

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

STYLING: Mode City lingerie trends analysed

 

UNDER the sub-heading Eye-Catching Details the recent report by bodyfashion consultancy Concepts Paris on the recent edition of the Mode City bodywear salon assesses for its subscribers the different styling innovations that characterized the lingerie collections shown there. The report notes that the influence of sport and beach spills over into lingerie, most significantly in the development of bodices and semi-one pieces. It concludes that eye-catching details have a major impact on everyday basics and shapewear, illustrating its findings by seven trend boards and many garment photos showing styling details.

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Because major brands and private labels worldwide subscribe to the consultancy’s services, its recommendations play an important role in the development of collections perceived by retailer and consumers as indicative of seasonal fashion trends. Consequently, these recommendations are of considerable potential value for designers aiming to produce collections that will sell-out most rapidly.

 

LINGERIE: review predicts modest global growth

 

PUBLISHED by Research and Markets, the  2015 edition of the Global Market Review of Lingerie predicts that the world market will grow by 3.8 per cent from 2015 to 2020 to reach a retail value of USD 30.65bn. Unit growth is predicted to show 27m more bras, of which 15m will be sold in Asia, and 77m more panties. The review also finds that the market share of brands is declining in the developed world but expanding in other regions, that sales of private label merchandise are growing everywhere and that the market share of unbranded merchandise is declining in all markets.

Hunkemöller

Hunkemöller

 

The findings of the review explain the steady growth of chains and e-commerce sites that design and source production of their private label merchandise.

 

SWIMWEAR: global market trends analyzed

 

UNDER the title Swimwear and Beachwear Market: Global Industry Analysis and Forecast to 2020, Persistence Market Research published a comprehensive overview of the world beachwear and swimwear scene. The report identifies the major forces that are driving the development of the industry worldwide and confirms that, while major Western markets remain the largest consumers of swimwear, China and other Asian countries are experiencing the fastest growth rate.

 

Maryan Mehlhorn

Maryan Mehlhorn

Within a generation or two, India will also begin to realize its growth potential as regards swimwear consumption.

 

UK: lingerie dominates e-commerce sales

 

THE LOCAL e-tailers’ association IMRG revealed that online sales of lingerie in the UK in the first quarter of 2015 rose by 19 per cent against the same period a year earlier. This was seen as a significant improvement over the first quarter of 2014, when online sales of intimate apparel rose by 16 per cent. The sales surge in Q1 2015 made lingerie the most successful category in the e-commerce sector, which grew by only 7 per cent as a whole during the period.

 

Ultimo

Ultimo

The secure privacy of the home surroundings when trying on lingerie or swimwear is a major element in favour of e-commerce and promises to continue boosting online sales of intimate apparel for many years to come.

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

LENZING: higher first half sales boosted EBIT

 

CURRENCY effects added to slightly higher sales volume and improved product mix caused first half revenue of Lenzing to grow by 6.2 per cent year-on-year, to EUR 955.4m. This helped to boost EBIT by a massive 86.7 per cent, to EUR 60.5m. EBITDA also rose sharply, by 37.7 per cent to EUR 126.5m as the margin rose to 13.2 per cent against 10.2 per cent in the same period a year earlier. Click here for more details of first half results.

 

Lenzing

Lenzing

The stronger results reflect the growing impact of the marketing strategy focused on higher value added specialities and the effectiveness of the cost reduction programme launched last year.

 

DOGI: first half sales rose strongly

 

BODYWEAR fabric knitter Dogi declared first half sales up by 28.6 per cent to EUR 22m, largely as a result of the strong performance of its EFA subsidiary in the US as sales in Spain slipped to EUR 6m, marking a slight setback against the same period in 2014. The higher consolidated sales allowed the company to reduce its loss to EUR 1.1m against EUR 2.4m a year earlier. At the same time, the company sought official approval for a reduction of its Spanish workforce affecting 35 people with the aim of improving its competitiveness and of raising its EBITDA.

 

Elastic Fabrics of America (EFA)

Elastic Fabrics of America (EFA)

The strong performance of EFA facilitates the implementation of measures intended to allow the Spanish operation to resume its leading role as a supplier of bodywear fabrics.

