Home | Others | Full text Issue Week 26-2015

Full text Issue Week 26-2015

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 26-2015

Summary of news published during week 25-2015

 

jpa4Sibil220DIFFERENT comments addressed to us in recent months suggest that some readers believe that the order of presentation of the news items in this newsletter reflects our perception of the relative importance of the news, or of the company. Consequently, we take this opportunity to reaffirm that, with two exceptions, all articles appear under their respective categories in chronological order, that is as they are written in response to incoming information. The first exception is that news items relating to sponsors of the website are always given priority in the Suppliers section. The other, also in the Suppliers section, is that it seems logical to report news of companies in the fibre and yarn sectors before news relating to fabric mills and other suppliers. These two exceptions apart, all reports appear in the order in which they were originally written, with no attempt on our part to indicate the relative importance of the information.  

 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

FRANCE: survey finds women prefer comfort

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

INVISTA: renewed attention paid to swimwear

PIAVE MAITEX: A/W 2016/17 collection unveiled

NYLSTAR: international development promoted

SOLVAY: investment in smart PA fibres planned

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

VFB EUROPE: to be acquired by investment fund

POMM’POIRE: 2015 growth of 50 per cent expected

LENITA & XTG: owners go into receivership

ALBISETTI: wins beachwear licence of couture label

SALINAS: diversifies into fitness wear with Adidas

FLEUR OF ENGLAND: beachwear added to range

HANESBRANDS: past performance recognized

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DISTRIBUTION: evolution of chains and channels

 

BOUX AVENUE: UK expansion maintained

INTIMISSIMI: men’s underwear stores reach Spain

BILLABONG: significance of brand reaffirmed

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PEOPLE: corporate personalities

 

ANDREA CRESPI: to deal with sustainability with SMI

MARCO GALBUSERA: given more scope by Calzedonia

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

 

INTERFILIERE: 280 exhibitors expected in July 2015

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

HARASSMENT: female cop wins colour claim

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BACKGROUND – developments to bear in mind

 

FRANCE: survey finds women prefer comfort

 

ACCORDING to a survey carried out by French lingerie brand Ma P’tite Culotte, 67 per cent of women in France most often wear comfortable or basic lingerie during the week, against 33 per cent who opt for more seductive sets with lace trimming. For a romantic date, however, 50 per cent choose more sexy lingerie, against 41 per cent who choose more casual innerwear while 9 per cent opt for the worst underwear in their wardrobe. Further, 91 per cent of women choose fun styles and bright colours when starting the day in a negative mood. The findings are based on responses to a questionnaire sent to 10’000 women throughout the country plus the brand’s 6’500 Facebook followers.

 

Ma P'tite Culotte

Ma P’tite Culotte

Like the findings of many other surveys, it is hard to know whether they represent the views of all consumers or merely of those who are prepared to spend time completing a questionnaire.

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SUPPLIERS – information from the upstream sector

 

INVISTA: renewed attention paid to swimwear

 

HARKING back to the early days of the fibre, when promotion of Lycra focused mainly on swimwear applications, Invista selected the Gran Canaria Moda Cálida swimwear event to promote Lycra Xtra Life fibre. There, it is supporting the brands using the fibre that participate in the catwalk show. Staged in Las Palma in the Canary isles from 18 to 20 June, the swimwear event features such brands as Dolores Cortés, Gottex, Banana Moon and Agua Bendita among many others, which all use fabrics incorporating Lycra Xtra Life in their creations. Invista has its own space at the event in order to share information on the fibre and related fabrics, stressing the special qualities of the fibre. These include high resistance to chlorine as well as to elements, such as sunlight and heat as well as skin care products, that can quickly damage standard elastane yarns.

 

Dolores Cortes & Banana Moon + Lycra Xtra Life

Dolores Cortes & Banana Moon + Lycra Xtra Life

The effort that has gone into making elastane fibre more resistant to potentially harmful substancesand conditions has given brands more opportunities to earn customer loyalty.

