ISSN 1994-2419

Issue Week 8 - 2010

While illogical religious prejudice continues to hold back the development of the women’s bodywear market in the Middle East, consumer research goes on suggesting new marketing approaches that could help to boost sales in less inhibited markets. Meanwhile, the backlash of the difficult trading conditions that prevailed during much of 2009 continues to claim new victims in Europe. But such failures merely temper very slightly the more optimistic mood of most players in the bodywear supply pipeline. New fabrics are being developed, new promotional ploys are being devised and more innovative collections being launched to tempt still somewhat reluctant consumers. Tomorrow’s winners are on the move.

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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Contents BACKGROUND TOPICS

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 SAUDI ARABIA: call for boycott against lingerie salesmen - page 3
 BEHAVIOUR: study of US consumers updated - page 3
 STATISTICS: offbeat aspects of consumer behaviour - page 3
 ITALY: lace makers warn of dangers - page 3

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Contents SUPPLIER DEVELOPMENTS

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 ELASTIC: new range offers comfort around the clock - page 4
 CARVICO: store promotion supports US sales drive - page 4

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Contents THE APPAREL SCENE

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 MAIDENFORM: bra maker gets accolade from Forbes - page 4
 NINA RICCI: swimwear added to designer label collection - page 5
 HUIT: French bodywear concern in administration - page 5
 COLLECTIONS: Felina and Wacoal collections now online - page 5
 RED OR DEAD: expansion made into swimwear sector - page 6
 CACIQUE: cotton T-Shirt bra introduced - page 6
 BALLET LINGERIE: major shareholder comes to rescue - page 7
 SWEET REVENGE: sleepwear collection inspired by the stage - page 7
 PULL IN: retail network continues to expand - page 7

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Contents DISTRIBUTION

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 MACY’S: bodywear deal with Madonna rumoured - page 8
 SWIMSALE.COM: plus-size selection added to assortment - page 8

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Contents PEOPLE

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 TANYA TODD: appointed to manage Esprit’s supply chain - page 8

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Contents GETTING TOGETHER

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 PREMIERE VISION: attendance rises against last year - page 9
 MODA IN: results confirm improvement of business climate - page 9

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Contents FINISHING TOUCH

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 BRIEF SAFE: an alternative to hotel safes - page 9

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BACKGROUND TRENDS – Elements of strategy development

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BECAUSE public protests are illegal in Saudi Arabia, a female academic there used her Facebook page to organise a boycott of lingerie shops employing men to sell underwear to women. The boycott began a week ago, on the eve of a visit to the country by US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton.

It is now nearly four years since Muslim countries in the Middle East began to legislate against the selling of lingerie by men. Although progress has been made in some countries, ultra conservative clerics in Saudi Arabia continue to oppose the employment of women. Consequently the embarrassment of women having to buy intimate wear from men continues to put a brake on the growth of lingerie sales in the region.

JUST published by Research and Markets, the 2010 edition of Consumer Behaviour updates all aspects of consumer behaviour in the US. It is said to be the sole publication that integrates the full spectrum of applied consumer psychology, demographics and purchasing influences with major consumer surveys.

Like all such publications mentioned here, this handbook could prove of value not only to lingerie manufacturers operating in the US but also to their suppliers of fabrics and accessories.

ALMOST every month, one or more survey around the world highlights some hitherto unrecognised aspect of consumer behaviour. Recently, a survey by insurance company Staysure UK focused on what consumers consider most important when travelling. After a tooth brush, which only 2 per cent of people would envisage leaving at home, underwear was deemed the second most important item with which to travel by 95 per cent of people; it was rated ahead of deodorants that could be dispensed with by 91 per cent of travellers.

This suggests that the market for underwear designed specially for travel could be more important than is generally thought.

RESPONDING to an Italian government proposal to provide for some other sectors, including textiles, some form of assistance comparable to that offered to the motor industry, Pino Polli, president of the Tessilivari trade association, wrote an open letter to the Minister for Economic Development. Speaking for the association, that represents mainly makers of laces and trimmings, Polli warned against measures that encourage trade and consumption, as was the case with aid to the motor industry. Those failed to promote domestic production but helped imports, he said. As an alternative, he suggested that easing the burden of social charges and taxation would provide more accurately targeted and more useful support for the industry.

