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Full text Issue Week 17-2015

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ISSN 1994-2419

 

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Issue Week 17-2015

Summary of news published in Week 16-2014

jpa4Sibil220THIS week’s report on the strength of the premium price lingerie sector in Italy, where the economy has suffered much from austerity measures, results not only from the polarization of demand but also from the search by consumers for affordable feel good factors. While purchases of most luxury goods are intended, to a greater or lesser extent, to impress others, the woman who buys luxury lingerie does so mainly to boost her ego and to enhance her self-esteem. Obviously, this applies to women everywhere and not only in Italy. Yet, many owners of luxury brands continue to highlight seduction and related qualities rather than personal pleasure when promoting their products. The strong growth in demand for erotic lingerie suggests that consumers recognize that seduction and self-esteem are different objectives that can be achieved with different brands. The implications merit the attention of brand owners and of their marketing executives.

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

TRENDS: Interfilière trends for A/W 2016/17 unveiled

ITALY: premium lingerie sector shows strong growth

FRANCE: lingerie sector suffers 2014 setbacks

SWIMWEAR: yet another global survey published

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

LENZING: non-core fibre interests sold

CRAILAR: 2014 EBITDA loss nearly halved

RELIANCE: new Indian PTA plant commissioned

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

ONDA DE MAR: private equity owner seeks exit

PANACHE: larger sizes added to sports bra range

TRIUMPH: sales objective in Spain quantified

VILEBREQUIN: further expansion in retail reported

FRIGO: premium line designed by popular rapper

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DISTRIBUTION: evolution of chains and channels

 

YAMAMAY: new Beach concept launched in Spain

ARVIND: Calvin Klein underwear plans defined

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PEOPLE: corporate personalities

 

ELISE RECOUR: takes helm of two UK brands

SUSANNE STISSEN: appointed to marketing post

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

IFL PARIS: new features to mark 30th anniversary

FILO: date of next edition brought forward

BEACHWEAR: London museum stages retrospective

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

PROTECTION: panty thief finds novel excuse

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

TRENDS: Interfilière trends for A/W 2016/17 unveiled

 

THE PARIS salon for bodywear fabrics and production supplies, Interfilière, revealed its trends proposals for A/W 2016/17. The four trend themes and related colour directions, inspired by pleasure and beauty, are intended to reflect market and consumer needs. Click here to access images and explanatory texts of the proposals.

Trends Interfilière Paris

Trends Interfilière Paris

 

Since the trend proposals are circulated among all exhibitors, they are likely to influence the design directions of all major global players and will thus make an appreciable contribution to the bodywear look of the season.

 

ITALY: premium lingerie sector shows strong growth

 

FINDINGS of a research project completed by Sita Ricerca in collaboration with specialist trade publication Linea Intima show that the premium price lingerie sector in Italy grew by 11.2 per cent in 2014. This compares with the 2.3 per cent sales setback suffered by the Italian bodywear sector as a whole that year. The report also noted that the premium price sector accounted for 16.9 per cent of total bodywear sell out and benefited from the good performance of retail chains, department stores and the e-commerce channels.

 

Parah

Parah

This information provides further evidence of the increasing polarization that characterizes today’s market for intimate apparel.

 

FRANCE: lingerie sector suffers 2014 setbacks

 

INTERVIEWED by newspaper Le Parisien, French textile trade association UIT Director General Emanuelle Butaud-Stubbs said that sales of the French lingerie sector had suffered a EUR 19m decline in 2014, to EUR 780m, largely as a result of a 4.7 per cent decline in domestic demand. Sales of the men’s underwear sector had also declined, by an estimated EUR 8m to EUR 160m as domestic sales slipped by 4.9 per cent and exports were 4.3 per cent lower. Ms Butaud-Stubbs added that the Russo-Ukrainian crisis had had a significant impact on French bodywear exports while the arrival of more low cost lingerie in clothing chains had depressed the value of sales in France.

 

Lise Charmel

Lise Charmel

Although it has slowed, the continued rise of unemployment has an increasingly negative impact on purchasing by consumers.

 

SWIMWEAR: yet another global survey published

 

THE LATEST of several reports relating to swimwear and beachwear to come to our attention was published late last year by Global Industry Analysts. Titled Swimwear and Beachwear – A Global Strategic Report, it covers much the same ground as other reports reviewed here in the past year but appears to go into greater depth. In particular, it provides seven-year market reviews and forecasts to 2020 and it also reviews many more key companies. Click here for more details of report contents.

 

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Eres

The additional information provided by this report could be found to justify its relatively high cost.

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

LENZING: non-core fibre interests sold

 

LEADING fibre specialist Lenzing announced the sale of two non-core interests as part of its strategy to concentrate resources and development on cellulosic fibres. Its wholly owned acrylic fibre subsidiary Dolan GmbH and its 91.1 per cent stake in European Carbon Fiber GmbH were sold to British private equity fund WHEB Partners and its associate Jan Verdenhalven. Both parties agreed to keep the purchase price confidential.