 

FULGAR: new look given to Emana yarn promotion

 

THE EUROPEAN distributor of Emana high-tech functional yarns, Fulgar, announced a restyled image for the yarn, with a totally new way of presenting the revolutionary technology. The new image features a totally upgraded look in terms of contents as well as style, applying to logo, claims, images labels and brochures. Consequently, users of the yarn, once they have been certified, will derive greater benefits from the promotional opportunities offered by Fulgar in terms of co-branding and support.

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Fulgar

Over the years, Fulgar has evolved from being a leading coverer of stretch yarns to a major source of functional and specialized yarns. The new look given to the image of Emana yarns marks a further stage in its development.

 

ASAHI KASEI: special yarns to be shown at PV

 

FOLLOWING its strengthened presence at the Paris Interfilière salon in early July, Asahi Kasei announced that it will be presenting its Roica elastane yarns and Cupro cellulosic yarns, with the emphasis on the second, at the Première Vision Paris salon in September. New Cupro yarns, to be shown on Stand R91 in Hall 5, include Cupro FF, a micro-fine quality, Cupro DF, an opaque matte filament yarn that offers UV protection and a new staple spun version of Cupro that is specially recommended for underwear applications. To support its new development programme, and the growing demand for Cupro, the company announced a new investment in production capacity, which is being raised by 10 per cent to 16’500 tons a year. This investment complements the 40 per cent capacity expansion that is being made this year at the Roica plant in Thailand.

Roica by Asahi Kasei

Roica by Asahi Kasei

 

The enhanced promotion of the company’s fibres and yarns reflects a broadened product range that is of greater potential value to producers of bodywear fabrics.

 

AQUAFIL: partners with Speedo for recycling

 

ITALIAN nylon yarn producer Aquafil partnered with swimwear label Speedo in the US to launch the first fabric recovery programme to supply fibre for recycling. Waste fabric from Speedo production will be shipped back to Aquafil where the nylon fibre will be separated from blends and recycled into Econyl yarn that will be used again to produce PowefFlex Eco swimwear fabric.

 

Speedo

Speedo

Today, the project serves as an example of how the swimwear sector can become sustainable but, in time, it will become current practice for all yarn producers and their direct and secondary customers.

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

EMMEBIESSE: more images of new collection released

 

ITALIAN terry fabrics specialist Emmebiesse, that also proposes made-up terrywear garments under the Luna di Giorno label and homewear garments labelled Caterina D, unveiled additions to the S/S 2016 collection it launched earlier this summer. Click here to see the presentation of the enlarged collection.

Luna di Giorno by Emmebiesse

Luna di Giorno by Emmebiesse

While the terry fabric range could be of interest to manufacturers of homewear, the finished garments merit the attention of bodywear distributors aiming to diversify their assortment.

 

CALIDA: hurt by stronger Swiss Franc

 

LARGELY as a result of the much stronger CHF, first half consolidated sales of Calida slumped by 14.8 per cent to CHF 168.1m, causing net earnings to collapse by 90 per cent to CHF 0.7m. At the same time, as a result of sagging consumption in France, sales of lingerie brand Aubade continued to weaken, by 2 per cent to EUR 26.4m. The second half is expected to yield similar results, confirming company predictions that 2015 would produce solid results, but markedly below those of 2014.

Calida

Calida

 

The weak performance of Aubade, together with the disappointing results of the Lafuma business acquired later, add to the difficulties posed by the strong CHF.

 

I.D. SARRIERI: retail store concept tested in Paris 

 

LUXURY lingerie brand I.D. Sarrieri, created in Switzerland by Romanian designer Iulia Dobrin in 1992, opened a store in Paris to test its new retail distribution concept. Formerly, it was distributed only through multi-brand retailers, department stores and online stores. The brand is now seeking retail premises in London and other European capitals while it hopes to open stores in UAE soon following an agreement with a local partner.

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The expansion into retail distribution promises to raise the extent to which the brand benefits from growing demand for luxury bodywear.

