Home | Newsletters | Full Text Week 35-2014

Full Text Week 35-2014

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ISSN 1994-2419

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Issue Week 35-2014


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WITH this issue of the SIBILintimate newsletter, we    launch our new website with a program that provides  more attractive and modern graphics, easier access to available information and a broader range of functions. Among these are provisions for reader comments relating to the site as a whole, or to individual news items. Comments on industry developments that criticize, without being abusive, support or complement our own editorial comments could prove of great value for all professionals in the intimate apparel supply chain. Consequently, we hope that professional readers will not hesitate to make use of this opportunity, bearing in mind that their stated opinions will also have public relations value for their brand or business. We see the new site as the first step towards making SIBILintimate even more valuable for all decision makers in the intimate apparel sector, whether supplier, distributor or provider of related services. 

Jean-Pierre Adeline

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BACKGROUND NEWS – developments to bear in mind

TRENDS: Paris salons styling trends assessed

SWIMWEAR: MarediModa salon reveals 2016 trend proposals

MARKETING: new report covers world lingerie market

USA: value of swimwear market rises appreciably

CANADA: survey of specialist innerwear stores published

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SUPPLIER NEWS – information from the upstream sector

LENZING: new Tencel plant starts up successfully

CHEYNET: restructuring follows move into administration

EUROJERSEY: themes of S/S 2016 collection revealed

RATTI: higher EBIT reported despite lower sales

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands & labels

POMPEA: founders seeking partner to reduce bank debts

SWIMWEAR ANYWHERE: wins Kate Spade swimwear licence

DITA VON TEESE: maternity lingerie collection created

TRIUMPH: full year 2013 results show setbacks

HANESBRANDS: new sales record achieved in Q2

BRITNEY SPEARS: pop singer launches lingerie label

DELTA GALIL: latest guidance predicts sales of over USD 1bn

WOLFORD: second year in the red recorded

NAKED: relocation to New York city signals globalization

SHIBUE COUTURE: new panties concept eliminates VPL

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

AGENT PROVOCATEUR: buyer sought for luxury chain

VICTORIA’S SECRET: gains and setbacks recorded in Europe

BIKINI VILLAGE: chain faces de-listing by Toronto exchange

THIRDLOVE: new bra features memory foam cups

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

CLAUDIO RACCA: promoted to Sales Manager by Parah

FRANCISCO JAVIER CAMPO: joins Board of Cortefiel

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

SWIMSHOW: latest edition drew larger attendance

GALLERIA INTIMA: more brands expected at next edition

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FINISHING TOUCH – The smile for this week

PEACH SKIN: fruit seller puts panties on peaches

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BACKGROUND NEWS – developments to bear in mind

TRENDS: Paris salons styling trends assessed

PUBLISHED just after our last issue went online in July, and supplemented by a second edition later, the most recent reports from specialist bodyfashion consultants Concepts Paris review the trends observed at the latest Mode City and Interfilière salons. Among these, special attention is given to the growing importance of fashion colours in the lingerie field and to the increasing number of lingerie brands that are adding swimwear to their ranges. The reports, which are accessible only by subscribers to the service, carry a rich selection of visual material complemented by explanatory text. Concepts-Paris220 The sharp specialization of the source, backed by in-depth knowledge of the bodywear industry, confers exceptional authority on these and other reports from the consultants.

SWIMWEAR: MarediModa salon reveals 2016 trend proposals

PREPARED by David Shah, publisher, and the fashion team of View magazine, the preview of swimwear trends for S/S 2016 commissioned by the MarediModa swimwear fabric salon was published last month. It presents three swimwear themes and two bodywear themes in terms of fabrics, patterns, colours and silhouette, with an evocative illustration for each theme. Click here to access all texts and images.

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MarediModa Trends

Swimwear manufacturers and designers visiting the salon in November will certainly be influenced to a greater or lesser extent by these trend proposals.

MARKETING: new report covers world lingerie market

UNDER the title Lingerie Global Markets and Trends 2007-2019, online fashion specialists Just Style published a comprehensive survey of the world innerwear scene. 

Part one of this three-part report looks at the lingerie market generally and how it functions, brand and own label pricing and retail market pricing segmentation.