 

Lenzing AG

Lenzing AG

The sale of the two businesses will help Lenzing to minimize the impact of the currently depressed world prices for viscose fibres.

 

CRAILAR: 2014 EBITDA loss nearly halved

 

SALES of modified flax fibre produced by Crailar rose to USD 4.2m in 2014, against USD 0.6m in 2013, and adjusted EBITDA loss was reduced to USD 3.4m from USD 6m in the preceding year. The net loss was also reduced, by USD 1m to USD 14.2m, including a USD 8m impairment charge in connection with the write-down of the value of the company’s South Carolina facility. The write-down reflects the company’s new focus on European production, which involves not only fibre processing in Europe but also expanding the feedstock supply chain there through direct sourcing from farmers. The annual report states that forecast demand for Crailar fibres now exceeds plant capacity and notes that two customers are investigating dedicated facilities and have scheduled validation trials for the second quarter of 2015.

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The new focus on Europe, where flax growing and processing are among the oldest textile traditions, could help the fibre to become more solidly established in a shorter time.

 

RELIANCE: new PTA plant commissioned in India

 

WITH an annual capacity of 1.15m tons, a new PTA plant built with Invista technology was commissioned in India by Reliance Industries. Another PTA plant is being built on the same site and will make the company one of the top five world PTA producers when it starts up. Reliance is already one of the world’s largest producers of polyester yarns.

 

Reliance Industries

Reliance Industries

Although 100 per cent polyester yarn has few applications in the bodywear field, the fibre is of greater significance when blended with cotton.

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

ONDA DE MAR: private equity owner seeks exit

 

COLOMBIAN private equity fund Tribeca, owner of swimwear brand Onda de Mar that was reported here last week to be planning to open its first European store in 2016, is seeking a buyer for the business. Acquired by Tribeca for around USD 3m in 2006, the brand developed considerably its wholesale business in the USA and Europe as well as in Latin America and recently began to open retail stores under its brand in the US and Central America. Its sales rose by 5 per cent in 2014 to reach USD 16m. In 2015, Onda de Mar expects to raise domestic sales by 15 per cent and exports by 19 per cent.

 

Onda de Mar

Onda de Mar

The label seems to have made a good start towards becoming a significant global player and the new owner will have an opportunity to build from strength.

 

PANACHE: larger sizes added to sports bra range

 

BRITISH lingerie brand Panache announced that two new larger sizes, I and J, are being added to its range of sports bras for A/W 2015. The brand’s sports bra, which is said to reduce bounce by 83 per cent, features seam-free moulded inner cups, wide and cushioned shoulder straps and breathable fabric for greater comfort during exercise.

 

Panache Sports

Panache Sports

The larger sizes reflect the demand of plus size British women who practice exercise or sport and a comparable demand for larger sized sports bras could well exist in many other countries.

 

TRIUMPH: sales objective in Spain quantified

 

ACCORDING to Spanish online trade medium Modaes.es, Triumph aims to raise its sales in Spain by 7 per cent in 2015. The multinational label sees Spain as the most promising European market for its products and is planning to double its sales there, currently worth EUR 40m, over the next ten years. Following the closure of its four owned Spanish retail stores in 2014, Triumph now operates 20 mono-brand stores there under a form of franchise agreement and serves over a thousand independent retail stores in the country; it also operates concessions in all the El Corte Inglés department stores. The Sloggi range of panties is also to be re-introduced in Spain, but market positioning and distribution networks are to be different from those adopted by the lingerie business. Later, Triumph International announced the impending closure of a production unit in Austria and the sale of another in Hungary.

Triumph International

The ambitious development objectives for Spain appear to ignore the keener competition from local brands that is being met by Triumph in most major markets.

 

VILEBREQUIN: further expansion in retail reported

 

TO COMPLEMENT its retail store in Rome, luxury swimwear label Vilebrequin opened a store in the Italian capital’s Fiumicino airport. It is preparing to open another airport store in Milan within the next few days and also plans to open a store in Nice airport in time for the high tourist season there. CEO Roland Herlory said that duty-free stores were a promising business for the label since they combined luxury gift opportunities for travellers with the holiday atmosphere associated with airports. He also hinted at a diversionary move to be announced later this year.

 

Vilebrequin

Vilebrequin

Victoria’s Secret was among the first bodywear specialists to exploit airport opportunities since it was with duty-free stores that it began its expansion into Europe. Usually, however, duty-free locations become available only when airports are being re-modelled or expanded.