 

HANESBRANDS: Q2 confirms strength of growth

 

MULTINATIONAL bodywear giant HanesBrands reported second quarter results that caused it to re-affirm its guidance for 2015. Quarterly net sales rose by 13 per cent to USD 1.52bn, generating net profit up by 15 per cent to USD 265m. This allowed the company to re-affirm its 2015 guidance for adjusted EPS growth of 13 to 17 per cent. The results are said to be driven by continued acquisition benefit, global supply chain performance and expansion of margin. While innerwear sales slipped by 1 per cent in the quarter, operating profit from that activity rose by 7 per cent.

 

Wonderbra by HanesBrands

Wonderbra by HanesBrands

The steadily improving performance of the business has caused it to be one of the very few textile companies that is being reported upon positively by analysts, which is a noteworthy achievement.       

 

TRIUMPH: premium quality of Sloggi briefs launched

 

UNDER the label Evernew, a premium version of Sloggi briefs is being launched by Triumph International. The new briefs feature Supima quality cotton blended with Lycra Xtra Life and are said to retain their shape, comfort, softness and colour over many wash cycles. They are being introduced into European and Australian stores for A/W 2015/16 and are being endorsed by entertainer Kylie Minogue.

 

Evernew by Sloggi

Evernew by Sloggi

The new premium briefs can be expected to focus greater attention on the full range of Triumph merchandise.

 

ALE BY ALESSANDRA: new market opened

 

BRAZILIAN beachwear brand ále by Alessandra is preparing to grow its sales in the UK. As a first step, it appointed Intimates Lingerie as its agent in the new market. The Brazilian collection is inspired by the life and style of supermodel Alessandra Ambrosio and its new agent already handles the UK sales of such prestigious labels as the Maryan Beachwear Group and Le Mystere among others.

ále by Alessandra

ále by Alessandra

The Brazilian label has already made some progress in the US and, with the support of its new agent, could start in 2016 to generate significant sales volume also in the UK.

 

BELIZA: enters Chinese market with local partner

 

FRENCH luxury swimwear start-up Beliza, that rapidly found retail distributors in Italy, Spain, Switzerland, the US and various Middle East countries, is now about to enter the Chinese market. It signed a distribution agreement in China with KNG international Trading Co. Ltd, which specializes in the management, promotion and distribution of premium brands in that country. The agreement covers the positioning of the French brand in China, with an appropriate strategic concept, and its development through partners and the opening of dedicated retail stores and concessions. It also covers the promotion of the label in the increasingly important Chinese e-commerce sector.

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In China, as in Europe, the evolution of the market favours premium labels and luxury brands of swimwear, lingerie and underwear.

 

WOLFORD: finer qualities added to tights range

 

LUXURY legwear and lingerie label Wolford announced a new version of the Pure 50 tights range that features almost-invisible seams and a wider waistband for greater comfort. Labelled Pure 10, the new 10-denier tights are said to be softer than silkand will arrive in stores in November. Because of the almost invisible seams, Pure 10 tights appear particularly smooth and are barely visible even under tight garments.

 

Wolford Pure 10

Wolford Pure 10

The retail launch in November means that the new tights will benefit from the Christmas shopping period, when they are likely to win the maximum possible volume of sales from competing brands.

 

NUDZ : crowdfunding success confirms trend

 

CREATED to provide lingerie for women of all skin tones, US start-up Nudz raised USD 31’376 from 108 supporters through a Kickstarter crowdfunding campaign. Labelled The New Nudes™, the company’s range of everyday bras and panties is conceived to match the full range of consumers’ skin colour. Nudz CEO and founder Sheila Donaldson commented: “I am delighted that the market has responded so positively to Nudz. The feedback we’ve received from our backers and this initial raise better positions us to handle larger manufacturing quantities and further validates the market need.”

 

Nudz

Nudz

First exploited two years ago by British retailer Marks & Spencer, the concept of differentiated skin toned lingerie has since been adopted by several brands, which confirms< its validity.

 

DE WINTER: to operate Elle MacPherson brand

 

AS PREDICTED when her partnership with Bendon was terminated at the end of 2014, actress and model Elle MacPherson entered into a new agreement with Simon de Winter Group that will relaunch a new collection under her label. When it was operated by Bendon, the label was distributed by major department store groups in North America, UK and Australia as well as by some 500 independents around the world.