 Part two concentrates on market analysis and forecasts, providing a world and regional summary of data before providing regional details behind the numbers. 

The final part of the report looks at product, fabric, market and retail developments within the lingerie world. Special attention is paid to the Russian and Chinese markets.

Hanes

Hanes

Besides meeting the information needs of innerwear manufacturers, the report also contains information likely to be of value for larger distributors, particularly those that produce private label collections.

USA: value of swimwear market rises appreciably

ACCORDING to a report published by market research concern NPD Group, sales of swimwear in the US rose by 6 per cent in the 12 months to May 2014, to reach USD 4.4bn. Sales of women’s two-piece swimsuits and of cover-ups are found to have risen by 8 per cent and 7 per cent respectively. Thanks to new products that offer health benefits, improved fit, better UV protection, thermal protection and lightweight performance, the positive evolution is expected to be maintained during coming seasons.

Jantzen

Jantzen

In addition to the performance characteristics mentioned in the report, keener consumer awareness of the fashion aspects of swimwear will also help to boost sales. Nevertheless, it is not certain that imported brands will benefit from the predicted future market growth.

CANADA: survey of specialist innerwear stores published

A REPORT covering the Lingerie, Swimwear and Bridal Stores Industry in Canada was published in July by IBISWorld. The report notes that the industry is expected to have grown at an annualized rate of only 0.7 per cent in the five years to 2014 to reach a value of CAD 2.4bn. It adds, however, that the industry is expected to perform much better in the coming five year as per capita disposable income strengthens, allowing more discretionary spending. It also expects the industry to consolidate as specialist retailers win market share from traditional brands.

La Vie en Rose

La Vie en Rose

If traditional brands in the last sentence include private label merchandise sold online by distributors, it would be surprising if physical stores did win a greater market share.

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SUPPLIER NEWS – information from the upstream sector

LENZING: new Tencel plant starts up successfully

LEADING world producer of cellulosic fibres Lenzing announced the successful start-up of its new jumbo facility for producing Tencel fibre. Lenzing COO Friedrich Weninger said that production results of the past weeks gave grounds to believe that the new facility would fulfil all expectations. He added that the company was optimistic about reaching its production target of 30’000 tons by the end of 2014. Thanks to the new facility, Lenzing’s Tencel annual capacity is expected to rise by 65’000 tons to a total of around 220’000 tons. Lenzing220 - copie The growing capacity makes it likely that Tencel will find its way into an ever broader range of end-products, including different items of innerwear.

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CHEYNET: restructuring follows move into administration

FOLLOWING the appointment of an Administrator in July, the leading European supplier of stretch ribbons for the innerwear industry, Cheynet, is to axe its workforce of 300 by up to 50 per cent in order to achieve a 40 per cent reduction of its wage bill. This is intended to allow the company to concentrate on its more viable activities, with more competitive prices for long runs and higher prices for short runs and prototypes. Labour unions are appealing to the government in the hope of minimizing the reduction of the workforce.

Cheynet

Cheynet

Like all its European rivals, as well as lace, embroidery and other fabric producers, the company is suffering from competition by Asian mills, many of which merely produce copies of designs sampled by brands and private labels from European companies. Until an effective means of preventing such design theft can be found, many suppliers of creative products will continue to struggle for survival.

EUROJERSEY: themes of S/S 2016 collection revealed

THE ITALIAN knitter that produces Sensitive® fabrics, Eurojersey, revealed the themes of its S/S 2016 collection, all inspired by the colours of nature and its infinite vibrations. The versatility of Sensitive fabrics, with their infinite range of colours and ultraflat surfaces creates new vistas and horizons inspired by six moods of the moment: Primitive Energy, Bioluminscent, Mash Up, Spontaneous, Flower Power and Pulsing. Eurojersey220 Manufacturers who missed seeing the collection at the Paris Interfilière can catch up on developments at the MarediModa salon in Cannes.