 

PIAVE MAITEX: A/W 2016/17 collection unveiled

 

RANKED among the leading Italian producers of bodywear fabrics, Piave Maitex revealed the highlights of the A/W 2016/17 collection it will present at the July 2015 edition of the Interfilière salon. The range includes a selection of innovative fabric types as well as many new print designs for intimate apparel fabrics. Click here to access the generously illustrated text describing the season’s novelties.

Piave Maitex

Piave Maitex

 

Because it comprises an unusually broad range of fabric types in a wide variety of innovative designs, the collection merits the close attention of all manufacturers of garments worn next to the skin.

 

NYLSTAR: international development promoted

 

SPANISH nylon fibre producer Nylstar said that the opening of a sales subsidiary in New York, to be followed by another in Hong Kong, is part of its plan to support expansion into strategic markets. Trading as Meryl America, the US operation is to be managed by Cecilia Luppi. The company said that 85 per cent of its sales, that reached EUR 65m in 2013, were made in world markets, with the USA and Asia Pacific each accounting for 15 per cent. In Europe, the company collaborated with UK lingerie brand Standard Drawers on the promotion of Meryl Sublime yarns and fabrics to organize a special event at the Interfilière salon. See the 24-piece collection at Interfilière at a Happy Hour on stand F102 from 15.30hrs on July 4 2015.

 

Standard Drawers

Standard Drawers

Although Nylstar is more active than ever on the PR scene, it seems to us that its promotions lack a clear focus. Closer attention to the qualities and functions of the different types of Meryl fibre could well generate additional sales.

 

SOLVAY: investment in smart PA fibres planned

 

THROUGH its Fibras Global Business Unit, French nylon fibre producer Solvay is investing some BRL 50m in the latest texturing equipment and on the modernization of the weaving capacity of its Santo André plant in Brazil. The objective is to double the sales volume of the unit that now generates 20 per cent of its revenues with products launched less than five years ago, a proportion which it wants to raise to 40 per cent by 2018. Recent innovations include Amni Soul Eco, the world’s first biodegradable polyamide fibre, which decomposes quickly when disposed of in a landfill. The company is also preparing to launch Amni Sustainable White, a white yarn that increases productivity and saves water, energy and raw materials.

Solvay

Solvay

 

Both new products promise to reduce significantly the nylon fibre producer’s environmental footprint.

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

 

VFB EUROPE: to be acquired by investment fund

 

FRENCH investment fund Perceva announced the start of exclusive negotiations with Fruit of the Loom for the acquisition of the Vanity Fair Brands Europe business that had begun an extensive brand restructuring operation late in 2013. In addition to a number of former Spanish brands that are now marketed under the Vanity Fair label, the business also includes the Variance and Lou brands in France as well as the BestForm label. The American group is said to have initiated the sale procedure in order to concentrate its attention on the development of its domestic business.

Lou

Lou

 

The split Franco-Hispanic management that resulted from the restructuring implemented last year is one of the problems that will be solved by the acquisition. But a management that is strong on marketing and brand building will be needed to establish solidly the Vanity Fair lingerie label in Europe.

 

POMM’POIRE: 2015 growth of 50 per cent expected

 

LAUNCHED in February 2013 and initially distributed solely through its online store, French lingerie brand Pomm’poire first developed a wholesale operation and is now launching a franchised store chain to complement the around 100 multi-brand specialists that stock the label. Last year, the brand generated sales of EUR 1m and it expects to grow by 50 per cent in 2015. Created jointly by the owners of the Steffy lingerie brand and a consultancy in online distribution, the label takes particular pride in the fact that the rate of returns recorded by its e-commerce does not exceed 5 per cent.

 

Pomm'poire

Pomm’poire

It has not been made clear how the brand plans to avoid the cannibalization of sales by the three channels of distribution it is developing.