If the easing of taxes and social charges were fully reflected in prices of finished goods, they might have some effect, but it is not certain that they would boost demand significantly.

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SUPPLIER DEVELOPMENTS – Opportunities for manufacturers

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DESCRIBED as "around the clock" fabrics, a new generation of bodywear fabrics has been added to the current collection of Elastic Textiles Europe. Labelled 24, the fabrics provide comfort throughout the day thanks to specific performance benefits. These include breathability, effective moisture control and fast drying, all achieved through yarn-based solutions and thus long lasting. They target mainly women with an active lifestyle whose lingerie has to remain comfortable through the whole day. Elastic Textiles Europe

Assuming the 24 fabrics perform as promised, they can be expected to give the company a valuable competitive advantage.

EUROPE’s largest knitter of warp-knitted swimwear fabrics, Carvico, hopes to benefit from the launch in New York of the new collection of Cyn & Luca, one of its more prestigious customers in the US. The launch, which is due to take place in Macy’s department store on 27 February, will feature a catwalk show with models made up in Carvico fabrics that are said to provide the technology, resistance and charm that characterise the collection. Cyn & Luca + Carvico

If the efforts made by Carvico to publicise its association with the upmarket collection bear fruit, they could win many new customers for the company in the US.

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THE APPAREL SCENE – What or how manufacturers are doing

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INFLUENTIAL US business magazine Forbes published a very complimentary article on Maidenform in a recent issue, pointing out that the bra specialist’s Flexees range had won a 40 per cent share of the US shapewear market. It also notes that the company has zero debt and that its shares sell at 11 times trailing earnings compared to 60 times for Limited Brands that operates the Victoria’s Secret chain. The article also quotes an analyst’s prediction that Maidenform will achieve earnings of USD 1,40 per share this year.

Maidenform

If Maidenform performs as well in its export markets as it has in he US, it will provide ever stronger competition for rivals in many countries.

FOLLOWING the appointment of Lejaby, that also operates the Rasurel swimwear label, as its new bodywear licensee, Nina Ricci is launching a swimwear collection for the first time. The new collection, comprising some 20 articles, as well as cover-ups and a beach towel, will start retailing next month in some 50 outlets as well as in Nina Ricci’s three boutiques in Paris, Dubai and Moscow. Prices range from 140 to 190 Euros.

Nina Ricci

Although it is a late-comer to the designer label swimwear field, the long experience and know-how of its licensee in that sector should allow the new collection to make up quickly for lost time.

ONLY weeks after it announced the launch of its first range of swimwear for men, Huit Diffusion in France went into administration. It has been given six months to restructure its operations and to show it can return to viability. The failure is attributed to flagging demand in 2009 combined with the servicing of debt incurred for the acquisition of the Barbara lingerie business a year ago.

Huit

The acquisition of Barbara could hardly have been made at a worse time. But the Huit A/W 2010/11 collection is said to be selling well, giving the company an opportunity to redress the situation.

SELECTED models from the A/W 2010/11 collections of Felina in Germany and of Wacoal France, can now be viewed on the SIBILintimate portal.

Felina & Wacoal France

The presentations of these wholesale collections also provide direct access to the manufacturers’ web sites.

COMPLEMENTING its existing presence in the hosiery field, lifestyle label Red or Dead has entered into partnership with Voluptuous Ventures in the UK to produce and market a swimwear collection. The new range, which comprises 17 models, is being launched at the Moda trade show in Birmingham this week.

Red or Dead

The licensee is a very young company that does not appear to have special experience of the swimwear sector. But perhaps the Dead or Red brand is strong enough to make the venture viable.

PLUS SIZE specialist Cacique Intimates, whose collection is distributed exclusively through Lane Bryant stores in the US, has launched its Cotton T-Shirt bra that provides a smooth silhouette when worn under lightweight garments. The cotton bra is proposed in six flat colours as well as prints and in a broad range of sizes, from 36C to 46DDD.