RATTI: higher EBIT reported despite lower sales

PRESTIGIOUS  Italian fabric mill Ratti, that proposes a swimwear fabric collection alongside its range of woven silk fabrics, declared first half sales down by 1.8 per cent against the same period a year earlier, to EUR 48.7m. In contrast, cost reduction measures boosted EBIT by 27 per cent to EUR 1.9m and net profit by 40 per cent to EUR 1m. During the period, investments rose by EUR 1.4m to EUR 3.5m.

Ratti

Ratti

The advance achieved provides further evidence of the effectiveness of the measures taken by the new management.

 

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THE APPAREL SCENE – news of brands and labels

POMPEA: founders seeking partner to reduce bank debts WITH bank debts of around EUR 50m, according to Italian business daily Il Sole 24 Ore, the Pompea group appointed investment bank Equita SIM to find a partner. The group, one of the largest in Italy producing legwear, innerwear, swimwear and sleepwear, generated sales of EUR 80m last year and hopes to sell 51 per cent of its equity to a partner that presents a convincing business plan. Several leading Italian industrial concerns as well as turnaround specialists in the financial community are said to have shown interest.

Pompea

Pompea

The group also has partnerships with several producers in other countries so that its future will have some international repercussions.

SWIMWEAR ANYWHERE: wins Kate Spade swimwear licence

AMERICAN accessories and fashionwear designer brand Kate Spade New York, a subsidiary of Fifth & Pacific, licensed Swimwear Anywhere to produce and market a swimwear collection under its label. The new collection, which is to reach retailers for the coming season, comprises some 70 pieces including 12 1-piece designs and 52 separate pieces that can be mixed and matched. Each will carry the knot emblem associated with the label.

Coco Reef by Swimwear anywhere

Coco Reef by Swimwear anywhere

The new licensee operates the swimwear licence of several other fashion designer labels, including Michael Kors and Tommy Hilfiger among others, and its experience in this field promises to prove highly valuable for Kate Spade.

DITA VON TEESE: maternity lingerie collection created

FORMER stripper now turned designer Dita Von Teese has created a maternity lingerie collection in partnership with US specialist distributor Destination Maternity. Von Teese said the collection is designed to capture the spirit of retro glamour while inspiring confidence and meeting the needs of new mothers. All nursing bras feature detachable cups and clip-down tabs and a discreet control panel is inserted in all bottoms to provide flattering support.

Dita Von Teese + Destination Maternity

Dita Von Teese + Destination Maternity

With nearly 2000 retail outlets in the US, Destination Maternity is well placed to provide extensive consumer exposure to the new collection.

TRIUMPH: full year 2013 results show setbacks

MAJOR European intimate apparel label Triumph International cited a slump in European consumer demand for lingerie as the reason for a CHF 0.2bn sales decline in 2013, when its turnover slid to CHF 1.9bn. Investments during the period crashed to the CHF equivalent of EUR 60.7m from EUR 152.2m in 2012. The workforce also shrank appreciably, by 3’470 to 33’100 as a result of two factory closures, in China and Austria. During the current year, Triumph plans to sharpen the profile of its brands, develop a new retail concept and invest more in promotion.

Triumph

Triumph

Despite the 2013 setback, the company’s brands remain strong and its capacity to retain its leading position when consumption revives is beyond doubt.

HANESBRANDS: new sales record achieved in Q2

INTEGRATION of the Maidenform brand, tighter cost controls and improved supply chain efficiency were some of the reasons cited by HanesBrands for the record sales of USD 1.34bn achieved in its second quarter, up by 12 per cent against a year earlier. As a result, adjusted operating profit rose by 27 per cent to USD 231m. The strong quarter prompted the company to raise full year adjusted EPS guidance by 40 cents to a range of USD 5.20/5.40, as net sales are predicted to exceed the USD 5bn mark.

Playtex by HanesBrands

Playtex by HanesBrands

Considerable further sales progress can be expected when the recent acquisition of DBApparel begins to make its impact on results.

BRITNEY SPEARS: pop singer launches lingerie label

IN COLLABORATION with Danish lingerie chain Change of Scandinavia, that will distribute the range in Europe, pop singer Britney Spears is preparing to launch a lingerie collection under the label The Intimate Britney Spears. In Europe, the collection will launch on September 9 and in the US on September 26. The singer said her intention was to create garments that are at the same time sexy, luxurious and comfortable. A preview photo of a model from the collection was published on a social network and generated nearly 200’000 “likes” during a single night.