 

LENITA & XTG: owners go into receivership

 

LAS PALMAS-based concern Burmen, that owns and operates the swimwear and sportswear brand Lenita & XTG sought protection from its creditors in a local court. In 2013, the company repatriated to Spain its production of swimwear that had been sourced in China for the preceding ten years, a move that called for an investment of EUR 0.35m. The company also operates eight retail stores.

 

Lenita & XTG

Lenita & XTG

In theory, the Canaries, which offer a longer bathing season than mainland Spain, should have proved a more profitable base for a swimwear business.

 

ALBISETTI: wins beachwear licence of couture label

 

ITALIAN contract manufacturer Albisetti International announced that it has signed a licence contract with the French couture concern to cover collections of beachwear and activewear for men and women under the Carven label. The first collections are expected to be available for consumers for S/S 2016. This is said to be the first licence secured by Albisetti International, which is based in Chiasso in Switzerland and was created by the two sons of Antonio Bianchi, former owner of the company. The original Albisetti business failedin December 2014 following its failure to turn around the Itierre business it had acquired earlier.

Carven

Carven

 

No details were provided of the intended distribution strategy of the licensed Carven lines.

 

SALINAS: diversifies into fitness wear with Adidas

 

LEADING Brazilian swimwear label Salinas, which is based in Rio de Janeiro, is diversifying into fitness wear in partnership with global sports label Adidas. Salinas designer Jacqueline de Biase has designed for Adidas a collection of workout, fitness and swimming garments that will be available in Brazilian retail stores in November 2015, when it is summer in the Southern hemisphere.

Salinas

Salinas

 

The fitness collection, announced a year before the opening of the Rio de Janeiro Olympic Games, will allow both labels to maximize their benefit from the international event.

 

FLEUR OF ENGLAND: beachwear added to range

 

TO MARK the 15th anniversary of its foundation, British lingerie brand Fleur of England is broadening its product range to include beachwear. To be premiered at the Mode City Paris salon next month for the S/S 2016 season, the new collection includes bikinis, maillots and cover-ups, all in three colourways and designed for mix’n’match. Fleur of England CEO and Creative Director Fleur Turner said: “I have loved every minute of designing this ultimate sports lux swimwear collection. Poolside chic does free spirit surf.”

 

Fleur of England

Fleur of England

Until recently, most new swimwear collections consisted mostly of bikinis. Now that one-piece suits are again winning market share, they have become an essential element of new ranges.

 

HANESBRANDS: past performance recognized

 

BODYWEAR and sportswear giant HanesBrands announced that, for the first time, the group had made its appearance in the Fortune 500 list of the largest companies in the US. Its inclusion at rank 490 follows the 15 per cent sales increase, to USD 5.32bn, recorded in 2014 but it is ranked much higher on other criteria. Among these subsidiary rankings is a 17th place for total return to shareholders and a 20th place for average return to shareholders over five years. Sales and profit growth also exceeded appreciably the average of the 500 companies listed.

 

Bali by HanesBrands

Bali by HanesBrands

Since it was spun off from the Sara Lee group as an independent operation, HanesBrands restructured optimally not only its supply chain but also every aspect of its broad and complex operations, with impressive results.

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DISTRIBUTION: evolution of chains and channels

 

BOUX AVENUE: UK expansion maintained

 

FIRST launched in the UK in 2011, intimate apparel chain Boux Avenue opened its 26th store in a Glasgow shopping centre of June 11. A 27th store is due to open in Belfast, Northern Ireland, later in 2015. Created by hugely successful retail entrepreneur Theo Paphitis, who made an earlier fortune by building up and selling the La Senza chain of franchised stores in the UK, Boux Avenue is likely to achieve significant further growth in the years to come.

 

Boux Avenue

Boux Avenue

The chain distributes its own private label collection and represents a valuable sales target for suppliers of bodywear fabrics.