 

FRIGO: premium line designed by popular rapper

 

THE US underwear brand Frigo, that produces and markets innovative microfibre underwear for men, is preparing to launch a premium line designed by popular rapper Curtis “50 cents” Jackson, who has also invested in the business. Labelled Frigo Crown, the line will be in stores for summer 2015 at prices starting at USD 100 and will also include T-shirts. Frigo founder and CEO Mathias Ingvarsson commented: “50 is a dream partner for Frigo, and we couldn’t be happier that he is designing his own line. He is amazingly creative and his attention to detail is immaculate, which will be transparent in his collection”

 

Frigo

Frigo

50 Cent is one of the world’s best selling rappers and the label could sell as many pieces of underwear as he has sold albums in his career, which is estimated as 30 million.

 

DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

 

YAMAMAY: new Beach concept launched in Spain

 

FOLLOWING the launch of the Yamamay Beach concept with a store in Sardinia, Yamamay opened a second outlet on the Spanish island Ibiza. The new concept places special emphasis on swimwear for men and women but also proposes a selection of basic lingerie. The next opening of a Yamamay Beach store is scheduled around mid-April in Katerini, Greece.

 

Yamamay

Yamamay

The new concept will allow Yamamay to open stores in some resort locations where only high seasonal sales of swimwear make a permanent presence viable.

 

ARVIND: Calvin Klein underwear plans defined

 

AFTER an acquisition last year that made Indian textile concern Arvind a local partner of PVH, the Arvind Brands division announced that it was preparing to open 25 standalone stores selling Calvin Klein Underwear during the coming three years. The ambitious expansion plan was prompted by a forecast annual growth rate of 25-30 per cent for underwear sales in India.

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To maximize sales opportunities for the brand, Arvind will need to complement the physical expansion with an online store for the CKU range.

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

 

ELISE RECOUR: takes helm of two UK brands

 

BRITISH textile concern Courtaulds announced the appointment of Elise Recour as General Manager of its two major bodywear brands: Gossard and Berlei. Ms Recour joined Courtaulds in 2006 and has served the company in Paris and China as well as in London.

 

Elise Recour

Elise Recour

SUSANNE STISSEN: appointed to marketing post

 

LEADING Austrian intimate apparel chain Palmers re-activated the post of Marketing Manager after a break of some six years and selected Susanne Stissen to assume the role with immediate effect. Ms Stissen was formerly a sales executive of independent sales and marketing concerns and had worked earlier for several leading advertising agencies in Austria.

 

Susanne Stissen

Susanne Stissen

 

EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

IFL PARIS: new features to mark 30th anniversary

 

BESIDES a new layout, which allow visitors to the July 2015 editions of both the bodywear-related Paris salons to share a single entry providing a panoramic view of the salons, the coming edition of Interfilière, from 4 to 6 July 2015, will put a special emphasis on activewear and sportswear. The Innovation Forum will focus on functional lingerie for sport, medical applications and cosmetic garments, presenting the latest performance fabrics and other related innovations. A special gala evening is also being organized on Sunday 5 July to celebrate the 30th year of the event.

 

Interfilière Paris

Interfilière Paris

The new layout is expected to tempt more of the Mode City exhibitors to visit the salon for bodywear fabrics and other production supplies while the closer focus on performance fabrics reflects the growing importance of functional underwear and lingerie.

 

FILO: date of next edition brought forward

 

IN RESPONSE to requests by exhibitors, and because of its presence in Shanghai in collaboration with the Milano Unica fabric salon from 13 to 15 October, Italian yarn fair Filo announced new dates for its next edition. The event will now be staged on 30 September and 1 October at the usual venue in the Le Stelline Congress Centre in Milan.

Filo

Filo

 

Though many exhibitors show weaving yarns, there are enough producers of knitting yarns to justify a visit from producers of bodywear fabrics who happen to be in Italy at the end of September.

 

BEACHWEAR: London museum stages retrospective

 

UNDER the title Riviera Style: Resort and Swimwear since 1900, the Fashion and Textile Museum in London will open on 22 May 2015 an exhibition based on the evolution of beachwear in the UK, the French Riviera and Californian resorts over the past 100 years. The display will show how clothing designs, fabrics and people’s attitudes to modesty have changed over the years with a special focus on the social history of holidays. Guest curator and design historian Christine Boydell said in a press statement, “A key feature of the items selected is the importance of material from early examples to produce the perfect fabric that didn’t bag or sag when wet, to more recent technical developments designed to improve fit and increase speed in the water.” The exhibition will run until August 29, 2015.

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The exhibition will provide an interesting reminder of the critical role played by elastane and polyamide fibres in the evolution of swimwear.

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

PROTECTION: panty thief finds novel excuse

 

ARRESTED for stealing panties from neighbours who had put them out to dry on clothing lines, a man in Indonesia claimed that he was seeking protection. He said that a large collection of panties could ward off evil spirits.

 

Hanes

Hanes

Since the man was caught and arrested, his collection of stolen panties could not have been large enough .

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