Britney Spears

Britney Spears

Indications are that the new collection will win an appreciable sales volume from existing brands and private labels.

DELTA GALIL: latest guidance predicts sales of over USD 1bn

FORMER private label production specialist Delta Galil, that now operates its own brands following acquisitions, declared first half results that showed a 6 per cent rise in sales, to USD 487m, which boosted operating profit by 19 per cent to USD 30.4m. Revised full year guidance now predicts sales in excess of USD 1bn and net profit up by at least 13 per cent to a range of USD 50/55m. CEO Isaac Dabah revealed that the USD 1bn milestone for sales had already been reached in the 12 months to June 30 and confirmed that the company’s diversification into brand marketing had made an important contribution to recent growth.

Delta Galil

Delta Galil

In terms of sales, the company is rapidly catching up with the largest European concerns in the field of bodywear and seems set to become one of the most important players in the field outside the US.

WOLFORD: second year in the red recorded

FOR THE second year in succession, prestigious Austrian legwear and bodywear label Wolford reported negative results for its 2013/14 fiscal year. Sales declined by 0.4 per cent in 2013, to EUR 155.87m, as wholesale business slumped by 8 per cent although retail stores (+5 per cent) and e-tailing (+23 per cent) continued to prove viable. Net results showed a loss of EUR 2.81m after one-off restructuring costs of EUR 3.76m. Wolford CFO Thomas Melzer said that he was confident that an operating turnaround would be achieved during the current year.

Wolford

Wolford

The disappointing performance of the past two years casts doubts on the widespread belief that luxury merchandise is largely invulnerable to economic conditions.

NAKED: relocation to New York city signals globalization

BASED in Vancouver since its foundation, men’s underwear label Naked Brand Group announced that it is relocating its headquarters to New York City and will close its Canadian office within the next few months. President and founder Joel Primus told the press that the move is a big statement that the brand is beginning to realize its global ambitions. He added that New York is really the centre of the world in terms of fashion. Two years ago, the company opened a logistics centre in Los Angeles and it is now preparing to add women’s underwear to its range.

Naked

Naked

If it can maintain its past growth over the coming years, and it seems likely to do so, the company could well become a major player on the underwear world scene.  

SHIBUE COUTURE: new panties concept eliminates VPL THE PROMOTIONAL effort of Shibue Couture to boost sales of its strapless and self-supporting knickers focuses on the product’s ability to prevent Visible Panty Line (VPL). The product is held in place by washable and re-usable silicone gel pads at the front and back and is said to have been adopted by some top models and other personalities in New York.

Shibue

Shibue

The marketing approach appears to ignore the fact that many other brands of panties also claim, with some justification, to prevent or minimize VPL, notably by using selvedge fabrics or seamless technology. Nor is the principle new: a comparable bikini bottom, using a spring wire frame rather than silicone pads, was launched by a Dutch swimwear designer back in the ’80s but failed to win consumer approval.

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DISTRIBUTION – evolution of chains and channels

AGENT PROVOCATEUR: buyer sought for luxury chain

PRIVATE equity concern 3i Group, that now owns the Agent Provocateur luxury erotic lingerie chain, appointed bankers Goldman Sachs to lead the search for a buyer of the business it acquired in 2007. The company, that expects to close its 2013/14 fiscal year with an EBITDA of GBP 9m on sales of GBP 53m, operates 91 owned or franchised stores in 29 countries. According to the UK press, it could fetch around GBP 200m.

Agent Provocateur

Agent Provocateur

The current owner has done an excellent job of growing the company and it will be interesting to see whether a buyer can maintain both the rate of expansion and the profitability.

VICTORIA’S SECRET: gains and setbacks recorded in Europe

A POSITIVE development in Europe for the Victoria’s Secret lingerie chain was the opening of its first stores in Spain. These are concessions in luxury stores located in two terminals of Barcelona airport. In the UK, however, the chain failed in its attempt to counter the claim made by London shirt maker Thomas Pink, which is part of the LVMH luxury group, to exclusive use in EU countries of the Pink brand. A High Court judge in London ruled that consumers in Europe might associate Thomas Pink with underwear, which would cause a “detriment to the repute” of its brand.