 

INTIMISSIMI: men’s underwear stores reach Spain

 

THE NETWORK of Intimissimi stores devoted to men’s underwear , which was originally launched in Italy by Calzedonia, was expanded to Spain as the first Intimissimi Uomo store there opened in Barcelona. The 32m2 store complements the more than 150 women’s lingerie stores of Intimissimi in Spain and the eight Intimissimi Uomo stores in Italy. The stores offer men’s loungewear, beachwear and legwear as well as underwear. Calzedonia said that it plans to open up to 30 Intimissimi Uomo stores by the end of 2015 but without defining the countries targeted.

 

Intimissimi Uomo

Intimissimi Uomo

The projected growth of the men’s underwear chain promises to strengthen the trend in favour of fashonable innerwear for men.

 

BILLABONG: significance of brand reaffirmed

 

THE PROBLEMS that afflicted the brand last year appear to have had little impact on the enviable image of Billabong in the field of surfwear. The brand was named for both the men’s and women’s Brand of the Year Award for 2014/15 by the Australina Surf and Broad Sports Industry Association. Billabong also won several of the Association’s awards for sales and marketing. Billabong Brand Manager Mike Savage commented: “It was pleasing to receive recognition across marketing, design, sales and general brand performance, showing the breadth of talent in the entire team. These awards underline Billabong’s on-going connection to the core surfing community it serves and there is no better or more welcome recognition than that of our industry peers.”

 

Billabong

Billabong

The awards suggest that financial problems have little impact on the image of a brand, unless they recur over a extended period.

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PEOPLE: corporate personalities

 

ANDREA CRESPI: to deal with sustainability with SMI

 

THE MANAGING Director of Italian knitter Eurojersey, Andrea Crespi who initiated the company’s important sustainability programme, was appointed to the Board of Sistema Moda Italia (SMI) with special responsibilities for sustainability, research and innovation. Crespi was responsible for the creation and development of the SensitiveEcoSystem® project that promotes sustainable textile production.

 

Andrea Crespi

Andrea Crespi

MARCO GALBUSERA: given more scope by Calzedonia

 

ITALIAN legwear and bodywear giant Calzedonia announced the promotion of Marco Galbusera to the post of retail Manager for Japan, Hong Kong, the UK and USA. Since 2010, Galbusera had been responsible for the brand’s development in Germany jointly with Stefano Organai, who now assumes sole responsibility for that market.

Marco Galbusera

Marco Galbusera

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EXHIBITIONSwhat to see and where to trade

 

INTERFILIERE: 280 exhibitors expected in July 2015

 

DUE TO OPEN on July 4 for three days, the next edition of the Interfilière Paris salon for intimate apparel, swimwear and sportswear production supplies will, for the first time, provide a special overview of innovative performance fabrics for sportswear, activewear and beachwear. It will also stage in collaboration with the Musée National du Sport a special display under the title En Mode Sport that bridges the gap between sportswear and haute couture. The salon, that will feature some 280 exhibitors, will also organize two conferences related to functional garments: the first, at 15hrs on 5 July under the title Seductive and Functional Activewear and the second at 11hrs on July 6 titled Innovative Lingerie: Sport and Medical Focus.

 

Interfilière Paris

Interfilière Paris

These, with many other important features, will strengthen further the trade fair’s dominant status in its specialized field.

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

 

HARASSMENT: female cop wins colour claim

 

RATHER than the colour of her skin, it was the colour of her panties that led a New York policewoman to file a harassment claim against a superior officer. The New York Daily News reported that a local female cop had won a court award of USD 325’000 following her claim that the officer “…would hover around my work station and he would always know what color underwear I had on…and he would just call out a color as he was walking around the chair or as he was walking away from the desk. There was one particular time that he was excited that our color underwear matched and he felt he had to pull his pants down in the office and show me the color of his (light blue) underwear.”

Fruit of the Loom

Fruit of the Loom

 

The event provides a welcome change from the cases of racial discrimination that are often reported.

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