Elle McPherson

Elle McPherson

 

Although the new licensee has less experience of international marketing than had Bendon, the strength of the Elle Macpherson brand promises to make up for much of that deficiency. Consequently, the label is likely to continue providing strong competition for brands in the same price bracket.

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels 

                                                              

BOUX AVENUE: Oxford Street flagship store to open           

 

A FLAGSHIP store that will be the most central of the London locations occupied by the British chain, Boux Avenue is to open in Oxford Street, London’s major shopping street, later this year. Owner Theo Paphitis, who has an exceptional track record in retailing, commented: “I feel very proud that we are in a position to be able to bring Boux Avenue to one of the most prestigious high streets in the world. Taking our place in the fashion capital on Oxford Street will amplify our position in the market, as well as further cement our status as the ultimate lingerie destination. It’s a real milestone especially for such a young brand but really highlights how far the brand has come in such a short period of time.” Launched in 2011, the chain now has over 25 stores in the UK as well as franchised stores in 14 countries.

 

Boux Avenue

Boux Avenue

The opening of a flagship store in a strategically important London location could provide a significant boost to the chain’s international franchising efforts.

 

SOLENDRO: e-commerce expands internationally

 

FRENCH online store Solendro, that distributes men’s underwear and sleepwear, raised EUR 1m late last year to finance its expansion. Now, after having opened a site targeting the UK earlier this year, it plans to serve Germany. The e-commerce, that proposes some 50 brands and over 1’500 models, claims to post the lowest prices on the Internet and launched it first TV advertisement campaign in France earlier this year.

 

Solandro

Solandro

In contrast to other online distributors founded in recent years, the e-commerce sells only articles selected by consumers rather than provide a subscription service. This could prove an advantage in the long run.

 

ZIVAME: new funding is to boost private label

 

ONE OF the leading online stores in India, Zivame, is reported by the local press to be raising the equivalent of USD 40m from the Malaysian sovereign wealth fund as well as from a Mumbai investment firm. The cash is intended to finance the expansion of the private label collection, discounting and marketing. Late in 2014, the e-tailer raised USD 5m from existing venture capital investors. Currently, online sales of lingerie in India are estimated to account for 1 per cent of a total market worth USD 3bn but expected to reach USD 5bn within five years.

 

Penny by Zivame

Penny by Zivame

The market share of e-commerce is expected to increase at an even faster rate than that of bodywear consumption, which promises considerable growth for Zivame as well as for its rivals.

 

AMERICAN APPAREL: financial situation gets worse

 

SECOND quarter sales of American Apparel slumped by 17 per cent to USD 134m, causing the loss for the period to rise to USD 19m, against USD 16m a year earlier. The chain warned that it could well lack the liquidity to meet its obligations at some time during the coming 12 months. It also failed to mett the deadline for reporting its financial position to the SEC. It added that it was seeking new sources of capital and hoped to restructure its debt.

 

American Apparel

American Apparel

In addition to operational problems, the chain is also having to face no less than 20 lawsuits brought by foubder and former CEO Dov Charney following his dismissal late last year on grounds of sexual harassment.

 

JOURNELLE : private label collection launched

 

NEW YORK-based lingerie chain Journelle, currently with three stores in Manhattan and an opening in Chicago being prepared, is about to launch a private label collection. The new collection that comprises some 25 items includes eight bras, boy-shorts, bikinis as well as thongs and is to be marketed as from September 8.

Journelle

Journelle

 

This development is a reminder that even small chains can benefit from having a private label collection, although the selection of a local supplier is recommended.

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

ALAIN PROST: resigns as CEO of Maison Lejaby

 

ALTHOUGH he is retaining his financial interest in Maison Lejaby, Alain Prost announced that he is resigning his functional management responsibilities in the company he helped to salvage after its failure. He is being replaced by Jean d’Arthuis, a TV media executive.