Cacique for Lane Bryant

The new product is sure to be appreciated by women who are embarrassed by standard bras that reveal the outline of nipples when worn under summer weight garments. Consequently, the concept merits the attention of all bra manufacturers.

MAJORITY shareholder of the failed Ballet Lingerie concern since 2006, EBI Apparel rescued the company from administration by acquiring the balance of the equity it did not own. Headquarters and personnel of Ballet Lingerie are being relocated in the new owner’s premises in Leeds. Production was maintained after administrators were appointed at the end of January.

Ballet Lingerie

EBI Apparel was itself subject to a management LBO last year and it can only be hoped that its own financial arrangements are secure.

CREATED by Catherine Fritsch, a former pattern maker for professional theatre costume shops, the Sweet Revenge sleepwear collection was launched in the US last month by Mercurious Designs. The show business influence is immediately evident and the models, that are available on wholesale terms as well as from the online shop, bring a subtly innovative approach to sleepwear design.

Sweet Revenge

The range is sufficiently different from current sleepwear collections to merit the attention of manufacturers seeking a possible licensing agreement.

SURFWEAR-inspired men’s underwear label Pull In continues to expand its retail network. The recent opening of two new outlets brings to six the total of its stores in France. It also operates stores in Los Angeles and New York and plans an opening in Hong Kong this year.

Pull In

As its distribution expands, the brand is also diversifying its product range. This now includes men’s swimwear as well as some items of bodywear for women.

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DISTRIBUTION – Who moves what and how

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ACCORDING to a report published by Women’s Wear Daily, singer and actress Madonna is discussing a licensing deal that is expected to lead to a lingerie collection among other fashion ranges. All the ranges are intended for exclusive distribution by the Macy’s department store chain in the US.

Madonna

If the project becomes a reality, the Madonna label is likely to rank very high among successful celebrity brands.

ONLINE retailer Swimsale.com in the US, that claims to have been in business for six decades, has added a range of plus-size swimwear to its offer. Models are selected from various designer and branded collections to provide a wide choice of stylish garments for larger women.

L*Space at Swimsale

In recent years, a growing number of lingerie manufacturers and retailers have focused increasingly on plus-size ranges and the trend is now extending to swimwear.

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PEOPLE – Corporate Personalities

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CURRENTLY responsible for buying women’s wear and men’s wear for the C&A group, Tanya Todd has been engaged by Esprit to manage its buying and its supply chain. She is to take up her new responsibilities on July 1st, taking over from Radoor Sørensen who is leaving for personal reasons.

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GETTING TOGETHER - Markets for goods and ideas

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THE SIX trade shows that constitute the Première Vision Pluriel event staged in Paris earlier this month saw total attendance rise by 6.3 per cent against the comparable event in February 2009. In addition to the fashion fabric show, the Expofil yarn show and the Mod’Amont salon for production accessories are also of potential interest for bodywear manufacturers seeking new products and suppliers.

The reported rise in attendance provides yet another indication that the apparel industry is beginning to recover from the effects of the recession.

ALTHOUGH not quantified, attendance and sampling done at the February 2010 edition of of the Moda In fabrics and accessories salon in Milan are said by the organisers to signal a appreciable improvement of the situation facing the apparel and textile industries. Visitors during the three-day show are said to have represented no less than 12’500 companies.

As for the Paris salons commented upon above, exhibitors at the Milan show include many suppliers to the bodywear industry.

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FINISHING TOUCH – The smile for this week

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INTENDED to disgust and discourage potential thieves, the Brief Safe is proposed by Shomer-Tec as a place to keep valuables when travelling. The hand-painted soiled underpants are made with a secret pouch at the crotch for keeping money, documents and small valuables. When used together with another of the company’s products, a "special ingredient" which provides the appropriately realistic odour, the Brief Safe is said to de-motivate all but the most determined truant.

Brief Safe

It is likely that, after having carefully weighed the factors for and against the use of these products, most mistrustful travellers will continue to use the hotel safe.

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The SIBILintimate newsletter is published by J.P. Adeline, 37 bd Dubouchage, F-06000 Nice. All rights reserved.