Victoria's Secret

Victoria’s Secret

The trade mark judgement, which prevents the lingerie chain from operating Pink stores in the UK, also poses problems for the use of the Pink label anywhere in the EU.

BIKINI VILLAGE: chain faces de-listing by Toronto exchange

BECAUSE the Canadian swimwear chain no longer conforms to the requirements of the Toronto Stock Exchange, Bikini Village could be de-listed. The recently appointed new Chairman of the Board, Jocelyn Dumas, told the local press that going private was one of the several options being considered to start a turnaround following the CAD 6.4m loss recorded in the chain’s last fiscal year. Since 2008, Bikini Village equity has lost 95 per cent of its value, which now stands at CAD 1.28m. Bikini-Village220 It is certain that the chain’s suppliers of branded merchandise are watching developments with sustained attention.

THIRDLOVE: new bra features memory foam cups

DESCRIBED by e-tailer ThirdLove as a revolutionary 24/7 Memory Foam T-shirt bra, its latest product also features TrueForm fabric to ensure perfect fit throughout the day. Besides the thin and lightweight supportive memory foam cups, other details of the bra that was launched last month include luxury pleated straps, gold strap adjusters, padded hook closure and a tagless printed label, all serving to provide comfort through the day. Cup sizes range from A to F and the bra is priced at USD 55.

ThirdLove

ThirdLove

The new bra promises to make an appreciable contribution to the further growth of online sales of intimate apparel in general and of the e-tailer in particular.

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PEOPLE – corporate personalities

CLAUDIO RACCA: promoted to Sales Manager by Parah ITALIAN swimwear and lingerie brand Parah announced the promotion of Claudio Racca (42) to the post of group Sales Manager. Racca, who had joined Parah in 2008 as sales manager for Italy, has more than 20 years experience of sales in the intimate apparel sector.

Claudio Racca

Claudio Racca

FRANCISCO JAVIER CAMPO: joins Board of Cortefiel SPANISH distribution giant Grupo Cortefiel, that operates the Women’Secret lingerie chain among others, announced the appointment of Francisco Javier Campo as non-executive Chairman of the Board. Mr Campo is Chairman of a major trade association in Spain as well as of the Zena concern that operates several restaurant chains.

Francisco Javier Campo

Francisco Javier Campo

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EXHIBITIONS – what to see and where to trade

SWIMSHOW: latest edition drew larger attendance

WITH nearly 10’000 visitors from 60 countries attending its latest edition, from 19 to 22 July in Miami, the Swimshow salon reported higher attendance than in the past. The organizers believe that the larger exhibition area, that was expanded by over 30 per cent to exceed 37’000m2, and the presence of many new exhibitors, played a major role in boosting attendance.

SwimShow

SwimShow

Were it not staged at the same time as the Mercedes Benz swimwear fashion event in Miami, which generates many hotel showroom sales contacts, attendance might well be appreciably higher.

GALLERIA INTIMA: more brands expected at next edition

DUE TO take place in the Grand Hyatt in Goa on August 18 and 19, the next edition of Galeria Intima is expected to attract intimate apparel and legwear production supplies purchasing executives representing over 600 global brands. According to advance registration records, the salon will be well attended also by product managers of e-tailers and other distributors of private label collections.

Galleria Intima

Galleria Intima

Now preparing its third edition, the Indian salon for intimate apparel production supplies has become an integral part of the national industry scene and continues to grow in importance.

 

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FINISHING TOUCH – the smile for this week

PEACH SKIN: fruit seller puts panties on peaches BECAUSE peaches reminded him of ladies’ bottoms, he says, a Chinese fruit grower and retailer decided to have peach-size panties made by a lingerie firm and put them on his peaches. Now, he reports that consumer demand has been so strong, despite a very high price, that he cannot grow enough of the fruit.

Peaches-in-knickers220 We wonder how long it will take before another fruit seller starts to offer grapefruit in bras, hoping to double his sales volume.

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