Alain Prost

Alain Prost

 

BERTA ESCUDERO: takes helm of Cortefiel

 

SPANISH distribution group Cortefiel, that operates the Women’Secret lingerie chain among others, announced the appointment of Berta Escudero as its new CEO following the departure of Juan Carlos Escribano. Ms Escudero was formerly responsible for the company’s procurement, systems and organisation.

 

Berta Escudero

Berta Escudero

KEVIN CAMPBELL: named CTO of Alvanon

 

SIZING and fit specialists Alvanon announced the promotion to Chief Technical Officer (CTO) of Kevin Campbell who joined the company as software consultant in 2012 and later became Director of Software Development. Earlier, Campbell had been head of IT Asia Pacific for Mintel International Group.

Kevin Campbell

Kevin Campbell

JO JENKINS: given broader role at M&S

 

RESPONSIBLE for Lingerie and Beauty for UK retail giant Marks & Spencer since 2013, Jo Jenkins was promoted into the expanded role of Director of Womenswear, Lingerie and Beauty following the departure of Frances Russell. Before joining M&S, Ms Jenkins had helmed womenswear for the Next fashion chain.

Jo Jenkins

Jo Jenkins

 

EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

IFL SHANGHAI: workshop programme expanded

 

THE NEXT edition of Interfilière Shanghai, due to take place on 12 and 13 October 2015 in the Shanghai Exhibition Center, will offer visitors a specially designed workshop programme intended for the intimate apparel and swimwear industries. Presentations will cover Trends for Designers and Trends for Sale and Marketing as well as a Brand Building workshop. The event, which featured 11 per cent more exhibitors in 2014, with 275 companies from 16 countries, also attracted 7’300 visitors from 53 countries, of which 24 per cent originated from outside China.

 

IFL Shanghai

IFL Shanghai

The trade fair continues its development as a major venue not only for Chinese visitors but also for professionals from all over the region.

 

GALLERIA INTIMA: 4th edition promotes India

 

TO BE staged in New Delhi on 26 and 27 August 2015, the fourth edition of Indian bodywear production supplies and services salon Galleria Intima will focus on the country’s potential as a provider of production facilities for intimate apparel brands. The show, which is organised by the Intimate Apparel Association of India (IAAI), aims to project a clear image of the advantages the country offers to world brands as a source of production capacity. IAAI CEO Yusuf Dohadwala explained: “India has been a sleeping giant in the category of intimate wear for quite a long time. This is the time to wake the giant out of its slumber and show its true potential to the world. The ‘Make in India’ drive initiated by our honourable Prime Minister is sure to help us in commencing the golden age of the Intimate Wear Industry in the country. The next 5-10 years look very promising.”

Galleria Intima

Galleria Intima

 

As brands faced with fast rising labour costs in China seek alternative sources, the salon shows that India has the supply chains necessary to support its production facilities.

 

DESSOUS WALLAU: visitors express satisfaction

 

GERMAN bodywear salon DESSOUS Wallau that was staged from 15 to 17 August 2015 featured over 250 brands proposing lingerie, underwear, beachwear and homewear. According to the organizer’s survey, around 90 per cent of the 500 trade buyers visiting the show, from Spain, the Czech Republic, Lithuania and Turkey as well as from Germany, had fulfilled their objectives, 98 per cent would recommend the salon and 96 per cent planned to visit the next edition, which is to take place from 13 to 15 February 2016.

 

Dessous Wallau

Dessous Wallau

Although the event attracted some visitors from other countries, it is essentially a regional event. Nevertheless, because the region ranks among the most affluent in Germany, the salon merits the attention of brands planning to boost their exports to that country.

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

PAN(ties)TONE: pervert files by colour

 

CONVICTED for taking up-skirt videos of women in a Singapore housing project, a man was found to have filed the resulting underwear images on his computer on the basis of colours and styles. Sentencing the man to 18 weeks in jail, the judge said that this was not the first such offence he had dealt with and added that it was unlikely to be the last.

 

Hanes

Hanes

Unfortunately, the judge did not reveal the filing criteria used by other offenders. If any had filed images by fabric type and presumed fibre contents, this could have provided valuable data for local underwear manufacturers and distributors.

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